How I have managed to figure out, life is the shift between the new and old.  One thing ends and another begins, or as what my dear husband would say, “every end is a new beginning”.  And so, that morning, we have once again left the shore and started the trip into unknown, opening a new page of the story, three thousand miles long, with which I want to honour all our dear and faithful followers as well as those who have decided it to become.   Our longest landless trip was often the topic of our thinking and conversation even at the time of the start of Meermow’s Great Adventure.  It was the time, when we celebrated the first thirty miles, successfully crossed on the Adriatic and felt like we have passed, nothing less or more, than The Cape of Good Hope.  For that reason, the journey from Galapagos to French Polynesia, that moment in our eyes and above all the happy world, was inconceivable.  Our brain was too small to figure this impressive number to understand differently than an ordinary number with a lot of zeros.  In spite of everything, there was not a moment to worry about this complex mathematical function with the many unknowns that we should face in the foreseeable future.  We simply surrendered to the maritime temptation and enjoyment while the answers and solutions, during navigation came alone. We were sure that, up to French Polynesia, we would be physically and mentally ready, to overcome any situation and weather conditions in the 23 days period.  So let’s do this together and beat the challenge of this longest trip that might take you to the land of your dreams, because in the end this is your adventure.

We left the Galapagos with full sails sometime before lunch.  The sailboats were slowly moving away from each other and disappeared into the horizon. The day was sunny, warm and ideal for sailing.  Using the stern-side wind, the course led us to the southwest.  In anticipation of his amplification, we collected the bimini that it would not break down, looking for pleasure and sun protection in the shaded shade below the solar panels, what that turned into a funny and fun game. In the end, winning over such a nice and rare oasis in the cockpit ended up under umbrella.  Irresistible burgers, whose fragrances spread out of the kitchen, soon they smiled to us from the tray speaking in all languages about enjoying each segment of our journey.  In that warm and positive atmosphere, we have soon become solo players in the sea spaciousness.  We really loved the way Meermowe has been crossed miles, opposing the waves as well as gusts of about 20 knots.   At that moment, we even did not dream the weather is going to play with us that afternoon about five o’clock, and definitely slow our progress.  Unstable wind was “so strong” that pointer of the wind spun around in all directions, while the Genoa was helplessly hanging on the bow as a patch.  There was no choice, we have collected the sails, start the engine and moved on, sailing into dusk and beautiful sunset.  That night, my husband started the night shift, while I was unsuccessfully trying to get some sleep.  Preparing for sleep on board, especially in navigation, is a very simple process.  Instead of being in bed, you sleep on sofas in the saloon.  There are no getting dressed in pyjamas because you have to be ready for an emergency popping into the cockpit.  Your brain is in constant motion with one eye open.   Teeth are only washed for health reasons, and when you finally catch on with the horizontal position on how to not lose any minute from well-deserved rest, for your ears it is going to paste small night music of the ship engine.   To try to fall asleep is hard but achievable, if nothing else, then with the old and proven technique of counting sheep.  At the end of all, you sadly realise that your time has expired and the sheep flock left uncounted.  If I had not stood up to replace Peter, Meermowe would be converted to Noah’s Ark. The night went smoothly and without problems.  Early in the morning we got some wind off of 5.5 knots, so I widened the sails and turned off the engine.  The speed with which we moved was automatically dropped to 2.5 and promised that we would reach the Marquesas Archipelago by the end of the year and if we managed to reach 4 knots, we could be straight to Nicky Lauder, Formula One driver.  It was true that we were expecting this kind of slack on this section of the journey but not so fast, just a few hours after departure.  Motoring or not, was a question in which even Hamlet would not be able to answer, because the length of the trip that was standing in front of us, had warned that we must take account of the fuel consumption.  We did not want to risk it, so we decided to wait for the wind.  It was an interesting start and a new experience that we did not have the chance to experience in the Atlantic.  According to the weather reports, which did come by mail through Iridium, it all seemed that we had to sail even more south than we planned, to reach the area of the winds.  Weather conditions in the first few days of our longest trip without the land, did not differ much.  The weak winds that had periodically appeared were real joy.  We did not have a spinnaker so we played with sails, tangoon and boom.  We have tightened and release them to catch at least a little wind.  The speedometer still did not cross three knots, which confirmed Galileo’s theory of moving.  We were slowly advancing in the slow-motion version as the worm in the cabbage, while we did not, in the early afternoon, like Cinderella after midnight, turning again into captives of absolute quietness.

My husband and I, we functioned very well in that uncertainty, which has to, far from the real world we got used to, could extend on through all week and turn it into a real agony.  Aware of the situation, we left to the maximum enjoyment of the natural environment in which we found ourselves, as well as to everything that came to our minds, to preserve the power of spirit and good mood. From the stage of the largest water theatre in the world, dolphins and sea lions with their spectacular acrobatics and lazy stretching on the sea surface, were entertaining us.  While albatrosses and flying fish stayed true to themselves and their roles in a closed circuit pursuer and fugitive, the night premiere of luminous planktons, were performed under the cover of darkness with a playful pearl shimmering.  It was a real paradise for the eyes with which we loaded our batteries.  To Peter’s pleasure, I used up the time of deadness for culinary delights, so I had filled out tropical nights by romantic dinners served with candles and good wine, what has been in other circumstances unimaginable.   With our many daily obligations on the boat, we used our down time to play with the interesting contents of our “maritime chest”.  Movies, music, games, all of which were located in this rich treasury of entertainment, from which we could learn a lot.  The real fun for us was the discovery of the life motto of the ancient people of the lost city of Timgad.  “Hunting, swimming, playing and laughing, that’s the life,” it was carved into its walls.  To this thought, we could identify ourselves and I could add “… and sailing on our own boat with two rudder wheels, …”.  Do you also believe that there was some secret relationship between us, at the moment when we raised the anchor of Meermowe’s Great Adventure?  So, slowly moving and floating like a small plastic boat in the well, Meermowe was, with the fascinating sunsets, calmly but safely from night to night sinking into darkness where his position lights, like a deserted island, were the only lanterns of life.

