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Meermowe's Great Adventure

Meermowe's Great Adventure

Category Archives: TRAVEL BLOG

CVIT MEDITERANA – II DIO

06 Thursday Aug 2015

Posted by Jasmine in Hrvatski, TRAVEL BLOG

≈ Leave a comment

DSC03377Bilo je dva i trideset, tog popodneva, kad smo stigli na aerodrom. Avion Air Srbije, iz Beograda, sletio je na vrijeme. U trenutku izlaska iz aviona, usprkos gužvi na terasi aerodromske zgrade, uspijela sam napraviti nekoliko snimaka naših prijatelja. Susret u Splitu, a tokom našeg putovanja i na Karibima, sa Mikijem, Vericom i Stephany, planiran je dvije godine prije, kad smo kupili brod, odlučili da plovimo svijetom i doplovimo do Australije.

Vrlo sličnim životnim iskustvom u Novom Zelandu, naš međusobni odnos i druženje razvili su se se u jedno divno prijateljstvo, pa čak mogu reći i više od toga, osijećamo se kao porodica.

DSC03380Miki voli more, a i sam posjeduje lijep motorni brod u Aucklandu, gdje vrlo često odlazi u ribolov i vrača se sa vrlo dobrim ulovom. Verica voli ploviti ali veći kruzeri joj ulijevaju više povjerenja i sigurnosti, stoga je ovaj susret očekivala sa velikim očima i uzbuđenjem. Stephany je lijepa djevojka bez predrasuda, svakoj situaciji se prilagodi i ne boji se niceg osim pčela pred kojima daje petama vjetra kao slon kad vidi malog miša.

Uzbuđenju susreta pridonijela je i Mimi koja je sletila sa našim prijateljima kako bi upoznala Dina i Pipa te provela nezaboravno vrijeme družeći se sa njima. Mimi ima bogato turističko iskustvo i vjeran je pratioc Mikija, Verice i Stephany na svakom njihovom putovanju, već petnaest godina. Nedavno, puna utisaka, vratila se sa krstarenja po Havajima. Dino i Pipo su bili toliko uzbuđeni da su se spoticali jedan o drugog u takmičenju tko ce bolje i vise osvojiti njezino srce.

DSC03387Bilo je blizu četiri sata kad smo stigli na brod. Vručina je bila šokantna a temperatura zraka veoma visoka. Vjetra nije bilo, sto je otežavalo duži boravak u brodu. Doimalo se da marina gori. Dok su Miki i Peter tražili spas u hladnom piću, ja sam pomagala Verici i Stephany da se što prije smijeste u kabine.

GRADSKA KAVANA SPLITKasno popodne odlučili smo da bijeg iz ovog pakla potražimo odlaskom u grad. Pošto naši prijatelji nikad nisu bili u Splitu, nastojali smo ih provesti kroz najstarije I najatraktivnije dijelove starog grada, Dioklecijanove Palače.

Večerali smo u popularnoj, staroj Gradskoj Kavani “Central”, otvorenoj 1780. godine , na pijaci. Sjedili smo za isim onim stolom za kojim je “Dotur Vice” sidija svake večeri u popularnoj seriji “Velo Misto”, snimljenoj u Splitu, što je davalo posebnu čar I užitak. Slijedio je nezaobilazan sladoled, a potom smo se spustili na rivu.

DSC03397Ugledavši more, Stephany je dobila neodoljivu želju za kupanjem u toj toploj splitskoj noći pa smo preko rive, krenuli prema plaži Zvončac. U Marini Labud, odmah pored Zvončaca, nalazi se restoran u kojeg smo nekada, moj suprug i ja, u hladnim zimskim noćima, znali došetati na topli čaj sa rumom. Čaj je bio serviran u divnim visokim čašama čijom smo toplinom grijali promrzle prste.

plaza zvoncacStephanino kupanje se odužilo do deset sati navečer nakon cega smo morali žuriti natrag kroz grad kako bi uhvatili zadnji autobus za Kaštela.

Izbjegavajući veliku vručinu, već slijedećeg jutra u ranim jutarnjim satima, krenuli smo u Split na tržnicu kupiti sve što nam treba za brod. Peter ne uživa u velikom kupovanju, osim ako bas mora. Kako bi se oslobodio te napasti, uporno je tražio najbliži restoran kako bi popio kafu. Dok smo Verica i ja gledali da nešto ne zaboravimo, Miki je vukao za sobom tešku putnu torbu punu krumpira, voća, kruha i na kraju veliku lubenicu. Dok smo došli na brod osijećao je da su mu se ruke produžile.

DSC03413Glavna splitska tržnica, oaza šarenila u centru Splita, u ljetnom periodu vrvi starima i mladima te znatiželjnim turistima koji su oduševljeni izgledom i tradicijonalnim pristupom, vec od ranog jutra. Na Pazaru je moguće pronaći gotovo sve: od cvijeća, voća, povrća, sireva, mesa, do cipela, igračaka i suvenira. Zazivanje kupaca i cijenkanje, sve je to dio culture ove nadaleko poznate tržnice.  Na kraju, torbi punih ruku pridružili smo se Peteru u restoranu na kraju tržnice, koji je čuvao stol za nas.

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Tog popodneva isplovili smo u Nečujam na Otoku Šolta. Vjetar je bio pogodan za jedrenje. Verica je na obostrano iznenađenje uživala na pramcu broda bez znakova zabrinutosti i straha, dok je Stephany textirala poruke svojim prijateljima u Novi Zeland.

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Kupanje i uzivanje koje nam je pružala uvala te večeri, bili su kao neka nagrada za umor i znoj kojim smo bili obliveni vukući hranu. Uz top raspoloženje, smijeh i veselje, pripremili smo našu prvu zajedničku večeru i to sve zalili šampanjcem.  Noćno pecanje nije urodilo plodom pa smo svi skupa išli na spavanje.

Dino i Pipo su očito uživali u drustvu sa Mimi, nigdje ih nije bilo za vidjeti. Cijeli dan su obilazili brod objašnjavajući Mimi kako se jedri i upravlja brodom.

DSC03493Pripremljen je i koktel parti u ime dobrodošlice u Meermowe’s Great Adventure.  Na Solti smo proveli dva dana. Duge šetnje uz more, skakanje, kupanje i ronjenje ostali su iza nas kao nezaboravni trenuci našeg druženja.

mapa hvaraNasa slijedeća destinacija je bio Hvar, najsunčaniji otok u Jadranskom Moru i jedan od deset najljepših otoka na svijetu. Razvedena obala, brojne slikovite i kristalno čiste plaže, obilje sunca, netaknuta priroda, mirisi lavande, maslina i vina, razlozi su zbog kojih smo odlučili dovesti naše prijatelje ovde. Vručina i mirno vrijeme primorali su nas, uz jedra koristiti i motor.

uvala tihaU Uvalu Tiha pristali smo u ranim popodnevnim satima. Tiha na Otoku Hvaru, sastoji se od sedam uvala i omiljeno je sidrište nautičara. Udaljena je od Starog Grada 8 km, stoga smo rano ujutro, odlučili pješačiti do grada. Stephany smo ostavili na brodu da spava, pošto su joj kompjuterski čipovi prihvatljiviji od 16 km pješačenja po suncu na temperaturi od 35*C. Put je startao iz susjedne uvale u koju smo se morali prebaciti pomoćnim čamcem.

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Vežuci brodić za malo molo počeli smo se penjati uz brdo preko privatnog imanja sve do glavne prašnjave ceste.   Sa vijugavog puta pružali su se divni vidici na more i prelijepe uvale sa obe strane obale. Idealno mjesto za nas zaljubljene.

DSC03272Uživali smo komentirajući imena uvala, u smijehu do suza i šalama dok se sunce dizalo sve više, a uzbrdice i nizbrdice ostajale za nama. Nismo ni primjećivali da nigdje hlada nema. Sat i trideset minuta nam je trebalo da stignemo do centra. Stari Grad je povijesno srce Otoka Hvara i najstariji je grad u Hrvatskoj, Aristotelov vršnjak. Iste te godine, 384. prije Krista, kada se u Trakiji rodio ovaj znameniti grčki filozof, Grci s Otoka Parosa, u Egejskom moru, utemeljili su grad na otoku Hvaru, koji su nazvali Faros.

DSC03459Samo naselje smješteno je u borovoj šumi, stotinjak metara od gradskog kupališta Lanterna. Stari Grad je u vrućim ljetnim danima rijetko dalmatinsko mjesto u kojem je zrak osvježavajuć, a san okrepljujuć. U starom dijelu grada još uvijek je sačuvana tradicionalna arhitektura i kao takav je od iznimne turističke vrijednosti. Idealno je mjesto za duge šetnje i izlete. Obiluje konobama i restoranima sa zdravom domaćom hranom i tradicionalno dobrim vinima.

DSC03453Svi smo skupa bili impresionirani ovim simpatićnim mjestom. Kako bi se malo odmorili i došli sebi, odlučili smo sijesti u kafić da se osladimo kolačima i sladoledom, popijemo kafu i 3 litre vode. Mikijeva želja za krempitama djelovala je neostvariva, kad je konobar rekao da su krempite upravo napravljene, stavljene u frižider i nisu spremne za serviranje. Ne znajući kakvo ga iznenađenje očekuje, žalosno je naručio milk-šeik. Kako je vlasnik kafića pravi borac za svog gosta, sto je u Hrvatskoj rijetkost, izdvojio je jednu krempitu i stavio u zamrzivač da se turbo ohladi. Bili smo pred samim odlaskom i na našu molbu da nam naplati, upitao je Mikija, da li bi možda želio još nešto, dobio je tužan i šaljiv odgovor “ da želim krempitu ali se hladi u frižideru” nakon čega je krempita iskočila iz zamrzivača i sletila pred njega na stol. Wow, “jebote, on stvarno donio krempitu, a ja se šalio” bio je spontan Mikijev komentar. Tako je neočekivano uživao šeik i krempitu.

DSC03463Uz sva upozorenja da se ništa ne kupuje, pošto pješačimo, ipak smo ušli u trgovinu kupiti samo “dvije stvari”, “neophodne za brod”. Izašli smo, naravno, sa nekoliko kesa, koje smo , uglavnom, po službenoj dužnosti, u ruksacima teglili Miki i ja. Bilo je vrijeme ručka kad smo se vračali natrag na brod. Sunce je već bilo u zenitu i sve nam je bilo teže nego prije. Osam kilometara je stajalo pred nama, kao beskrajni crveni tepih, i sve ono što nismo primjećivali prije vidjeli smo u duplo.