More than half a week has remained behind us and who knows where it would be the end of this and the beginning of a new episode, that Peter did not make the decision “tomorrow we turn on the engine”.  Great, just what we needed, at the right time and in the right place, because when the skin begins to be itchy it is time for action and adventure.  The journey continued in a brilliant mood, by the sign of bananas, which at their fingertips were hanging in the cockpit as well as both donkey’s and bird’s noise of our sweet and cuddly crew, Dino and Pipo.  Even the engine noise was no longer registered, we sailed, and that was the most important moment at that time.  During the night, six beautiful white albatrosses landed on the deck to rest and gather strength how, in the early morning they would continue far on.  Looking at them, I remembered of Dalmatia and Split. For the time of south winds, when the seagulls got together in parks, on the waterfront promenade or anywhere along the seashore, old Dalmatian fishermen would know to say “storm is coming”.   Just because of that sensible instinct they possess, I thought that our dear friends were just a warning on the weather changes that will soon change our rhythm.  It’s amazing how much I was right.   However, there was no south wind, but to our great surprise that morning, into our story has entered the storm wind of 15 knots.   We turned off the engine and spread the sails.  At speed 7 we were back in shape.  What a pleasure!  We finally got what every sailor dreams of.  We took advantage of the situation to throw nylon and try fishing.  We proudly supported Meermowe, celebrate every passing mile and have only one wish, only to last. But still…… it was all pointed to the opposite.  The wind had become unstable and although it seemed to have the strength of 6 knots, we did not have any use of it.  Sails were totally exhaled, while baits for fish became plain metal lures.  We entered into the area of strong currents. Velocity of movement was 0.1.  The pointer on the wind gauge had begun to wildly turn around.  Because of the low speed, the rudder canceled the obedience so we started to swing and turn around in all directions.  Meermowe stood in place.   We decided to collect the sails and the baits and re-start the engine only for one hour and see if anything will change. And indeed, it had changed but in the wrong direction.  Just when it should not, appearing to be of some trouble.  Balancing at the deck as he removed the tangoon from the genoa, Peter stepped on one of the windows and unfortunately broke it.  Seeing what had happened, I immediately went down under the deck to put two thicker trash bags on the window cover, as the dark clouds were just over us.  Seconds were in question because rain had already started to fall.  Weepeee, we stayed dry.  Otherwise we could safely sing my favorite song by B.J.Thomas, “Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head”.  We turned on automatic pilot and like Rocco and Cicibela, we had shrunk under the bimini, deeper into the cockpit.  No matter what my husband treats rain as an ideal sleep time, she is, in fact, very romantic and mystical.  Some people do not like rain as my dad did not like, but anyhow, I believe that many of you, at least one, had enjoyed the rainy atmsphere of staying on the beach, fishing, or walking along the coast of the sea because when it rains, nature and all that surrounds you, even the umbrella you hold in your hand, takes on one a new and indescribable shape.  Sun and showers, in which we sailed, periodically have alternated until finally, in the afternoon, did not stay behind us and together with the wind that completely disappeared.  It was a very interesting shower therapy.  The needle on the fuel gauge showed that ¼ of diesel had already been spent.  Using the slack, with the first reserves of diesel we replenished the tank, while we were still motoring because it was very likely that we will not pass without at least another fierce storm.  Charting position on the nautical chart, we immediately concluded that we are in the area of increased magnetic disparities with a large deviation of the magnetic compass from the GPS.  For this reason, the direction that led us in the hunt on more stable winds of 11 to 18 knots, as on the well-hidden truffles, were determined according to the GPS.  Contrarily, the course of the magnetic compass, would take us on even hundreds of miles more south of the final destination.  Official communication during the navigation was carried out regularly via SSB.  During the morning and evening we had to report on the position of each ship in the fleet, the general condition of the crew and any problems on board.  In the end, everything pointed to the fact that we should, as a whipped cream on the cake at the Island of Hiva O’a arrive last, which did not bother us at all.  With a pleasantly spent evening still one more very warm and muggy day has come to an end.  Yes, exactly, came to an end, but did not finish, because the new storm in which we sailed in during the night on the transition from the sixth to the seventh parallel, checkmated us in three moves.  While the rain was falling mercilessly, terrifying sound of thundering and lightning echoed in the night ripping the sky.  It was one weird mixture of fear and comfort, pleasure, and discomfort, and a conflict of belief and persuasion that the rain is right idyll or at least one of its versions.  Anyway, we got out of the storm and by full lungs continued further with the wind reaching up to 18 knots.  Life under sails has become, in some way, our philosophy of life and total enjoyment so even in extreme conditions.

Catching a hundred kilos of heavy tuna, it was the culmination of fishing for us.  As we did not give up of that dream, next week of sailing was filled with a little fishing dynamics.  We really missed this adrenaline sport full of uncertainty and excitement.  To our great surprise, that was the most challenging and craziest season ever.  Regardless of the countless unsuccessful attempts which we did have, two beautiful Swordfish, caught on one stick; the collision of the “back to back” with Peter in the simultaneous struggle with the unknown monsters and two nylons as well the huge Merlyn, whose head had described the fish over one hundred kilos, certainly they have become part of our most exciting stories from the depths of the sea.  That illusion is not only part of the magician’s performance, has confirmed and “Hoodoo Gile”, a bird Cormorant, our legendary hero who, in search for lunch was caught on the hook.  Whoops, what a trouble!!!  And so, miserable Gile was jumping and snorkeling through the waves without his bottle and flippers, until we pulled him out. Broken in pain, with a saucer eyes like on a bingo machine and scattered feathers that it hopelessly hung over his head, was looking as if he had just come down from a roller coaster. When he regained consciousness, we returned him to the sea and watched for some time, until he had dived into the water again.  He probably remembered that half an hour ago he looked for lunch.