DSC03465Izgledali smo kao nomadi, samo su nam još deve nedostajale. Sporo smo napredovali i nismo mogli pješačiti više od komedije i smijeha nego od sunca i vručine. Sva sreća što Stephany nije bila sa nama. Zasigurno ne bi imala vremena ni snage upotrebljavati kompić. Verica je počela polako skidati sve sa sebe dok nije ostala u kupačem kostimu. Osijecala se umorna i gladna pa je Miki svaki čas morao stajati kako bi otkinula komad kruha iz njegove torbe. Kad smo stigli na molo, Peter i ja smo uzeli sve stvari i brodićem se sami odvezli na   brod s namjerom da ga prebacimo u tu uvalu.

DSC03474Miki i Verica su ostali da se hlade u moru. Stephany se odavno ustala, ležala je i uzivala na krmi broda.

DSC03515Za to vrijeme Dino, Pipo i Mimi su krstarili uvalom uživajući u hladovini kišobrana u predivnom ambijentu kojeg im je pružala Tiha. Mimi je bila zanesena Dinovom izvedbom pjesme “O Sole mio”, ne primjecujuci cijeli roj osa koji ih je pratio.

Za ručkom, smijehu nije bilo kraja. Uvalu Tiha napustili smo prije nego sto smo planirali zbog

DSC03175velike navale muha i osa od kojih smo jedva ostali živi. Vrijeme boravka naših prijatelja na brodu bližilo se kraju. Nismo imali dovoljno

vremena da plovimo na veće udaljenosti, stoga smo na kratko posjetili Grad Hvar i vratili se ponovno na Šoltu.

DSC03444Preostala dva dana potrošili smo u kupanju, šetnjama i pečenju kolača. Noć prije napuštanja Splita večerali smo u restoranu u marini uživajući u ribljim specijalitetima i dalmatinskoj blitvi.

Bilo je kratko ali slatko. U tako brzom ritmu zavrsilo se još jedno druženje uz puno divnih trenutaka, daleko vise nego sto može stati u ovaj post.

DSC03405Miki je zavolio jedrenje i svidja mu se razmišljati o ideji da proda svoj motorni brod i kupi jedrilicu kojom bi nas cetvero iz Evrope doplovili do Novog Zelanda. Prije nego san postane java mora smisliti kako da ubijedi Vericu u svoju ideju. Dosao je i dan njihovog odlaska. Oprostivši se od Mikija, Verice, Stephany i Mimi, ostali smo tužni na cesti gledajući u njihova leđa i taxi koji se gubio u daljini, dok nije zamakao iza ugla.

 

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FLOWER OF THE MEDITERRANEAN – PART II

06 Thursday Aug 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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DSC03377It was two thirty in the afternoon, when we arrived at the airport. Flight Air Serbia, from Belgrade, landed on time. At the moment of leaving the aircraft, despite the crowd on the terrace of the airport building, I managed to get some shots of our friends. The meeting in Split, and during our trip on the Caribbean, with Miki, Verica and Stephany, planned two years ago, when we bought the boat and decided to sail around the world to Australia.

Very similar life experience in New Zealand, our relationship have developed into a wonderful friendship, and even I can say more than that, we feel like family.

DSC03380Miki loves the sea, and he also own a nice motorboat in Auckland, where very often, goes fishing and comes back with a very good catch. Verica likes to sail, but larger cruisers inspire her and give more confidence and security, therefore, this meeting she expected with big eyes and excitement. Stephany is a pretty girl without prejudice, every situation adjust and not afraid of anything except bees facing in tow, like an elephant when he see a small mouse.

Excitement of the meeting contributed to the Mimi, who landed with our friends to meet Dino and Pipo and spent an unforgettable time hanging out with them. Mimi has a wealth of travel experience, and is a faithful companion of Miki, Verica and Stephany on each of their journey, for fifteen years. Recently, full of impressions, she returned from the cruise by Hawaii. Dino and Pipo were so excited to have stumbled into each other in the competition who will be better and more to win her heart.

DSC03389It was nearly four o’clock when we arrived at the ship. The heat was shocking and the temperature very high. There was no wind, which made it difficult to stay longer in the boat. It seemed that a marina is in the fire. While Mickey and Peter were refreshing with a cold drink, I helped Verica and Spephany to immediately unpack and settle in the cabin.

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Late in he afternoon we decided to escape from this hell, we looked to go into town. Since our friends have never been in Split, we have tried to show them the oldest and most attractive parts of the old city, the Diocletian’s Palace.

DSC03397We had dinner in a popular, old City Cafe “Central”, opened in 1780, on the square. We sat at the very same table where the “Doctor Vice” was sitting every night, in the popular series “Velo Misto”, recorded in Split, which gave a special charm and delight. He followed the inevitable ice cream, and then we went down to the waterfront.

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Seeing the sea, Stephany has received overwhelming desire to swim in the warm night in Split and we are across the waterfront, headed toward the beach Zvončac. In Marina Labud, next to Zvončac, there is a restaurant in which we used to, my husband and I, in the cold winter nights, we knew came and drank hot tea with rum. Tea was served in beautiful tall glasses whose heat we heated frozen fingers.

plaza zvoncacStephanie’s swimming extended to ten o’clock in the evening after which we had to rush back through the city to catch the last bus to Kastela.

Avoiding the heat, early in the morning, we went to Split to the market to buy everything we need for a boat. Peter does not enjoy the great shopping, unless he really must. In order to avoid that obligation, he was tried to find the nearest restaurant to drink coffee. While we, Verica and I saw that something’s not forget, Miki was dragged behind a heavy suitcase full of potatoes, fruit, bread, and at the end of a large watermelon. After all, he was feeling as if his hands extended to the knees.

DSC03413The main split market, colorful oasis in the center of Split, in the summer, teeming of the elderly, the young and curious tourists who are enthusiastic with traditional look and approach of sellers, from early morning. On the market, it is possible to find almost everything from flowers, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and meats, to shoes, toys and souvenirs. The invocation of customers and negotiate, it is all part of culture of this famous market. Finally, a bag full of hand we joined Peter in the restaurant at the end of the market, which has kept a table for us.

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That afternoon we sailed in Nečujam on the Island of Solta. The wind was good for sailing. Verica was a surprise to both sides enjoyed the bow of the ship with no signs of anxiety and fear, while Stephany has texted messages to her friends in New Zealand.

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Swimming and enjoying that we provided a bay that night, were as a reward for the fatigue and sweat that we were covered in pulling the food. With top mood, laughter and joy, we have our first dinner together and it all we poured with champagne. Night fishing did not work and we have all gone to sleep.

DSC03516Dino and Pipo were obviously enjoyed the company of Mimi, anywhere there was none to be seen. All day they circled around the ship, explaining Mimi how to sail and drives the boat. Also, they prepared a cocktail party on behalf of welcome to Meermowe’s Great Adventure. On Šolta we spent two days. Long walks along the sea, jumping, swimming and diving remained behind as the unforgettable moments of our association.

DSC03174Our next destination was Hvar, the sunniest island in the Adriatic Sea and one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world. Indented coast, numerous picturesque and crystal clean beaches, plenty of sun, untouched nature, smell of lavender, olives and wine, are the reasons why we decided to bring our friends here. Heat and calm weather forced us, along with sails and engine use.

In the Bay Tiha we sailed in the early afternoon. Tihuvala tihaa consists of seven bays and it is a favorite anchorage for boaters. It is far for 8 km from the Stari Grad, so we decided early in the morning to walk to the town. We left Stephany on board to sleep, because her computer chips are more acceptable than 16 kilometers of walking in the sun at a temperature of 35 * C. The road was started from the next bay in which we had to switch with a dinghy. By tying a boat to a little pier, we started to climb up the hill on private property to the main dirt road.

DSC03447On the winding road, it spread the wonderful views of the sea and beautiful bays on both sides of the coast. It was an ideal place for us in love.

We enjoyed commenting on the names of the bays, the laughter to tears and jokes, until the sun rose higher, and uphill and downhill remained behind us. We did not even notice that nowhere no shade.

DSC03459An hour and thirty minutes it took us to get to the center. Stari Grad is the historical heart of the island of Hvar is the oldest city in Croatia. That same year, 384 BC, when it was born in Trakia the famous Greek philosopher, Aristotel, Greeks from the island of Paros in the Aegean Sea, founded the city on the Island of Hvar, and named it Pharos. The settlement is situated in a pine forest, some hundred meters from the beach Lanterna. The Stari Grad is in the hot summer days the rare Dalmatian place where the air is fresh and invigorating sleep. In the old town is still preserved traditional architecture and as such is of great touristic value. It is an ideal place for long walks and excursions. Abounds with taverns and restaurants with domestic food and traditionally good wines.

DSC03453All together this charming town impressed us. To take a break and come to our self, we entered in a cafe to sweeten with cakes and ice cream, to have a cup of coffee and drink three liters of water. Miki’s desire for a cream cake looked unfeasible when the waiter said that the cream cakes have just been made, he put it in the fridge and its not ready to be served. Not knowing what it expected a surprise, sadly ordered milk-sheik. How is the owner of the cafe a real fighter for his guest, which is rare in Croatia, has isolated one cream cake and put in the freezer to cool the turbo. We just were about leaving and at our request to make a payment, he asked Miki, does he might want something else, it was sad and humorous response, “I want a cream cake but they are on cooling down in the fridge,” whereupon the cream cake jumped out of the freezer and landed in the front of him on the table. Wow, “fuck, he really brought a cream cake, and I was just kidding” was spontaneous Miki’s comment. So, he unexpectedly enjoyed sheik and cream cake.

DSC03463With all the warnings we cannot buy anything, as we walk, we still went into the store to buy only “two things”, “necessary for the ship.” We went out, of course, with a few bags, which we mainly in backpacks, dragged Miki and myself. It was lunchtime when we returned back to the ship. The sun was at its zenith and it was harder than before.

Eight kilometers was standing in front of us, like an endless red carpet, and everything that we didn’t notice before, we saw the double after.

DSC03465We looked like nomads, yet we only camels missing. Slow progress we have made and we could not walk more than a comedy and laughter than from the sun and heat. Good thing, Stephany was not with us. Surely she could not have the time or the strength to use iPhone. Verica has started to slowly take off her clothes until she wasn’t left in a swimsuit. She was feeling tired and hungry, bread from Miki’s bags has never been sweeter. When we arrived at the pier, Peter and I took all the stuff and rode to the boat with the intention of moving him into the bay. During this time, Mickey and Verica were cooling in the sea. Stephany has long been stood up, and enjoyed the boat.