Travels the open seas are a challenge for every sailor.  They are unpredictable and full of proving of themselves, its limits and possibilities. Not only change life’s habits, but our thinking and view of the world that surrounds us.  New experiences overshadow the old, complicated becomes easy, and impossible turns into possible.   Everything that is done on board, adapts to current conditions and performs in the best possible way, making this adventure a really interesting and special one.  In this boundless freedom of spirit and movement, we have not chosen resources to achieve the goal.  Seawater has been used for everything except for drinking and cooking. Those days, for the first time in my life, I washed the merchandise in the seawater and so to ourselves, we had smelt like salty sardines and a good wine.

Our time has passed relatively fast. Every moment on board represented a touch of all elements of nature.  Mornings we were found on the deck many small squids and flying fish, which waves had thrown out onto our platform during the night, leaving them powerless to return to the sea.  In the company of a book and a refreshing drink, we simply left ourselves to the silence and enjoyment of the sailing.  Soon we changed time zones, so our days were getting shorter and nights becoming longer. Night’s duties were extended endlessly and had finished with toothpicks in our eyes.  With the passing of the 112 meridians, we were approaching halfway up to French Polynesia.  Life on the boat was running normally and under control until light rain had begun. A new cycle of the weather change it once more played with us emphasizing its absolute supremacy.  We were again exposed to a strong blow of wind and waves, which were sudden and rapidly rotating the bow of the ship to the left, pushing the wind-pilot outside of its course.  At that moment we got acceleration.  The speedometer calculator climbed to 10 knots.  Meermowe seemed to have got her wings.  Honestly, it did not last long, but experience told us that we have to intervene, calm our passions and shorten sails.  Before sunset, the rain stopped and we, lonely in the blue of the ocean, continued our journey with the stern winds and low rays of the sun, in which they had passed through the edge of lead-grey horizon.

The first half of the trip was over in the morning hours of the following day, which was certainly the reason for the celebration.  With a tiramisu cake and a wonderful smell of coffee, we threw a bottle with a message in the sea and sailed into the third week of our longest journey without land. While are the back wind, pleasant weather and constant progress had become the sequence of our daily lives, the storms seemed as if they had rested somewhere far away from us.It was like we sailed downhill through this part of the route and that miles were passing much faster.    “In case it will continue on this way, at Marquesas Archipelago we could arrive in just over a week,” Peter shouted out from the saloon after marking the position.  It sounded fantastic, like we were in front of the door, so we did not hide excitement and joy.  In the soul, we lived with the sea, with the sails and for sails.  Frequent visits from the dolphins and the whales were right refreshment, while fishing was a pure dream and empty story.  Any attempt to catch something, was a failure, as in the knights’ tournament “Sinjska Alka” when it spears hits “into nothing”.It was possible to catch the old discarded container before the fish.  Despite of everything, the nylons had been cast into the sea every day with the hope that we will by the end of it realize our dream of catching a hundred kilos of heavy tuna. And so, by crossing the 124th meridians, we were closer to the final line and the “madness”, which came to us three days before the arrival at French Polynesia.  A new announcement of strong winds of up to 35 knots in the “H” section, through which we sailed, it did not make us so excited as that penetrating sound of nylon.  In the visit to us she had arrived, neither more nor less than our dear guest, tuna.

This dramatic story had begun in a very ordinary morning, during the breakfast.  Finally, the eagerly awaited and well-known sound that has, like the thundering from a clear sky, simply passed through the air, ripping our ears.  Pushing the coffee away from himself, Peter immediately jumped up, grabbed the fishing stick and pulled it through the bracket of the solar panels to stop the crazy unwinding nylon.  We were expecting a loss of the hook and bait again, what in the fight with the monsters, often happens.  Like us, you would not believe, the reel had stopped at the very end.  At first glance it all did stop, we almost thought that beauty of the beast, had run away.  A few seconds we were puzzled over and staring into the distance, then it came to the general clutter.  According to the behavior and the resistance, which the fish provided, we figured she was heavier and well-hooked tuna with which we will not be so easy to handle. That raw power from the ruler of the depth had raised our adrenaline to the extreme exhaustion.  The battle lasted for two and a half hours, after which the muscles of our handshadtrembled from tiredness.  Finally, as the half dead from exhaustion, on the reach of hand, the tuna was lying motionless on the surface of the sea.  It was too shocking to look at her, she had over a hundred kilos.  We managed to drag her up to the first stair and then it had followed by a second juice. Convincingly reflecting his helplessness, at one point with the last forces, tuna had strongly winced and broke the nylon.  Holding an empty fishing stick in the hands, we could not believe it with our eyes.  For a few seconds she still lay so motionless, while we had slowly moved away from her and then tuna disappeared into the depths. Peter was just about to jump for her. Painfully, we looked at each other and laughed.  Damn, at same time we were so close and so far away.  Actually, we wanted to take a picture with such a huge and heavy fish then return her back to the sea.   In the case as she knew it, who knows, maybe her mind would have changed.  An hour later, we caught blue tuna, weighing in at 15.5 kilograms, and a day before arriving at our destination, into the freezer we hosted a very tasty Wahoo fish and so had forgotten abot our great failure.