DSC03515Meanwhile, Dino, Pipo and Mimi have cruised the bay enjoying the shade of umbrella in the beautiful surrounding which gave them Tiha. Mimi was impressed with Dino’s song “O Sole Mio”, not noticing the whole swarm of wasps that followed them.

For lunch, laughter there was no end. Tiha bay we left before we had planned because of the great rush of flies and wasps of which we have barely survived.

DSC03472The days passed and our friends stay on the boat drew to a close. We did not have enough time to sail over long distances, so we briefly visited the town of Hvar and back again on the Island of Solta. The remaining two days we spent in swimming, walking and baking cakes. The night before leaving Split, we had dinner in a restaurant in the marina enjoying the seafood specialties and Dalmatian’s chard.

It was short but sweet. In such a fast pace ended our relationship with many wonderful moments, far more than you can fit into this post. Miki loved sailing and he likes to think about the idea to sell his motorboat and buy a sailboat and four of us should sail from Europe to New Zealand. Before the dream becomes reality, he must find out how to convince Verica in his idea.

DSC03405On the day of their departure, we said goodbye to Mickey, Verica, Stephany and Mimi. We were sad on the road, looking at their backs and taxi that are increasingly moving away until he disappeared behind the corner.

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CVIT MEDITERANA – I DIO

29 Wednesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in Hrvatski, TRAVEL BLOG

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Ta stara slika Dioklecijanove Palače, gužva i vreva na splitskoj rivi u ovo doba godine, dočekali su nas, kasno tog popodneva, kad smo uplovili u splitsku luku kako bi natočili gorivo.  Pošto smo planirali malo duži boravak na ovom području, odlucili smo se

marina kastelasmjestiti u Marinu Kaštela u neposrednoj blizini Splita. Dok je Peter, po pristajanju na molo, riješavao administrativne poslove sa recepcijom marine, ja sam ribala palubu i čistila brod. Uz večeru u obližnjem restoranu, napravili smo listu poslova i obaveza koje su se trebale napraviti tokom slijedećih deset dana kada smo planirali ugostiti na brod naše drage prijatelje iz Novog Zelanda.

Kako smo već imali dva problema na brodu, njih smo stavili na sam vrh naše Liste. Već slijedećeg jutra moj suprug je bio u potrazi za majstorom da popravi vinč, dok sam ja, hvatajući autobus, odnijela zahodsku pumpu na servisiranje u Split. “Tko rano rani dvije sreće grabi”, kaže stara poslovica, iako je to jutro izgledalo više kao “Tko rano rani, taj se ne naspava”. Već od rane zore, ljetna žega i visoke temperature, kao i kompletna situacija oko popravke dijelova, nisu obečavali puno.

Marina servisi su naprosto bili “preplavljeni” poslom i ljenošću servisera, tako kad smo se mi pojavili sa našim problemima djelovalo je da smo svima višak.  Sve je išlo polako, uz dugo čekanje i sličilo je na pravu komu, stoga smo moj suprug i ja, ne gubeći vrijeme i živce, koristili situaciju za riješavanje drugih obaveza.

solasPotvrda o ispravnosti splavi za spašavanje, koju smo imali na brodu, bila je slijedeća važna stvar koju smo morali napraviti u kompaniji Antipiros u Splitu.

Tog popodneva dosao je kombi da preuzme splav. Kad smo rekli da plovimo do Australije odmah nam je rečeno da sa postojećom splavi ne možemo isploviti niti do Brača a kamoli do Australije. Naime, radilo se o staroj splavi kategorije “C” a mi moramo imati na brodu veliku prekooceansku splav za 10-12 osoba kategorije “A”. Kao poliveni hladnim tušem, Peter i ja smo se pogledali i stali smijati. Nismo imali što reći. Kupnjom nove splavi za spašavanje stavili smo tačku na priču sa sretnim završetkom.

IMG_0494

Narednih dana našli smo vremena i za neka naša  sitna zadovoljstva. Posjetili smo neke prijatelje, odnijeli cvijeće na grob mojih roditelja, dali na printanje jakne za jedrenje sa imenom “Meermowe”, a nakon šišanja u frizerskom salonu spustili smo se do centra kako bi se osladili kolačima u slastičarnici “Tradicija” i popili kafu u našem starom i dobro poznatom kafiću.

tradicija spllit 1

Ako ste ljubitelji slastica, “Tradicija” je sjajno mjesto za uživanje u najboljim krempitama, mandulatima i marcipanima u Splitu. Još uvijek ista obitelj vodi ovaj biznis od samog otvaranja 1937. godine, sada vec treća generacija. Kao sad se sijećam kako me moja baka, još kao dijete sa tri godine, dovodila ovde, gdje se, jos i danas volim počastiti ovim prekrasnim žutim užicima.

tradicija, split

Split, najlipši grad na svitu, cvit mediterana, smješten na poluotoku, okružen morem i grebenima, grad u kojem se na svakom koraku osjeća spoj povijesti i kulture. Opjevan je u stotinama stihova, ali niti u jednoj pjesmi dovoljno dobro jer toliko je ljepote teško pretočiti u riječi.

To je grad kojega će kroničar lako opisati kako on živi svojim usporenim ritmom, na koji se brzo navikne.

rivaTaj osjećaj da je ovdje svaki dan praznik, trgovi, restorani i kafići prepuni ljudi i nezaobilazna riva, kojom ljeti puše blagi osvježavajući maestral, a zimi, kao zimski kaput, mediteransko sunce i Dioklecijanova Palača štite od hladnoće, podsijećaju nas da smo kod kuće. Svjetski poznati muzički festivali, kulturno-zabavni spektakli, filmski festivali, koncerti klasične i urbane glazbe, sve to, tokom ljetnih mjeseci, predstavlja neodoljivi kolaž muzičkih događanja u Splitu.

DSC03329Baš se nedavno održavao 55. Splitski Festival zabavne glazbe kojem smo prisustvovali gledajući zadnju večer festivala na splitskoj prokurativi.

Uz kikiriki i coca-colu uživali smo u toj spektakularnoj atmosferi i toploj splitskoj noći. Bilo je 2 sata ujutro kad smo se vratili u marinu na brod.

Tog popodneva, nakon tjedan dana čekanja, vinč je bio, po drugi put, zamijenjen za novi i jači, nakon čega smo isplovili prema Otoku Šolta kako bi ga testirali sidreći se u Uvali Nečujam, dok je problem zahodske pumpe još uvijek bio neriješen i zagonetan.

Nečujam se smjestio u največem zaljevu na Solti. Najmlađe je mjesto na otoku sa centralnom plažom i osam manjih uvala. U vrijeme Dioklecijana, koji je živio nedaleko u svojoj palači u Splitu, car je koristio najmanju uvalu u Nečujmu kao svoj ribnjak.

uvala piskseraZato je toj uvalici i danas ime Piškera a ruševine su još uvijek na dnu mora. Tada je Nečujam od Splita bio udaljen 7-8 sati veslanja, dok Meermowe jedrima, uz malo vjetra plovi svega 1 sat. Tišina i zelena ljepota mjesta bili su inspiracija velikim hrvatskim pjesnicima, koji su svoja najbolja dijela napisali u Nečujmu. Uvala je u stanju svaki zvuk sakriti i pretvoriti ga u sitni šapat.

DSC03266Na sidrištu u Nečujmu ostali smo preko noći. Ne sanjajući kakav horor nas očekuje idućeg dana, zadovoljni i sretni uživali smo u kupanju kako bi preživjeli toplotni udar koji je zahvatio splitsko područje.

Rok trajanja našoj sreći je istekao pripremom doručka slijedećeg jutra. Dok smo veselo časkali o planu i programu jedrenja sa našim priateljima, otvorila sam frižider da dohvatim margarin. Sa nevjericom sam gledala u pun frižider a potom i u zamrzivač. Sve je bilo otopljeno, frižideri uopće nisu radili. Ampermetar je pokazivao stanje baterija prazno. Struje na brodu više nije bilo, što je bilo šokantno samim tim što su baterije ogromne i nove, svaka po 300 ampera. Prava noćna mora. Osijećali smo se kao da nam je srce prestalo kucati.

DSC03343Shvatajući situaciju, zaboravili smo na doručak, upalili motore, podigli sidro i napustili Šoltu. Po uplovljenju u Marinu Kaštela pod hitno smo stupili u kontakt sa specijalistom za brodske frižidere. Dobiti slobodan termin kod Ante, kako bi došao na brod i riješio problem, ravno je dobitnoj kombinaciji lota. Završavajući posao na nekom drugom brodu nedaleko nas, obečao je doći u dvanaest sati, “bingo”. Tri sata nas je dijelilo od njegovog dolaska. Vručina je postala nesnosna. Temperatura zraka se popela do 40*C. Nismo bili sigurni koliko ce potrajati ova agonija, trebalo je nešto učiniti kako bi se sačuvala hrana. Svi moždani kotačići bili su u pogonu. Brzim pretraživajem interneta pronasla sam rjesenje, marine prenosni zamrzivač, “fantasticno, to je baš ono sto nam treba”, složio se Peter.

waeco-coolfreeze-2Odmah smo sjeli u vec iznajmljeno auto i odvezli se do trgovine. Dok je Ante došao hrana je već bila na sigurnom. Sa olakšanjem, osmijehom na licu i srećom u duši gledali smo kako se temperatura spusta do -25*C.

Svojim izvanrednim iskustvom i znanjem, nakon detaljnog ispitivanja frižidera, Ante nam je objasnio o cemu se radi i preporučio nam veoma dobrog električara Nikolu, kako bi se prvo riješio postojeći problem baziran na elektro instalaciji u samom brodu, nakon cega će on riješiti svoj dio posla.

Dolaskom, električara, saznali smo da je ventilator na punjaču baterija crko i uslijed zagrijavanja svi origuraći na kutiji su izgorili a bakrena žica u električnim kablovima je korodirala i na dodir se mrvila kao pijesak. Sve je to moglo ići toliko

bakrena zicadaleko da izazove i požar na brodu. Kako bi riješio problem, Nikola je izvlačio kabel van sve dok nije došao do zdravih žica, kutiju je zamijenio za novu i na kraju garantirao da više nećemo imati problema sa strujom za dugi vremenski period. Frižideri su ponovno bili u pogonu nakon čega su Ante i njegov sin, ispuštanjem plina, uštimali njihov rad. Dolaskom struje život se ponovno vratio na brod.