Considering that the wind, with which we had to face, luckily turned in the other direction, we were able to determine the time of our arrival at Hiva O’a.  On Friday, the twenty-third day of the trip, four hours before reaching the port we saw the first outlines of the mainland.  As the dusk slowly descended, birds were circling above us as if they were welcoming us. It was wonderful to watch them being so overwhelming in their peaceful and safe flight.  That I know all the languages of the world, believe me, I would not be able to describe the happiness and pride, with which we were fulfilled getting nearer to the finishing line.  Into the Bay of Atuona, on the authentic island of the Marquesas archipelago, Hiva O’a, we sailed in at the evening where we joined our fleet.   At the Taha Uku anchorage, under a starry sky of French Polynesia, that moment had been thrown and last anchor of the ARC fleet.

That evening, we played songs long into the night. Totally calm sea, storms, hurricane winds and extreme heat, it is all like a movie once more went through our minds, while we were melted in the taste of risotto with squids.  I wonder where else, except with Meermowe’s Great Adventure, we would literally watch by day, week and like a dreamy baby in the cradle of the ocean, had experienced the ultimate thrill of sailing.  The story has come to an end, and whether the end is really a new beginning or a simple ending, you will tell me that in the next adventure.

Isabella is the largest island of Galapagos and one of the pearls of the Archipelago.  It is easily recognized because its shape resembles a sea horse.  At a distance of over a hundred miles, we sailed for a day in a very pleasant atmosphere, talking as well as joking about the unusual stories we picked up at San Cristobal.  The most interesting one was about “Lonely George”, who was formerly the oldest gigantic turtle.  He was the last remaining male of that particular kind, whom had the scientists harshly forced sex to extend its species.  According to their opinion, George was at the very peak of sexual power but unfortunately did not show interest in fatherhood, so it remained the only hope that George would have is that maybe one day he would become a middle-aged father.  He lived on the island of Pinta and as the most lonely animal on the planet, has received well-deserved place in the Guinness Book of World Records.  He was later transferred to Santa Cruz Island, where he died at the Breeding Centre.  “If I were to have a sexual rise whilst being one hundred years old like George, I would also not bother myself with fatherhood”, was Peter’s comment “even more, I would open a harem and live in it as a Sultan”, he added with a big smile.  Poor George, he was killed by sex in the best of years.  If it weren’t like that, maybe he would live several decades longer.  The night was beautiful, romantic and full of enjoyment, which Peter accepted with great caution in regards of George’s experience.

On the anchorage of the small fishing village Puerto Villamil, we have sailed in about five that afternoon. At the entrance, we noticed that the bay is calm and protected as well as filled with underwater reefs and shallows.  By the “Embarcadero” dock and the small club “Nautico” we could have come with dinghy, but we used taxi services to avoid complications through a very demanding rocky maze. “Why complicated when it can be easily”, was our moto, so we have elegantly disembarked on the pier and walked lightly towards the city. Puerto Villamil is situated in the middle of idyllic sandy beaches stretching along the coastline. In one of a series of affordable restaurants, we picked up some information about the city itself.  The first thing we discovered in its immediate vicinity it was a park with local brackish water and flamengos in its, called “Flamenco Park”. Looking at the exquisite pink coloured feathers of these exceptionally beautiful birds belonging to the swamp was like looking at paradise.   These creatures are interesting as well as shy in nature therefore we were able to watch and photograph them only with distance. Due to the short stay, the mega prices and sweltering temperature in the air, we did not explored Isabela as we had imagined. Disastrous heat closed our doors before we went on the six-mile wide crater of Sierra Negra, the most active volcano in the Galapagos. It was a hot story without any sense that turned into Hamlet’s question “do it or not”. You believe me, it was not hard to find the answer in the pleasant shade of the restaurant, enjoying the cold beer, laughter, and fun. In the end, it was supposed to be experienced. After a very pleasant evening, we started preparing for the continuation of the journey and meeting with new beauties and excitement. Leaving Puerto Villamil in the foam furrow of Meermowe, we left Isabela in the direction of Santa Cruz Island, located in the center of the archipelago.

We anchored in a fully open bay, in front of the capital of the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora.  Swaying on the waves, we found our own place between excursion boats and the other modern wanderers under sails.  We were excited because we knew we would soon leave this unique natural park in the world and start with the longest voyage without land up to French Polynesia.  The life on Galapagos, after Islands of Cristobal and Isabela, became somewhat a routine, so we did not waste time to ordering taxi to drive to the city.  Under the equatorial sun, on the dock well-known representatives of the animal world, sea lions and iguanas greeted us.  Puerto Ayora is extremely neat and a very pleasant place.  In the harbor and on the waterfront it ruled a real life, which is not uncommon for small coastal towns.  Trade on the street takes place at a temperature of more than 40 degrees.  Air conditioners are seen only in dreams, and the prices are not at all shy.  Fish was in abundant and is very cheap.  The only ones, which have been ok with everything in this surounding, were the pelicans.  They are well intentioned and remarkably agree with the fishermen.  We walked around and found fewer grocery stores and fruit market, where we the day before departure, made a small shopping. I did not miss a opportunity to shorten my hair at the first hairdressing salon we’ve had on the way.  Numerous Italian restaurants were a real surprise for us.  In any case, we stopped in one of them before returning to the ship.  Unlike expensive wines, the beer had been poor quality therefore we have, with a fruit cocktail, ended up the evening.  The favorite Nachos dinner, prepared on board, was more than hit.  The Mexican crackers with which we pleasantly chated about further navigation, spoke seven languages.  Until we went to sleep we studied maritime charts, satellite navigation, weather conditions, as well as made strategy and organization of further trip.  As usual, Dino and Pipo helped us in it.  Meermowe was in the top form for the fierce rhythm of sailing.  “Only that we are still missing is the fruit market on Saturday and we can go”, was the conclusion with which we happily agreed and gone to bed.  How is Academy Bay was full of hammerhead sharks, by no means we did not think about swimming, so the last day in Santa Cruz were dedicated to Tortuga Lagoon.  The morning was full of big excitement, hurry, and extraordinary mood.  Dino and Pipo who decided to come with us, they had contributed of that sympathetic hurryness.