Mozda malo smiješno zvuči ali razmišljajući o svemu, bili smo presretni što su se problemi ovako jedan za drugim, otvarali baš sada dok još plovimo jadranom, što nam je daleko lakše nositi se s njima nego u bilo kojoj drugoj zemlji ili još gore, možda negdje usred oceana.  Pozdravili smo se s Antom uz želju da se jednog dana opet negdje sretnemo, možda ne pod istim uvjetima.

DSC03374Dani su polako odmicali, naši prijatelji su bili sve bliže Splitu a našem zahodu jos uvijek nije bilo lijeka. Serviseri su digli ruke od njega uz dijagnozu “kupi novi”, što smo, na kraju i učinili.  U nedjelju navecer sam napravila vrlo ukusan i lagan ljetni kolac sa kremom, slagom i sumskim malinama. Dino i Pipo su uzivali pomagati mi u kuhinji uz njihovu omiljenu pjesmu “Zamisli zivot u ritmu muzike za ples”. Kreme je bilo svagdje a najmanje na kolacu.  U ponedjeljak ujutro  bio nam je dostavljen novi zahod kojeg je Peter majstorski ugradio te je bio spreman za upotrebu, na opce zadovoljstvo. To popodne otisli smo na aerodrom da docekamo naše goste. Uzbuđenju i sreći nije bilo kraja a posebno što je s našim prijateljima sletjela i Mimi.

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FLOWER OF THE MEDITERRANEAN – PART I

29 Wednesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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The old image of Diocletian’s Palace, the hustle and bustle on the Split waterfront this time of year, they welcomed us, late in the afternoon, when we arrived in the Port of

uzivanje u splituSplit to refuel. Since we had planned a longer stay in this area, we decided to locate in Marina Kastela near Split. While Peter, after binding to the pier, was resolved administrative tasks with the reception of the marina, I was scrubbing the deck and cleaning the ship. On the dinner in a nearby restaurant, we have listed the duties and obligations that should make over the next ten days when we planned to welcome aboard our dear friends from New Zealand.

marina-kastela-2As we have already had two problems on board, we put them at the top of our List. By the next morning my husband was looking for a master to repair the winch, while I, catching the bus, took the toilet pump for service in Split. “The early bird gets the worm”, says the old adage, though this morning it looked more like “Early bird that is sleep-deprived”. Already early in the morning, summer heat and high temperatures, as well as the complete situation around the repair parts, are not promising much. Marina services were simply “swamped” with work and laziness of workers, so when we came with our problems it seemed that we were superfluous. Everything was going slowly, with long waiting and looked like the real coma, so my husband and I, without losing time and nerves, used the situation to resolve other obligations.

solasCertificate for the life raft, which we had on board, was the next important thing we had to do in the company Antipiros in Split. That afternoon, the company’s driver came with the van to pick up the raft. When we said that we sail to Australia right now we were told that the existing rafts we cannot proceed to the Island of Brac (nearby of Split) and certainly not to Australia. In fact, it was the old rafts category “C” and we need to have on board a large transatlantic raft for 10-12 people category “A”. As someone has poured us with a cold water, Peter and I looked at each other and started laughing. We did not have anything to say. By purchasing a new life raft, we put a dot on the story with a happy ending.

DSC03316The next day, we found a little time for some of our small pleasures. We visited some friends, took flowers to the grave of my parents, and after cutting the hair in hair salon we went down to the city to be relished cake in a candy store “Tradition” and had coffee in our old and well-known coffee shop.

If you like sweets, “Tradition” is a great place to enjoy the best cream pie, mandulates and marzipans in Split.

tradicija split

Still the same family running this business since its opening in 1937, now already the third generation. As now, I remember when my grandmother, as a child of three years old, she brought me here, where even today, I enjoy in these beautiful yellow pleasures.

tradicija, splitSplit, the most beautiful city in the world, flower of the Mediterranean, situated on a peninsula surrounded by the sea and the mountains, the town in which every step feel the history and culture. Singed in hundreds of verses, but even in one song it is not good enough because that’s not possible to put so much of beauty into words.

rivaIt is a city that the chronicler will easy describe how he lives at a slow pace, at which quickly gets used. The feeling that every day is a holiday, squares, restaurants and bars crowded with people and unavoidable waterfront, which blows a gentle refreshing breeze and in the winter, as a winter coat, the Mediterranean sun and Diocletian’s Palace protected from the cold, reminds us that we are at home. World famous music festivals, cultural and entertainment spectacles, film festivals, concerts of classical and urban music, all of it, during the summer months, is irresistible collage of musical events in Split.

DSC03333Just recently held 55th Split Pop Music Festival, which we attended, watching the last night of the festival at Split’s Prokurative. With peanuts and Coke, we enjoyed the spectacular atmosphere and warm of the Split night.

It was 2 o’clock in the morning when we got back to the marina to the boat.

That afternoon, after a week of waiting, winch was the second time,  replaced by a new and stronger and then we set sail for the Island of Šolta in order to test the anchoring in the Bay of Nečujam, while the toilet pump problem was still unsolved and puzzling.

Necujam is located in the largest bay on the island. It is the youngest place with the central beach and eight smaller bays. At the time of Diocletian, who lived nearby in his palace in Split, the emperor had the smallest bay in Nečujam as his pond. It is the

uvala piskserareason why the bay still bears the name of Piskera and the ruins are still on he bottom of the sea.

At that time, Nečujam from Split was 7-8 hours by rowing away, while Meermowe by sails, with little wind is sailing only 1 hour. The silence and the green beauty of the place have been inspired great croatian poets, who were wrote their best work in Nečujam. The bay is able to hide any sound and turn it into a tiny whisper.

DSC03249At anchor in Nečujam we stayed overnight. Never dreaming what horror awaits us the next day, satisfied and happy we enjoyed swimming to survive heat stroke that affected the Split area.

The duration of our happiness was expired with preparations for breakfast the next morning. As we chatted cheerfully about the plan of sailing with a friends of our, I opened the fridge to reach margarine. With disbelief I watched the full fridge and then in the freezer. Everything was dissolved, refrigerators generally have not worked. The ampermetar showed that the batteries are low. The currents on the boat was gone, it was shocking therefore that the batteries are new, built-in Pula, each with 300 amps. It was the real nightmare. We felt as if our hearts stopped beating. Realizing the situation, we forgot the breakfast, start the engine, raised anchor and left Šolta. By the entrance of the Marina Kaštela, we urgently contacted with a specialist of boat refrigerators. Get an appointment with Ante, to come on board and address the problem directly is the winning combination of lottery. Finishing work on another boat near us, he promised to come at noon, “bingo”. Three hours was almost up to his arrival. The heat became unbearable. Air temperature climbed to 40*C. We were not sure how long will take this agony, we had to do something to preserve food. All brain wheels were in operation.

waeco-coolfreeze-2Fast searching the internet I found the solution, marine portable freezer, “Fantastic, this is exactly what we need,” agreed Peter. We immediately got into already rented car and drove to the marine shop. While Anthony came, the food was already safe. With relief, smile and happiness at heart we watched the temperature drops to -25 * C.

With its great experience and knowledge, after a detailed examination of the

DSC03343refrigerator, Ante explained what it is about and recommended us a very good electrician Nikola, to first solve the existing problems based on electrical installation in the ship, after which he will solve his part of job.

On the arrival of an electrician, we found out that the fan on the battery charger and went out under warming fuses on the box are burnt and the copper wire in the electrical wiring is corroded and touch crumbled like sand.

bakrena zicaAll it would go so far as to cause a fire on board. To solve the problem, Nikola pulled the cable out until he came to the healthy cord, the box is replaced by a new and ultimately guarantee that we will not have problems with electricity for a long period of time. Refrigerators were again in operation after that Ante and his son, the discharge of gas, adjust their work. With the arrival of electricity, life returned to the ship.

Maybe a little funny sounds but thinking of all, we were very happy to have problems like this one after the other, opening right now while still sailing the Adriatic, which are far easier to deal with them than in any other country, or even worse, perhaps somewhere in the middle of the ocean. We greeted each other with Ante and desire to one day comes again sometime, maybe not on the same terms

The days are slowly pulled away, our friends were getting closer to Split and our toilet is still no cure. Servicers have given up on him with a diagnosis of “buy new”, what we on the end did.

DSC03374On Sunday evening I made a very tasty and easy summer pole with cream, whipped cream and forest berries. Dino and Pipo enjoyed helping me in the kitchen with their favorite song “Imagine life in the rhythm of the music for the dance.” The creams were everywhere and at least on the cake. On Monday morning it was delivered to us a new toilet, Peter had masterfully installed it after which he was ready to use, to the general satisfaction. That afternoon we went to the airport to welcome our guests. Excitement and happiness knew no bounds, especially as with our friends has been landed and Mimi.

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ŽIVOT NE SAČINJAVAJU SAMO NAŠI PLANOVI O SREĆI, NEGO BAŠ ONO ŠTO SE PROTIVI TIM PLANOVIMA

15 Wednesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in Hrvatski, TRAVEL BLOG

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Napuštajući Dugi Otok preko Murtera, Šibenika i Rogoznice, sve smo bliže našem gradu. Split, u čije smo ime Peter i ja urezali našu prošlost i ljubav, grad koji nas je čvrsto vezao za more, valove i galebove. Davnih godina tu se rodila ideja o putovanju oko svijeta na našem brodu sa dva točka.

jezeraNaše uživanje u jedrenju se nastavilo. Meermowe je ponovno zaplovio punim jedrima i tako nošeni vjetrom uplovili smo u Marinu Jezera na Otok Murteru. Gusti i tamni oblaci nagovještavali su olujno nevrijeme. Kako nam VHF radio stanica nije radila kao ni mobitel, jer smo ostali bez kredita, bili smo prisiljeni komunicirati sa marinom putem e-maila. Odmah, po pristajanju na molo, odlucili smo prošetati do centra, bez obzira na kišu koja se naprosto spustila na gradić. Sa nekoliko sitnih potrepština i karticom za telefon, smrznuti smo se vratili na brod. Te noći smo spavali sa posebnim užitkom slušajući kapi kiše kako udaraju o dek.

Bruxelles, 18.08.2014. - Europska unija u ponedjeljak je ukinula jednogodišnju zabranu uvoza skuša i haringa s Farskih otoka, èime je završen jednogodišnji spor oko pretjeranog izlova tih riba na sjevernom Atlantiku. Arhivska fotografija od 12.9.2013. godine prikazuje ulov ribe. foto FaH/ mm

Jezera su najmanje naselje na Murteru, otoku šibenskog arhipelaga, koji je preko mosta spojen s kopnom. Kao ribarsko mjesto, Jezera nude na rivi tek ulovljene ribe, rakove i školjke, te uživanje u ribljim specijalitetima. Smatra se da su prvi stanovnici dosli u 13. Stoljeću a od važnih povijesnih spomenika može se istaći crkva Gospe od Zdravlja.

U jutarnjim satima, pod sličnim vremenskim uvijetima od prethodnog dana, zaplovili smo prema Šibeniku.

DSC02962Zapljuskivanje valova se smirilo tek pred ulaskom u Kanal Svetog Ante. Uplovljavanje u Marinu Mandalina je vrlo interesantno I zanimljivo. Na samom ulasku u kanal, na otočiću Ljuljevcu, pruža se stara pomorska utvrda Sveti Nikola, koja datira iz 16. Stoljeća. U tom vremenu, kula je predstavljala glavnu zaštitu ulaza u šibensku luku.

Do nedavno se, zbog uzanosti Kanala Svetog Ante, kroz koji se nisu mogla, istovremeno, mimoići dva trgovačka broda, regulisao pomorski saobraćaj

DSC02994

sa tvrdjava Svete Ane i Svetog Nikole na način da je Nikola podizao dvije crne kugle kao znak slobodnog ulaska u luku, a istovremeno je Ana spuštala crveni konus koji je zabranjivao izlazak iz luke Šibenik i obrnuto. U pomorskom zargonu vrlo često se moglo čuti kako nema ulaska u luku dok Nikola ne “digne jaja” a Ana ne “spusti gačice”.

Mi smo živjeli u Šibeniku i vrlo dobro poznajemo ovaj grad, ali nikad nisam imala prilike da ga doživim gledajući ga i sa morske strane.

DSC02976Vjerujem da nema čovjeka koji, kada prvi put prođe Kanalom Svetog Ante, a da ne ostane zadivljen rijetko viđenim prirodnim ljepotama toga prolaza.  Šibenik je poznat kako po svojoj staroj gradskoj jezgri, tradicionalnom Dječjem Svjetskom Festivalu tako i po ljepotama Nacionalnog Parka Krka, smještenog u njegovom zaleđu.

U marinu smo pristali oko jedanaest sati. Posle ručka smo skoknuli do Marina shopa kako bi kupili novu VHF radio stanicu i zamijenili je za staru.

DSC03024Sa nekoliko provjera i testiranja zasigurno je obečavala besprijekoran rad. Sretno I zadovoljno nastavili smo provoditi ostatak našeg dana.

Upoznali smo se sa nekolicinom ljudi iz našeg susjedstva, koji su boravili na svojim brodovima uz isto molo kao i mi. Jos jednom se potvrdilo kako je svijet mali. Odmah preko puta bio je usidren John sa suprugom, iz Brisbana, čije putovanje svijetom će trajati, zasigurno 10 godina, a nekoliko brodova niže nalazio se Andrew sa suprugom iz Sidneja. Bilo je divno upoznati ih i časkati, izmedju ostalog, o njihovim morskim iskustvima.

DSC02992Kad se moj suprug počne motati po kuhinji u mojoj neposrednoj blizini, jasno je kao dan da je vrijeme za jelo. Stoga sam za večeru isplanirala lignje sa žara, blitvu i zelenu salatu, na što Peter nije imao prigovora. Uz čašu Istarske Malvazije uživali smo planirajući naše obaveze slijedećeg jutra i eventualno isplovljenje.

Svaki moj dan uobičajeno započinje u 5 sati ujutro. Dok je moj suprug još u slatkim nježnim snovima, ja vec u 5.30 skočim u more i plivam ili trčim kilometer ili dva, ovisno da li se nalazimo u nekoj od uvala ili u marini. Naše slijedeće jutro u Sibeniku započelo je s problemom zahodske pumpe i nije bilo ni slično dosadašnjim. Očito je bilo da smo, kao James Bond, dobili novi slučaj na rješavanje. Pored svih poslova od vitalne važosti, koje smo napravili na brodu, nije nam palo na pamet da bi nam zahod mogao zadati toliko glavobolje. Za život na brodu zaista nije potrebna filozofija, potrebna je ljubav, vrhunsko raspoloženje, strpljenje, razumijevanje i hrpa živaca, čega su nama puni žepovi.

DSC02998Bezuspješno smo pokušavali rijesiti postojeći problem i zbog nemogucnosti nabavke rezervnih dijelova za popravak, odlučili smo to riješiti u Splitu.

DSC03007Iskoristili smo priliku za odlazak na neka stara i jos uvijek draga mjesta koja su budila predivne uspomene našeg života u Sibeniku.

Noseći pune ruke voća I povrća sa tržnice vratili smo se na brod. Sutradan smo bili na kursu za Rogoznicu ne sluteći sa kakvim problemima ćemo se tamo susresti.

Na putu nas je pratio jak vjetar. Uživali smo u jedrenju dok nas je Meermowe nosio na svojim bokovima pokazujući svoju sigurnost i stabilnost. Uplovili smo u Uvalu Turdaca u rano predvečerje, gdje smo se usidrili.

DSC03027Rogoznica je malo ribarsko mjesto u sredistu Dalmacije Centar starog mjesta nalazi se na otoku I mostom je povezan sa obalom. Jedna od najpoznatijih atrakcija na poluooku Gradina je Jezero.

Zbog vremenskih neprilika te večeri nismo mogli biti opušteni i ići na spavanje. Olujno nevrijeme, koje se je razvilo tokom noći, uzrokovalo je popuštanje sidra i poceli smo kliziti prema obali. Skočili smo iz kreveta, bilo je mračno, hladno i kišovito. Peter je upalio motor a ja sam odmah počela podizati sidro kako bi brod izvukli iz opasnosti i presidrili se na drugu poziciju. Nakon toga odlučili smo ostati u smjenama prateći vremensku situaciju i ponašanje broda sve do jutarnjih sati. Pošto su se vjetar i more smirili počeli smo podizati sidro u želji da isplovimo iz Rogoznice prema Splitu. Kad je sidro došlo blizu površine mora sidreni vinč je proklizao i sidro sa 6o m sidrenog lanca je nekontrolisano i velikom brzinom sletilo u more. Svi pokušaji da se zaustavi vinč i podigne lanac sa sidrom na brod bili su uzaludni. Pošto smo bili nemoćni i zasigurno usidreni, odlučili smo prvo sjesti i popiti kavu kako bi razmislili što da radimo. Radio stanicom i telefonom smo pokušali stupiti u kontakt sa službom spasavanja na moru ali i to je bilo uzaludno jer je bio praznik sa produzenim vikendom i nitko nije radio. Uzimajući u obzir sve opcije našli smo se pred dilemom da li otkačiti lanac sa broda i baciti u more. Tog trenutka smo ugledali velike ribarice koje su se, uplovljavajući u luku, vračale sa noćnog ribolova. Moj suprug je čamcem otišao do njih i zatražio pomoć, sobzirom da oni imaju velika vitla kojima vuku mreže.

DSC03108Samim tim što se radilo o potpuno novom vinču, ugrađenom u Puli cijeli dogadjaj je bio nevjerojatan. Nakon izvjesnog vremena Peter se vratio sa četvoricom momaka od kojih je jedan bio profesionalni ronioc. Situacija je postala dinamična, puna uzbuđenja i iščekivanja, a posebno zato sto su došli sa manjom barkom umjesto ribaricom kako je bilo za očekivati.

Zbog velike buke, Dino i Pipo su se u bunilu pokrili jastucima i pokrivačem. Dino je bio nesto hrabriji I tiho izvirio na palubu.

DSC03088“Oops, glb…hej Pipo, dodji da vidis, novi problem je upravo sletio na dno mora. Kako uzbudljivo, kao u Mapet Show, ovi momci su trebali doci sa King Kongom a ne sa malom barkom. Pipo idem ja sam da se u to umijesam.”

I zaista, sve je izgledalo kao film. Marko, Josip, Milan i Dario bili su izuzetno dobri i pravi profesionalci znajući štotreba da naprave. Josip je uzeo konop i zaronio na 15 m

DSC03115dubine kako bi podvezao lanca, dok su Marko, Milan i Dario rukama vukuci konop, vadili lanac van.

DSC03126U nekoliko navrata lanac i sidro su bili izvadjeni na brod. Na kraju, iz razgovora sa njima, doznali smo da vrlo cesto u toku godine pomažu ljudima u sličnim situacijama.  Rogoznicu smo napustili sa još jednim problemom vise, čije rješenje smo morali također tražiti u Splitu.

Moj suprug i ja imamo dugogodisnje zivotno iskustvo i odavno smo shvatil da život ne sačinjavaju samo naši planovi o sreći, nego baš ono što se protivi tim planovima i namjerama, ono sto se slučajno dešava, što je potpuno nepredvidivo, ono što svi jednom riječju zovemo samo “loša sreća” a ne razocarenje i bol. Zato smo sretni i ustrajni u nasim namjerama i ostajemo na nasem putu do kraja ma koliko god nam bilo tesko.

DSC03066Nasa slijedeca destinacija je grad Split.

 

 

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LIFE DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ONLY OUR PLANS ABOUT HAPPINESS, THAN OF WHAT OPPOSES THESE PLANS

15 Wednesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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Leaving Long Island over Murter, Sibeik and Rogoznica, we are all closer to our town. Split, on whose behalf, Peter and I carved our past and love, a city that we were firmly tied to the sea, waves and seagulls. Long time ago there was born the idea of traveling around the world on our boat with two wheels.

jezeraOur enjoyment in sailing continued. Meermowe again sailed under full sail and carried by the wind we sailed in Marina Jezera on the Island of Murter. Dense and dark clouds have been hinting at a storm. Since VHF radio was not working as well as our cell phone, because it was empty, with no credit, we were forced to interact with the marina via e-mail. Immediately, after binding to the pier, we decided to walk into the city, regardless of rain, which is just descended on the town. With a few small items and cards for phone, frozen we returned to the ship. That night we slept with particular pleasure listening to the rain drops hitting the deck.

Bruxelles, 18.08.2014. - Europska unija u ponedjeljak je ukinula jednogodišnju zabranu uvoza skuša i haringa s Farskih otoka, èime je završen jednogodišnji spor oko pretjeranog izlova tih riba na sjevernom Atlantiku. Arhivska fotografija od 12.9.2013. godine prikazuje ulov ribe. foto FaH/ mm

City of Jezera is the smallest town on Murter, island of the Sibenik archipelago, which is connected across the bridge to the mainland.