This bay, due to its beauty, is one of the most famous on Santa Cruz. It is about a forty-five minute walk from the city center. The winding stony path surrounded with cactuses, palo santo and matasarno trees, led us to the spacious coast, which is elegantly drowned in the Pacific Ocean. It was hot and windless, like in an oven set at 350 degrees without a fan. While we chilled ourselves with water from the bottle, how we would not melt like ice cream, Dino and Pipo were deeply submerged into the shade of the backpack. At the end, the painstaking walking was rewarded.   In the front of us there was stretches of spectacular white sandy beach with the beautiful iguanas, as our dear friends called them “angry beasts” of which they were scared. Full of the fearness, they fell to the bottom of the bag as a lego dice. It took us the whole eternity to emerge them out. With a bit of persuasion, by the end of the day, they even became friends with these sweet “negro candies” so we even managed to make some happy photos. The Playa Mansi, with one part being describe as having strong currents and the kick of powerful waves over the sandy dunes whose noise was spreading along the beach like an echo. The second part is in a very quiet and protected lagoon, where we swam, while are Dino and Pipo enjoyed in climbing on the tree branches. As the old song says, “Everything is coming to the end, one day “, therefore also this one full of laughs and fun finished faster than we wanted. We arrived back to the boat in the early evening. With the sunset, we enjoyed and went to sleep, somewhat earlier. The Saturday’s open-air market, opens early in the morning, at five o’clock, while already at six, with my friends from the group, I have been on the streets of Puerto Ayora. The main trading place is located on the way to the airport and is something further from the port, therefore we watched with delight as the city wakes up. Some of the products that we found at the stalls were bred locally while most of them are brought by boat from the mainland. The prices were a bit high, but unfortunatelly we did not have a big choice. That Peter was with us, he would simply enjoy chatting and joking with these wonderful traders, and particularly those of female’s gender. I’m sure with his exquisite charm it could have filled our bags with fruit and vegetables at cheaper prices. We definitely missed him, but I can’t say the same for him, because at that time of the day, he usually enjoys the sweet dreams. In the afternoon hours, we were supplied with the quantaties of water that we ordered and fuel with which we filled all tanks and spare plastic canes up to the lid. Customs administration and paperwork to leave Ecuador were ready.  The last check of the electronics, cords, ropes, sails and winches has once more confirmed our readiness for a new adventure. That evening we prepared two messages in bottles in four languages with a big wish that they arrive to the shore with the wind and the waves, so to those who find them bring happiness and joy. Before leaving, in the banana shop for $10, we bought a whole branch full of green bananas. It was a great idea, to our longest journey in the hug of 97 bananas, I do not think that even an Orangutan would not be happier more than us. Bananas were placed on the boat, in such a place that we were able to watch them even while we slept.

By raising the anchor, one by one, we were on the way to the starting line. Proudly standing at the bow, my thoughts were wandering over the Pacific Ocean, the largest ocean in the world. With sails full of the wind, we left Galapagos at the direction to the belt of permanent southeast winds of the Equator who followed Meermowe all the way to Australia. On our route, the first mainland was the island of French Polynesia, Hiva Oa in the Marquesas Archipelago. It’s a small inlet in which I found out that Paul Gauguin and singer Jackass Brel Sampson were buried and whose graves we would like to find if we would have any chance at all.

Peter has always been a great student. Unlike physics, chemistry and mathematics, which subjects he adored, geography was less interesting and even boring. He was not interesting to learn how many sheep there are in Argentina, how many tons of fish annually were exported from Italy or how much rice fields in China are worth. The only thing that attracted him from that area was the map imagining that one day he must visit the world. Dreaming about sailing on its own boat with two wheels and discovering new spaces is the reason for the existence of Meermowe’s Great Adventure, so you sail with us, be prepared to face the risks of traveling and discover the distant Galapagos.

We left Panama in a fantastic mood. While the light wind filled our sails, we resembled like Darwin’s exploratory expedition of the twenty-first century. Meeting with lizards’ iguanas, watching pink flamencos and steping into the world of huge korni turtle, were new adventures that flowed through our veins.  In a wide arc, toward the Island of Chapera, we bypassed round about the shallow water that stretched in front of the Bay of Cacique. Passing Punta Lagarta and Mala, we sailed towards the Island Pedro Gonzales and Jan Jose. Our final destination was the island of Cristobal. The days were sunny, warm and humid. We were feeling the proximity to the Equator, from which we were separated only a few days. But, none of this did not prevent us that in the shade of the bimini enjoy divine tranquility, fascinating scenes of sunrise and sunset as well as a new understanding of incredible animal friendship in this endless of sea vastness. Along with the daily commitments we had on board, fishing was our main concern. Old stocks long ago ran out, so we have had great hopes in that discipline, which did not betrayed us. Each day was a new challenge. An unforgettable struggle with a blue tuna and a duel full of jumps with fish of rainbow’ colours called dorado, at witch occasion my nylon cutted one finger of the gloves as I helped Peter get it, are just part of the everyday fishermen’s stories of this part of the journey. I cannot, without mentioning Roger, a small sea dog that was triumphal overture. Our biggest challenge was the swordfish heavy 27 kilograms, we caught the day before arrival in Galapagos. This brilliant story began unexpectedly with sharp rattle sound of nylon, just when we decided to finish with fishing and turned into several hours of strategic duel with nature, full of excitement and suspense. It was a real adrenaline rush in which we, in spite of incredible risks, have put ourselfs and all our fishing knowledge, which we had, how could fish arrive on the table. Undeniably, it was our fishing adventure, but I have to be honest, even if we did not catch anything, this would be days to memory. Anyway, we came to Galapagos like a fisherman. It was enjoyment to watch fish tails as they smiled beneath the lid of the freezer.

Crossing over the Equator line is something that traditionally, in one way or another, is still marked in the maritime world. According to the old tradition to the show program and the ceremony, it full of insanity, on large merchant ships and tankers, great attention was paid to emphasize the importance of this event. For those, who this invisible line that divides the globe in half, cross for the first time meant the transformation of a young sailor into a professional crew, what was not so easy. While some celebrated the grace and helplessness of King Neptune, from the others bounded with chaines, with strong water jets their sins were paid off. Rich tables, it contributed to the celebration, while the crown of all was the “equatorial cocktail”, specially prepared for this occassion and nothing less than into the toilet bowl.  There was that place for all the magical spices, which came to the mind, from beer, wine, coca-cola, whiskey and soup, then flour, pepper and salt until hot tabasco and everything that can “beautify” life. Huh, what a nice swallow …disaster, but you never say NO, because there was found someone who said: “Another one, please”. You have to admit, dear friends that after this peppermint story, it was wonderful to return again to reality and our common adventure, so instead of the toilet bowl to drink cold champagne from the champagne glasses, savoring the wonderful oreo cheesy cake that I prepared the day before crossing the Equator. Sins I will not to adjudicate because the happiness and pride that we were feeling that moment, counting geographic minutes and seconds on the plotter together with all of you, were strong enough to drive them out of the way, without chains and hose. While in the soul we celebrated the victory of another section of the way, Meermowe carried us further to the first contours of Cristobal Island.

The Galapagos Islands are described as one of the most spectacular places on the Earth’s globe. The time spent on them is considered to be a life changing experience, so our expectations were directed in that direction. The San Cristobal Island, whose name comes from the saint of St Christopher, also known as Chatman is the fifth largest in the group and the first island to which Darwin was disembark. In Puerto Baquerizo we sailed in just before lunch and anchored at a depth of approximately sixteen meters. For a short while, to our great surprise, we were surrounded by a multitude of playful sea lions. With their sweet snouts, they acted very friendly, while with the screamming and the clapping with the front limbs, they expressed welcome and therefore won us completely. We immediately realized that they adore boats and were not afraid of people. Sociability, importunity and graceful behavior, they were used to lubricate the eyes and achieve the goal. And they really have succeeded. With their intelligence and naive play, they quickly occupied the Meermowe as their territory, first only one, carefree lying down on the stairs, and then the entire family tree. Sounds like a chauffeur’s story about a sexy hitchhiker with her husband and five children hidden in the bushes. We had no idea really, how much we were naive when we thought that with swinging of the curious male this story ends. No, that was just the beginning of our daily headaches. But still, we enjoyed the party with which we were filled the time until the arrival of customs controls.

Solving the paperwork was going relatively fast. We already were familiar with the rigorous regulations, so it was all timely well prepared. Three inspection’ groups with five officers exchanged each other until we did not collected all the necessary paperwork to enter the country and finally got the green light to go ashore. Communication with the mainland takes place by a water taxi, which has operated all day and night in all directions. It took just waving with a hat, to order them via radio channels or yell in order to attract their attention.  The rest of the day we decided to spend in the city and stretch our legs. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is a little and very cute place. He was named after the first Ecuadorian president who visited Cristobal. Already at the taxi dock, we have noticed that we will not have a problem to find our way in this somewhat sleepy town, whose legend speaks of sailors, long journeys, accidents and deaths as well about the longstanding mystery of the “Galapagos affair”, linked to a series of unresolved disappearances on the Island of Floreana in Galapagos. In the Interpretation center, it still can be seen found and preserved objects used by the first families that settled there, what is shown in the film “Satan came to Eden”.   Among them is the world’s most famous mailbox for letters that have been picked up and delivered by crew of the boats, who came to the island. Given that it was the only link with the outside world, perfectly functioned.

Near this small museum surrounded by lush vegetation, we had a chance to see, among other things, the unique Fregata bird, whose male, in a romantic mission inflates its red chest with the aim of winning his partner with his infinite attraction. We enjoyed in this natural creativity and spectacular view of the beach and the roofs
of the town. Puerto Baquerizo has two main streets and both stretch along the coast. Houses of pastel colors are mostly large, while style of construction is subtle and remind to Mexican hacienda. On the way back, we went toward Malecon, the main public meeting place, from where they were coming the sounds of hot salsa. The place abounds of cozy restaurants, bars and shops, while the Ecuadorian seafood “ceviche”, are being prepared for all tastes. Since we had seafood delights in abundance, we decided to only drink something cold.