As fishing village on the waterfront Jezera offers freshly caught fish, crustaceans and molluscs, and enjoyment of the seafood specialties. It is believed that the first settlers arrived in the 13th century and of the important historical monuments can be emphasized the Church of Our Lady of Health.

In the morning, under similar weather conditions as the previous day, we sailed towards Sibenik. Splashing of waves calmed down just before entering the channel of St. Ante. Sailing in Marina Mandalina is very interesting and fun. At the entrance of the channel, on the Island of Ljuljevac, provides the old maritime Fortress of St. Nikola, built in the 16th century. At that time, the tower represented the main entrance to the protection of Sibenik port.

DSC02965 Until recently, due to the tightness of St. Ante Channel, through which it could not, at the same time, to sail by two merchant ships, regulate maritime traffic with the fortress of St. Ana and St. Nikola in a way that Nikola lifted two black balls as a sign of free entry to the port, and while Ana down red cone which barred them from Sibenik port and vice versa. In maritime jargon often could be heard as there is no entrance to the port while Nikola never “raise balls” but Ana does not “down panties.”

DSC02994We lived in Sibenik and we very well know this city, but I never had the chance to experience it and seeing it from the sea. I believe that no man, who the first time pass the channel of St. Ante, not to remain impressed by seldom seen natural beauties of this passage. Sibenik is known as for its old town center, the traditional Children’s World Festival and by the beauty of the National Park Krka, located in its hinterland.

festival djeteta sibenikIn the marina we sailed around eleven o’clock. After lunch we popped down to marina shop to buy a new VHF radio station and replace the old one. With few checks and testing certainly promised a smooth operation. Happy and satisfied, we continued to spend the rest of our day. We met with several people in the neighborhood, who

DSC03024have stayed on their boats along the same pier as we do. Once again proved what a small world. Right across from us, was anchored by John and his wife, from Brisbane, whose worldwide journey will last, certainly 10 years, and several ships below there were Andrew’s ship from Sydney. It was great to meet them and to chat, among other things, about their marine experiences.

DSC02992When my husband starts hanging around the kitchen in my immediate vicinity, it is clear as day that it was time to eat. So I planned a dinner of grilled squid, chard and lettuce, as Peter had no complaints. With a glass of Istrian Malvasia we enjoyed planning our obligations the next morning and eventually get underway.

My day usually starts at 5 am. While my husband is in a gentle sweet dream, I’m already at 5.30 jump into the sea and swim or run a mile or two, depending on whether we are in a bay or marina.

toaletOur next morning in Sibenik started with the problem of the toilet pump and there was no similar to the previous. The pump was out of order. Obviously, it was that we, like James Bond, get a new case to solve.

In addition to all activities of vital importance, which we done on the boat, we did not assumed that the toilet would it inflict so much headache.

For the life on board is really not necessary philosophy, need love, the ultimate mood, patience, understanding and a lot of nerves, which are us full pockets.

We unsuccessfully tried to solve existing problem and because of the impossibility of procurement of spare parts for repair, we decided to work out in Split.

We used the time to go to old and still nice places that have wonderful memories to our life in Sibenik.

DSC02997Arms full of fruits and vegetables from the market, we returned to the ship. The next day we were on course for Rogoznica not knowing what problems we will encounter there.

On the way we followed the strong wind. We enjoyed the sailing. Carrying us on his hips, Meermowe showed its security and stability. We sailed into the Bay of Turdaca in the early evening, where we docked. Rogoznica is a small fishing village in the centre of Dalmatia.

DSC03027Centre of the old town is located on the island and is connected by bridge to the mainland. One of the most popular attractions on the peninsula is Lake Gradina.

zmajevo oko rogoznicaDue to the weather conditions that night we could not be relaxed and go to sleep. Storm, which was developed during the night, causing a loosening anchors and we started to slide towards the coast. We jumped out of bed, it was dark, cold and rainy. Peter started the engine and I immediately began to raise the anchor to ship out of trouble and move to the second position. After that we decided to stay in shifts following the weather situation and the behavior of the ship until the morning hours. Since the wind and the sea calmed down we started to raise the anchor in order to sail from Rogoznica to Split. When the anchor has been close to the surface, the windlass has skidded and anchors with 6o m anchor chain uncontrollably and rapidly landed in the sea. All attempts to stop the winch and lifted the chain with an anchor on the ship were futile.

Since we were helpless and certainly anchored, we decided to first sit down and have a coffee in order to consider what to do. We tried to contact the rescue services at sea by radio and by telephone but it was useless because it was the holiday long weekend and nobody worked. Taking into account all of the options we were faced with the dilemma of whether to unhook the chain from the boat and throw it into the sea.

At that moment we saw the big fishing boats that were, sailing into the port, coming back from a night of fishing. My husband went with dinghy up to them and asked for help, because they have large winches for drag their nets.

DSC03108The fact that it was a completely new winch, built in Pula, the entire event was incredible. After some time Peter is back with the four young man one of who was a professional diver. The situation has become a dynamic, full of excitement and anticipation, especially because they came with a small boat instead of fishing boat that was to be expected.

DSC03088Due to the high noise, Dino and Pipo were delirious cover pillows and blankets. Dino was more courageous and quietly looked out onto the deck. “Oops, gulp … hey Pippo, come to see, a new problem has just landed on the bottom of the sea. It’s exciting as the Muppet Show. King Kong would be a better solution than a small piccolo boat.  Pipo, maybe I need to get involved “.

Indeed, everything seemed like a film. Marko, Joseph, Milan and Dario were extremely good and true professionals knowing what to do.

DSC03115Josip took a rope and dived to 15 m depth to tie up the chain, while are Marko, Milan and Dario dragged the rope hands pulled the chain out. On several occasions, chain and anchor were extracted on board.

DSC03126

Finally, from conversations with them we learned that very often, during the year, they help people in similar situations. We left Rogoznica with another problem more, whose solution we need to also look in Split.

My husband and I have many years of life experience and we have long understood it all that life is not made up only of our plans about happiness but of what opposes those plans and intentions, what is happening by chance, what is unpredictable, what all we call only “bad luck” rather than disappointment and pain. That’s why we’re happy and persevering in our intentions and we remain on our way to the end no matter how hard we were.

DSC03066Our next destination is the City o Split.

 

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LJEPOTA GOLOG KRSA DUGOG OTOKA

07 Tuesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in Hrvatski, TRAVEL BLOG

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TELASCICA POST 1Naše se veliko putovanje nastavlja tamo gdje smo stali u zadnjem postu. Iza nas je ostao Susak okupan suncem. Meermowe već klizi sa vjetrom u jedrima otvorenim morem noseći nas do Dugog Otoka. Čeka nas obilazak prekrasne Uvale Telaščica i Slanog Jezera koji kao dio Nacionalnog Parka Kornati, raspaljuju maštu.

Na našem putovanju zaustavili smo se na Otoku Molat. U Brguljski Zaljev smo uplovili s namjerom da prenoćimo, kupimo potrebne namirnice i napunimo tank vodom za nastavak putovanja. Mogli bismo danima obilaziti ovaj dio Jadrana ali smo morali misliti i na vrijeme, koje je u ovo doba godine vrlo nestabilno i promijenjivo, od totalnih bonaca do olujnih vjetrova čija brzina doseže do 50 bofora.

DSC02956Napuštajući Brgulj slijedećeg jutra, po udarima vjetra, dalo se naslutiti da će se naš dan po mnogočemu razlikovati od prethodnih i da će biti pun aktivnosti na brodu. Prije Prolaza Maknare raširili smo jedra i pripremili se za jedrenje. Vjetar i more su bili u pojačanju u odnosu na prethodni dan. Valovi koji su se razbijali o pramac broda, zvizduk vjetra i snazni udari pramca o površinu mora podsijećali su na realnost o kojoj smo sanjali od samog početka putovanja. Voda nas je zapljuskivala sa svih strana. Hvatali smo vjetar jacine 30 cvorova, dok je more bilo 3-4. Meermowe je pod pritiskom vjetra, svojim bokom ležao na moru i punim jedrima snažno rezao valove. Pravo uzivanje.

DSC02883Sretni i ponosni jedrili smo duž tog krškog fenomena, visokih stijena koje se okomito spuštaju u morske dubne, tih predivnih, litica zapadne obale Dugog Otoka.

Ima nekoliko legeni o nastanku Dugog Otoka i otočja jedinstvene ljepote, Kornata, jedna od njih kaže da je Bog, poželjevši okruniti vlastito djelo, od suza, zvijezda i daha stvorio Kornate dok drugi govori o Bogu koji je bacio pregršt bijelih stijena, koje su mu preostale, i kad se osvrhuo, zaključio je da ništa ne treba popravljati.

taljuricU Uvalu Telaščica uplovili smo između dva otočića, Taljurić, koji je, zapravo mala kamena ploča, promjera 60m, visine svega 3m, čije su gornje slojeve raznjeli valovi na

DSC02780kojem nema vegetacije i Vela Sestrica, nenaseljen otok, na kojemu se nalazi samo Svjetionik Tajer, značajan po 28m visokom osmerokutnom metalnom tornju. Na njemu se više mjeseci zadržavaju jata ptica selica prije dugog leta u južne krajeve.

Nezaboravno je i impresivno uplovljavanje u Uvalu Telaščica.

TELASCICA MAPA POST 3Uvučena je, otprilike, 8 km u

kopno. Zaljev je vrlo razveden i sadrži jako puno uvala, rtova i otočića. Zahvaljujući svojem položaju to je jedna od najvećih i najbolje zaštićenih prirodnih luka na istočnoj obali Jadrana.

Bilo je pet sati popodne kad smo se vezali za bovu. Odmah smo prionuli pospremanju i sređivanju broda, čemu smo, pri svakom uplovljenju, dali prioritet, bez obzira koliko smo umorni, gladni ili mokri. Nakon ukusne večere uživali smo u noćnom kupanju a potom, uz šalicu toplog čaja, isplanirali naše aktivnosti za sutrašnji dan.

DSC02876Uvala Telaščica nije naseljena, tu se nalazi samo kamp i restoran koji radi do kasno u noć. Uz obalu su uređeni molovi za pristanak turističkih brodova koji dolaze uglavnom iz Zadra puni stranaca.

Prva atrakcija Uvale Telaščica koju smo posjetili, bilo je Slano Jezero. Ostavivši naš brodić uz obalu, zaputili smo se putem koji nas je vodio u brdo iza kojeg se nalazi jezero.