In the end I have to mention our newly baked friends, lazy sea lions that are the real attraction of the city and without which Puerto Baquerizo would not be what it is. They are related to sacred cows in India and like scattered pearls are lying on the road, sidewalks and public benches with no worries that the police will punish them for the wrong parking. Toward whichever way we go, we were “feeling” them in the air. Another extraordinary afternoon, full of fun stayed behind us, but the biggest one was when we got to the boat and saw the whole tribe, from grandfather to the smallest bud, stretched out on the deck and cockpit. At the sound of the engine, they were reluctantly raised their heads, looking at us questionably. Before we got on the boat, the happy family has jumped into the sea leaving behind an unpleasant stench and a message “see you soon”. We did not suspect that we would have breakfast and early morning coffee to drink without our friends on board, so we have covered stairs and the entire backside with all available fenders in the hope to stop their climbing aboard. It was a new scenario with shabby rules of the game, but also with clever solutions that surpassed all expectations. The next morning it happened exactly what we have assumed. Helplessly standing in the cockpit, the pearls of Cristobal they surrounded us in full composition, without anybody absent. As we have agreed, taxi arrived sometime before seven o’clock. Whilst our “Beach Boys” were swaying on Meermowe, we were laughing with tears just how intelligent they were.

Flintstones have always been the favorite cartoons of all generations and I’m sure that there are no one who hasn’t, at least once, equalised itself with Fred, Wilma, Barni or Betty. Watching them, only a dead man it would not want to have an elephant instead of a vacuum cleaner, postman pelican, dinosaur for riding, a stubborn tiger as a pet as well as feel the taste of Cactus Cola and of course enjoy in Flinstones steak from a grill. Perhaps all this would remain only part of our fantasy that Peter and I have not found ourselves in that well known “yabba dabba doo” world that morning. Departing on El Junco Lagoon with the “Flintstones Jeep”, was part of a new adventure, big chasing through the time machine as well as super feeling that we all were part of one modern family of stone age. The way has led us through lush vegetation and agricultural fields. Passing El Progresso we briefly stopped beside the tomb in which were, along with the body of Manuel Cobos’, or popularly called as “Cobos Imperor”, deeply buried all his affairs about which they are still talking as about bad dream. His story begins in the middle of the 19th century, when he gets approval from the State of Ecuador to open the production of sugar cane in San Cristobal. In the absence of laborers, the authorities have released prisoners to freedom, provided they had to live on this island. By developing his own empire, Manuel has become a total absolutist. Apart from printing their own coinage, people had to buy exclusively in the stores that he owned and at the price he created by himself. His orchards with a new kind of fruit it was forbidden to touch the three years, whose mature fruits, the children could not resist. Despite parental prayer that he does not do it, theft he condemned by beatings without mercy. Lust and possessiveness he was manifested not only toward girls but also women.  They were forced to come for a certain day, by an order that been sent over their fathers or husbands, bathed and for dinner. By sending to the abandoned cliff with a very small amount of bread, where was hard to survive, were punished any opposition to that. After a while, people rebelled and they killed him so that are his brutality and cruelty finally doomed. I just think that Manuel was a sailor, his ship should be, for sure, anchored several months on Equator how could he expels all sins and injustice, which he had done.

El Junco that means sedge, with which is covered it edge, is a little lake at the top of the island and is the only source of constant drinking water. We reached him by the numerous stairs that led through the Miconian tropical shrubs, characteristic of this area. Standing on the edge of a dead volcanic crater turned into a lagoon, we enjoyed the landscape, overlooking the top of Cerro San Joaquin and spectacular Punta Pitt. Due to its sweet water, El Junco is the place where can be watch the Chatham, Mocking and Frigate birds how they swim and clean their feathers from salt. A pleasant wind that we were feeling while we walked around the mountain trail, the mystical nature and the beautiful animal world, it created in us a strange peace, serenity and satisfaction. Simply, we were enchanted by that vicious circle.

Our journey has continued on towards La Galapagera Cerro Colorado, the Giant Turtle Growing Center. Our fantastic Flintstones Jeep once again turned a history page and chased down the street as through the Hanna-Barber studio, but fortunately not being driven with feet. Galapagos turtles are one of the largest and most difficult reptiles in the world. They’re so big that they can be ride. Although we were not been in situation to try this madness, I believe that it is not easy to hold on at her shell. For some of them nobody knows how old they are, who knows maybe there is any who met Darwin and his captain FitzRoy. Walking through the reserve, we had the opportunity to acquaint themselves with the complete program of breeding turtles, from collecting eggs in a dark box to growing up and moving into their natural environment. Slow metabolism and large water supplies allow them a yearly survival without meals and drinks. There is something they particularly enjoy, that is long-term sleeping so Peter obviously was jealous on them. As time went by, we had to say goodbye from these, on the one hand, the synonyms of slowness, laziness and inactivity as well on the other, symbols of wisdom, longevity and patience, and move on.

San Cristobal is not only described by sea lions, turtles, and impressive landscape but beautiful, relaxed and very friendly people, most of whom live from hospitality and fishing. And so, this afternoon, we had the opportunity to be guests at a private farm of one such family what is actually aroused in us a lot of interest. Winding, dusty road, full of holes, was like created for our cheerful Flinstons’ group while we were, as potatoes, bouncing on the seats. At the entrance through the gate, the host and his wonderful grandson were welcomed us with a smile and a shout “Hola”. We were thrilled with the flowering garden that it was surrounded us, while the shade has been a real oasis after of walking around the lake and through Galapaguera Center, under the worst heat. The farm tour was very interesting. Everything was on this estate, how the vegetables that we also eat, salads, carrots, cabbage, sweet potatoes…. so, as well as tropical fruits of different shapes, colours and flavours.  Even though they were piled disorderly without rows and well-structured field of fruit trees, everything was tailored and in a function. Accompanied by the host, we passed beside bananas and trees full of clusters of green platanas, in whose crown of the tree, we found refuge in hiding from the sun. While we enjoyed, on the one hand, in the fruits of naranjilla, small orange with sour taste, from the bush on the other hand pineapples were smiling at us. It is interesting that all these fruits, in spite of the hellish heat in which they grow, juicy, refreshing and full of vitamins and minerals. Enjoying the dates and papayas, without which that farm would not be what it is, its has fulfilled all our expectations, while the trees are home grown organic coffee, beside which we stood, were really beyond them. It was so pleasant that I had
unsuccessfully tried to befriend with ducks.   What a cross-country race this should be involving Dino and Pipo. Maybe the chasing could bring them to the main role for the new premier of the film “Collectors of Feathers”. Upon his return, thanks to the hostess, we enjoyed a fantastic prepared and very delicious lunch. At the departure I bought a
package of homemade coffee I was adding to our collection. In the company of their dog germanshiper, on the way back, we visited El Corro waterfalls, near the farm. The water was cold but I could not resist, I had to get wet. The day slowly had come to the end, as did our tour.  We said goodbye to these nice people who our stay among them done more valuable than just visiting the farm. Driving toward Baquerizo Moreno, we sweetened with the sweet fruits that we received as a gift. From the dock, with the first available taxi we drove to the ship. Fragrances that have greatly spread around Meermowe were not been from roast pork in the oven or of the cake. We were aware that we had to wash the boat urgently. Feeling the negative vibrations, our cute sea lions shortly disappeared and for us did not stay anything other than take the broom and clean the deck.