DSC02803Tu se jos uvijek mogu vidjeti stare kamene kuće i predmeti koji ukazuju na nekadašnji težački život otoka. Oko jezera, kroz, šumu, proteže se šetačka staza duga 2 km. Taj, nama poznat miris alepskog bora, koji podsijeća na Dalmaciju, širio se svuda oko nas. Sjedeći uz jezero, na otprilike pola puta, uživali smo, u sendvičima, koje sam pripremila za ručak, okruženi tom divnom borovinom.

Put nas je dalje vodio do fascinantnog mjesta na kojem smo doživjeli svu ljepotu golog krša.

DSC02840Nismo mogli vjerovati svojim očima ugledavši sve te kamene sculpture. Jedna od priča kaže, da su nakupine kamenja, koje je poslagano jedno na drugo, gradili putnici kako bi označili put. Druga priča govori o mitološkom značenju nakupine kamenja kao “čuvara duša” umrlih ljudi. Neznajući njihovo podritlo moj suprug i ja smo podigli svoju skulpturu u ime naše sreće i ljubavi koji će nas čuvati na našem putovanju.

DSC02832

Uz samo more nalazi se i kamena ploča u kojoj postoji rupa sa toplom vodom, na koju dolaze turisti da se kupaju.

Na povratku smo svratili u restoran i dok smo uživali u pivu i sladoledu, gledali smo veliki broj turističkih brodova koji su uplovljavali i isplovljavali iz Uvale Telaščica.

Sigurno utočište dalmatinskih magaraca, lutalica, predstavlja

DSC02936još jednu zanimljivost uvale na Dugom Otoku. Magarac je poznat po svojoj tvrdoglavosti i teškom radu ali ima nešto što mnogi ne znaju, da pokretima ušiju magarac izražava svoje raspoloženje. Kad mu uši padaju uz glavu znači da je opušten, ali kada su mu pripijene uz glavu i zabačene unazad, onda je gotovo sigurno nezadovoljan i pazi kako mu prilaziš.

Moj suprug je u nekoliko navrata boravio u uvali i bez obzira sto mu nije bila nepoznata, uživao je u tom predivnom ambijentu, kao da je prvi put ovde. U Telaščici smo ostali tri dana.

DSC02879Maximalno smo se posvetili, hodanju po brdima I istraživanju otoka, njegove tradicije i modernog načina života, a po povratku na brod, kupanju i pecanju.

DSC02921Iz saznanja od ljudi, ovaj krajolik, također, karakteriziraju legende o čudnim prastanovnicima s pet rogova i tajnovite priče o zakopanu blagu koje skriva uvala.

DSC02862Kad živite na brodu sve je pred vama, vaša sreća naprosto zaustavlja vrijeme, kreacija zaustavlja smjenu noći i doima se da je uvijek u pitanju isti dan, u mogućnosti si da zaviriš u svaku rupu, da dotakneš svaki kamen, hrid i da si još bliže svakom galebu koji, u tvoju neposrednu blizinu, tako nježno aterira na površinu mora.

DSC02944

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BEAUTY OF THE BARE KARST ON LONG ISLAND

07 Tuesday Jul 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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TELASCICA MAPA POST 3Our great journey continues where we left off in the last post. Behind us remained Susak bathed in sunshine. Meermowe was already gliding with the wind in the sails the high seas carrying us to the Long Island. Waiting for us a tour of the beautiful Bay Telascica and Salt Lake, which as part of the National Park Kornati, ignite the imagination.

During the trip we stopped at the Island of Molat. In Brgulj Bay we sailed with the intention to spend the night, buy the groceries and fill the tank with water to continue our journey. We could visit the days of this part of the Adriatic Sea but we had to think of the time, which is, in this time of year, very unstable and transient, than of complete calm to stormy winds which speed reaches up to 5o knots.

Leaving Brgulj next morning under the wind gusts could be seen that our day in many ways be different from the past period and it will be full of activities on board. Before Passages Maknare we’ve spread the sails and prepared for sailing.

DSC02952Wind and sea were form increasing compared to the previous day. The waves breaking against the bow of the ship, whistling winds and strong strikes of the bow area has pointed to the reality that we thought from the very beginning of the trip.

DSC02955

Water lapped at us from all sides. Strength of the wind was 30 knots and the sea was 3-4. Under the pressure of the wind, Meermowe was lying completely on one side on the sea and under full sail strongly rode the waves. The right of enjoyment.

DSC02881Happy and proud we sailed along these karst phenomena, high cliffs that fall vertically into the deep sea, these beautiful cliffs on the west coast of Long Island.

There are several legends about the origin of Long Island and the unique beauty of the islands, Kornati. One of them says that God wished to crown is work, out of tears, stars and breath created the Kornati, while the second wpeaks of God who threw a handful of white rocks which remained to him, and when he looked back, he decided that nothing should be repair.

taljuricIn the Bay of Telascica we sailed between the two islands, Taljuric, which is actually a small stone tablet, diameter 60 m, height of only 3 m, whose upper layers blew waves where there is no vegetation, and Vela Sestrica, uninhabited island, which has the only lighthouse Tajer significant at 28 m high octagonal metal tower.

DSC02780

It’s an amazing and impressive sailing in the Bay of Telascica. Recessed is approximately 8 km into the mainland. The bay is very indented and contains a lot of bays, headlands and islands. Thanks to its position it is one of the largest and the best – protected natural harbor on the east coast.

TELASCICA POST 1It was five o’clock in the afternoon when we were tied to a buoy. We set about tidying up the boat, which is a priority for us at the entrance of each port, no matter how tired, hungry or wet we are. After a delicious dinner, we enjoyed a night swim and then, with a cup of hot tea, planned our activities for the next day.

DSC02875Telascica lagoon is not populated, there is only a camp and a restaurant open until late at night.

Along the coast are decorated piers to dock tourist boats that come mainly from Zadar full of foreigners.

The first attraction in Telascica Bay which we visited, it was Salt Lake. Leaving our boat along the shore, we headed along a path that took us over the hill to the lake.

DSC02804There can still see old stone houses and items that indicate the former farming community life of the island.

DSC02811Around the lake, through the forest, stretches for walking trail 2 km long. This well known smell of a pine tree reminding of Dalmatia, spread all around us.

DSC02806Sitting by the lake, about halfway, we enjoyed, in sandwiches, which I prepared for lunch, surrounded by the beautiful forest.

DSC02840We continued led to a fascinating place were we experienced the beauty of bare karst. We could not believe my eyes at the sight of all the stone sculpture. One story says that the cluster of rocks, which is stacked on each other, was made by travellers in order to mark the way. Another story speaks of a mystical meaning of the cluster of rocks as being the “guardian of the souls” of dead people.

DSC02832

Not knowing their origin my husband and I have raised our sculpture on behalf of our happiness and love that will keep us on our journey. By the sea there is a stone slab in which there is a hole with warm water, to which tourists come to bathe.

On the way back we stopped at a restaurant and while we enjoyed the beer and ice cream, we observed a large number of tourist ships that sailed in and out of the Bay Telascica.

DSC02936Safe haven of Dalmatian donkeys, strays, represents another interesting fact on Long Island. The donkey is known for his stubbornness and hard work but there is something not many known that the movements of the ears of donkey express its mood.

When its ears fall beside its head, it means it is relaxed, but when they are clinging to its head and thrown backwards, then it is most certainly unhappy and be careful how you approach it.

My husband has repeatedly stayed in the bay, and despite the fact that it was not unknown, he enjoyed the wonderful ambience, like the first time he was here. In the Bay we stayed three days.

DSC02860Maximum we were dedicated to walking in the hills and survey the island, its tradition and modern life, and after returning to the boat,

DSC02921swimming and fishing. From the knowledge of the people, the legend of strange inhabitants with five horns and mysterious tales of buried treasure hidden in cove also characterize the landscape.

DSC02918When you live on a boat, all is in front of you, your happiness, just stop the time, the creation stops shift night and seems to be always comes the same day, you are able to pry into each hole, to touch every stone, rock and you’re closer every seagull that, in your immediate vicinity, so gently land on the surface of the sea.

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TOPLINA MEKOG SUSAČKOG PIJESKA

26 Friday Jun 2015

Posted by Jasmine in Hrvatski, TRAVEL BLOG

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DSC02706Neumornim plesom divova podigao se oblak prašine i pijeska od kojeg se formirao otok, a jata lastavica na otok su donijela vinovu lozu – to je temelj “Legende o otoku Susku”, nove slikovnice Elvisa Vickića i Lorete Vickić Rusijan.

Dok čitate ovaj post pokušat cu da vam približim duh ovog mističnog otoka. Ako se prepusite vlastitoj mašti, osjetit ćete pod bosim stopalima toplinu mekog susačkog pijeska a ako načulite uši čuti ćete šum trske koja se povija na vjetru i osjetiti miris mora nošen vjetrom s pučine.

DSC02716Susak je jedinstveni otok na Jadranu kako po svom nastanku tako i po svom izgledu. Debele slojeve finog žućkastog pijeska na kamenu vapnenačku ploču nanijeli su pradavni vjetrovi, a ljudi su od pamtivijeka oko svojih poljoprivrednih dobara sadili trstike čije korijenje u potrazi za vodom prodire duboko u tlo i cuva ga od erozije.

Otok je također specifičan po svojoj tradicionalnoj narodnoj nošnji koja se razlikuje od narodne nošnje ostalih dijelova Hrvatske.

narodna susacka nosnjaSvečana varijanta ženske nošnje je žarkih boja cija je suknja iznad koljena i smatra se jednom od prvih mini suknji na svijetu. Svakodnevna varijanta je tamno plave ili crne boje koja se nosi i danas.

Ja nikada prije nisam bila na Otoku Susku i baš zbog njegove posebnosti imala sam veliku želju da uplovimo u Uvalu Susak. Peter je boravio na otoku prije četrdeset godina kao student i pamti slike mjesta iz tog vremena. Ponesena njegovim pričama stvorila sam svoju sliku te meni, nepoznate destinacije.

Od Losinja do Suska udaljenost je 5.5 nautičkih milja. Noć prije isplovljenja proučili smo pomorsku kartu Sjevernog Jadrana, kompletirali prognozu i vremenske izvještaje, napravili plan naših aktivnosti te se upoznali sa kulturološkim običajima otoka. Isplovili smo u jutro oko osam sati. Vrijeme je i dalje bilo predivno, mirno i bez većih promjena. Vjetra nije bilo ni za lijek.

DSC02657Nije nam se žurilo pa smo se prepustili Meermowe i njegovom ljenom plutanju po plavoj površini i uživanju koji vam produžuje život. Uz kupanje i sunčanje na deku uživali smo u lubenici i hladnom piću. Poslala sam nekoliko poruka i mailova familiji i prijateljima koji nestrpljivo čekaju na naše javljanje.

DSC03091Pipo I Dino su također našli sebe i svoja zadovoljstva. Dino se od smijeha izvalio na leđa dok ga je Pipo golicao po vratu.

Za ručak je bila servirana pizza koju sam mom suprugu obečala napraviti. Pekli smo je prvi put u životu na roštilju, pošto nemamo pećnicu na brodu, što joj je dalo poseban okus. Nakon ručka i kafe još jednom smo došli u situaciju da moramo nastaviti motorom.

U normalnim uvjetima od Lošinja do Suska se stiže za sat vremena. Mi smo uplovili u Uvalu Susak u ranim večernjim satima. Zbog plićine u luci, nismo mogli pristati uz molo pa nas je Alen, lučki kapetan, predirektirao na plutaču.

DSC02691Jos sa broda, tokom uplovljenja primjetili smo Crkvicu na Brdu Arat i Svjetionik Garba. Bilo je tri popodne kad smo se čamcem prebacili na obližnju plažu. Pod impoviziranim šatorom upoznali smo se sa bračnim parom iz Austrije, koji posjeduju kuću u Gornjem Selu.

DSC02696Svake godine, za godišnji odmor, Klaus i Claudia dolaze ovde provodeći cijeli dan na plaži, uživajući u suncu i kupanju. Šator im služi kao zaštita od sunca.

Brzo smo se sprijateljili, ostavivši naš čamac sa njima, krenuli smo u istraživanje otoka, Rta Darto. Na njemu se nalazi kapelica Gospe od Navještenja koju su Suščani sagradili tridesetih godina 20. Stoljeća zato što nisu mogli često, zbog nevremena, obavljati svoje zavjete Bogorodici. Put do crkvice je lijep i lagan i sa vrha brda se najbolje vidi lošinjska Annunziata. Natrag smo se vratili istim putem koji u drugom dijelu vodi do Groblja, Gornjeg Sela i Svjetionika.

susak cementaryGrobljanska kapela Gospe Žalosne, na Merinama, sagradjena je početkom 20. Stoljeca. Sobzirom da nema uobičajenih stabala i da s njega puca pogled na novouređene vinograde i pučinu, groblje djeluje neobično svijetlo i vedro.

Otok Susak je velikim dijelom pokriven vinogradima. Nekada je tu postojalo samo jedno naselje pod nazivom Sansego.

DSC02724Kasnijom izgradnjom u luci se stvara drugo naselje nazvano Donje Selo. Kako bi se olakšala komunikacija izmedju dva sela sagrađene su stepenice. U središtu sela smještena je zgrada Kluba Iseljenika kao glavno mjesto okupljanja i društvenog života Suščana.

Ulice Gornjeg Sela, za razliku od Donjeg Sela, su uglavnom, popločane ili prekrivene betonom, vrlo su kratke i brzo se prekidaju u smjerovima lijevo i desno.

DSC02726Bili smo očarani ljepotom i interesantnošću centra. Nismo znali kuda idemo, osijećali smo se kao u lavirintu bez izlaza. Prepustili smo se toj rijeci uličica i napokon izašli iz centra te se našli na putu za Svjetionik.

Garba je sagrađen na najvišoj točki Otoka Suska, vrhu Garba (98m), koje je važno mjesto osmatranja, te je jedan od najvećih i najvažnijih svjetionika na ovom podrucju. Za početak je služio kao vidikovac, za kojeg su se ulaznice kupovale u lučkoj kapetaniji u Malom Lošinju.

DSC02740Nekada su, na svjetioniku živile tri porodice sa djecom, muževi su bili svjetioničari i smjenjivali se u poslu svakih osam sati. Danas tu u kući živi još samo Ante, preostali svjetioničar sa svojom suprugom. Oko svijetionika se prostire divan cvijetni vrt.

DSC02743Proveli smo oko sat vremena u razgovoru sa Antom koji nas je na kraju odveo do vrha svjetionika sa kojeg se pruža predivan pogled na otok.

Prepuni dojmova i utisaka, umorni ali sretni i bogatiji za mnoga saznanja, napustili smo Garbu i vratili se kraćom stazom koja je vodila do samog centra.

DSC02699Svratili smo na pivo u obližnji restoran kako bi olakšali dušu i stavili tačku na tako divno provedeni dan. Vratili smo se na brod, večerali i otišli na počinak.

Moj suprug i ja smo bili ugodno iznenađeni ovom destinacijom, ono što smo očekivali vidjeti bilo je daleko od onog što Susak zaista jest i svakako ćemo nastojati da dođemo ponovno. Nažalost, Otok Susak je zbog loše povezanosti daleko izvan dometa radara turističkih agencija pa mnogi nisu svjesni njegovog postojanja.

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Sljedeći dan smo proveli na brodu kupajući se i uživajući u planiranju naše slijedece destinacije. Alen i njegova predivna supruga Maja, došli su da se pozdrave sa nama i da nam zažele sreću na našem daljnjem putovanju.

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WARM AND SOFT SAND ON ISLAND OF SUSAK

26 Friday Jun 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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DSC02741Tireless dance giants raised a cloud of dust and sand from which formed the island, a flock of swallows on the island were brought wines – it is the foundation of “The Legend of the Island of Susak”, the new picture book of Elvis Vickic and Loreta Vickic Rusijan.

As you read this post, I will try to give you closer to the spirit of this mystical island. If you leave yourself to your imagination, you will feel the heat under the bare feet of soft sand of Susak and if you listen carefully you will hear the sound of the reed trembling in the wind and smell the sea the wind from the open sea.

DSC02705Susak is a unique island in the Adriatic Sea to its origin and its appearance. The thick layers of fine yellowish sand onto the limestone plate inflicted ancient winds, and since time immemorial people around their farms planting reeds whose roots in search of water to penetrate deep into the soil and preserve it from erosion.

The island is also specific for its traditional folk costumes, which is dirrerent from the traditional costumes of other parts of the Croatia. Solemn variant women’s dress is bright colors whose skirt above the knee and is considered one of the first mini-skirt in the world.narodna susacka nosnja The daily variation is dark blue or black worn today.

I’ve never been on the Island of Susak, and because of its special features, I had a great desire to sail in the Bay of Susak. Peter stayed on the island forty years ago as a student and remembers the image of that time. Carried away with tis stories created my imaage and to me, unknown destinations.

From Island of Losinj to Island of Susak distance is 5.5 nautical miles. The night before leaving, we studied the nautical chart of the North Adriatic, complete forecasts and weather reports, make a plan of our activities and become familiar with the cultural traditions of the island. We sail in the morning at eight o’clock. The weather was still beautiful, peaceful and without major changes. Wind there was no cure. We were not in a hurry so we left Meermowe and his rival floating on the blue surface and the enjoyment that you extend the life. In addition to swimming and sunbathing on the deck, we enjoyed watermelon and cold drinks. I sent several messages and mails to the family and friends who are eagerly waiting for our answer.

DSC03091Pipo and Dino also find themselves and their satisfaction. Dino with laughter rolled and sprawled on his back while Pipo was tickling his neck.

For lunch was served pizza that I have my husband promised to do. We roasted the first time on the frill, as we have no oven on board, giving it a special taste. After lunch and coffee once we got into a situation that we needed to keep the engine.

Under normal conditions from Losinj to Susak can be reached in an hour. We sailed into the Bay of Susak in the early evening. Because of the shallow water, we could not dock on the pier in the small port so Alen, harbourmaster, helped us to establish closer ties on the buoy.

DSC02689More from the ship, during entering we noticed the small Church on the Hill Arat and Lighthouse Garba. It was three in the afternoon when we were transferred by boat to the nearby beach. Under artificial canopy erected, which relied on four branches, we met with a married couple from Austria, who own a house in the Upper Village.

Every year, for holidays, Klaus and Claudia come here spending all day on the beach, enjoying the sun and swimming.

DSC02697

We quickly became friends, leaving our boat with them, we started to explore the island, Cape Dart. At the top there is a chapel of Our Lady of the Annunciation by the inhabitants of the island built the thirties of the 20th century, because they could not often due to bad weather, to carry out their vows to the Virgin Mary.

DSC02681Sandy road to the church is nice and light, and from the top of the hill is best seen Annunziata on Island of Losinj. We came back the same way that in the secong part leads to the Cemetery, Upper Village and the Lighthouse.

Cemetery chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, on the Merinama, was built in the early 20th century.

susak cementaryGiven that there is no common trees and with a direct view of the newly renovated vineyards and the open sea, cementery act unusually bright and clear.

Vineyards largely cover Susak. Once there existed only one village called Sansego. Subsequent construction in the port creates another settlement called Lower Village.

DSC02724In order to facilitate communication between the two villages were built stairs. In the center of the village is locataed building Immigrants’ Club as the main gathering place and social life of the villagers.

The streets of the Upper Village, in contrast to the Lower Village, are mostly paved or covered with concrete, very short and fast break to the left and right directions.

DSC02727

We were enchanted by the beauty and interestingness of the city.

We did not know where we’re going, we feel like we were in a maze with no exit. We left the river the streets and finally came out of the city and were on our way to the Lighthouse.

DSC02734

Garba was built on the highest point of the Island of Susak, the top Garba (98m), which is an important place of observation, and is one of the largest and most important Lighthouse in this area. For starters served as a lookout, for which tickets were bought in the harbormaster’s office in Mali Losinj.

DSC02742Sometimes, for the lighthouse lived three families with children, husbands were lighthouse keepers and deposed in the job every eight hours. Today there lives in the house only Ante, the remaining lighthouse keeper and his wife. Eye of lights spreads a delightful flower garden. We spent about an hour in conversation with Ante, who has finally led us to the top of the Lighthouse with a beautiful view of the island.

DSC02745

Full of impressions, tired but happy and richer for the many insights, we left Garba and return to the short trail leading to the town. We stopped for a beer in a local restaurant in order to ease the soul and put an end to such a wonderful day we had.

We returned to the boat, dinner and went to bed.

DSC02699My husband and I were pleasantly surprised by this destination, what we expected to see was far from what Susak really is, and we will certainly try to come back.

Unfortunately, Susak is, because of poor connection, far beyond radar range of travel agencies and many are not aware of its existence.

The next day we spent on the boat swimming and enjoying in planning our next destination.

DSC02703Alen and his wonderful wife, Maja, came to greet us and tell us they wish luck on our onward journey.

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