To be on the Galapagos and not peek into his underwater world, it is same as if you are coming to Paris and do not see the Eifel Tower. Going to Diving early in the morning was full of adventurous spirit, challenges, excitement, unusual encounters, and discovering new places. Beach Las Loberias, not far from Baquerizo Moreno, was a paradise for watching turtles, tropical underwater and swiming through the large and dense flocks of fish. The role of the host of the Gulf, has taken over Iguana, presenting this fascinating coastline and untouched nature as its home and the best place to enjoy. Because of their black color they have another name “dark devil”. They are very interesting, at the same time sweet and ugly and are a true illustration of the time in which dinosaurs walked the world. Returning to the city at the main pier we boarded the ship where we are, on the way to Kicker Rock, have got lunch.   Was that because of hunger or well-prepared meals, I don’t know, but we melted in the taste of everything that was served. Kicker Rock or in Spanish Leon Dormido is an island with two steep cliffs that remind of the lion, which they almost vertically descend into the sea and merge in the depths. It is not only suitable for crawling bird colonies, but also for the wild underwater world. The ship stopped near of passage between the rocks how we could jump from its platform into the sea, and then he sailed around the cliff and had anchored in the calm waters on the other side. The sea current was quite strong, and the sea has been dark and cold. My husband did not want to jump first, but when it came his turn, he did it fast while his brain did not realized what he was done. At that moment he had a wish to be frozen in the flight and so remain in the air above the water or perhaps, before crash in the sea that someone gets him into a quilt, three blankets and several of hot thermos. It was such as in cartoon. When he emerged out on the surface, I did not even try to decipher comments of him because I knew in advance what the writer had wanted to say. I just smiled softly, simply jumped and was joined the group. Kicker Rock was the real pleasure for diving. Visibility was excellent, all the way to the sandy bottom of the canal, through which has been passing flock of the white sharks. With the individuals it could easely meet face to face, what has happened to our friend from another group, while he carefreely was swimming along the rock, in the same direction as the “Rodjer”. Not knowing for one other, they appeared on the end of the cliff each on his side then as a magnet attracted and closely collided. Both of them were confused and speechless, it scared one from other and fled in reverse, each on their own side. Was it vegetarian Moby? Who knows, it does not matter any more, important is that this funny horror will become impresiv tale to the end of the life. The time went by in the unbelievable feeling of the freedom of socialising with colorful fish of the reef and observation of the mystical cliff full of algae. Peter has already jumped into a dry and warm clothes when I climbed on the platform of the ship so how he was feeling cold, neither in madness, he did not want to pull off again on a beach Puerto Grande where did we stop on the way back. So, enjoying in the beautiful scenery, our visit to the white bay was ended with a long walk through sandy dunes. Returning to town, we stopped at the restaurant to drink a cold beer and juice then by the taxi, was back to the ship. That evening, on our great surprise, Meermowe has been completely lonely at anchor.   At the beginning, for the change, it suited us, but after some time we felt very strange, so we went to sleep with the question: “Where are our friends, whom we missed? We left San Cristobal the next morning about ten o’clock in the direction of Isabella Island. By hiding behind the fenders, along with us was embarked one small and to us well-known adventurer so let this to be ours as well as your secret. We will pretend we do not even notice him, and if someone asks you for him, say you did not see it.

As adventurers and lovers of the sea, Peter and I, we had and still have a lot of dreams. One of them, probably most, was to cross the oceans and sail around the world, while the passage of the Panama Canal, in front of which we just were, certainly deepened our dreams and turned them into unique and unrepeatable experience anywhere in the world.

That afternoon, Meermowe left the Shelter Bay Marina with a crew of five members fulfilling the requirement of independent transit. Steve Barrett and Steve Parker, our friends from the ship Waterman and surfer Tom that is of Croatian origin, who was travelling and surfing through countries of Isthmus Panama, were a fantastic team who helped us to cross the canal. With them, we share all our feelings, happiness and excitement. Late in the afternoon we sailed in Lake Gatun. We anchored at the location from which we boarded the first pilot who led us through this part of the canal. Numerical strength of our crew was reason enough to use the waiting time to prepare dinner. For this occasion, I chose for something simple, quickly and abundantly, stuffed peppers in tomato sauce and mashed potatoes. For dessert, I baked pancakes stuffed with cottage cheese, sprinkled with chocolate. Smells that were spread from Meermow’s magical cauldron are created the mouth water and opened the appetite.  I enjoyed the atmosphere and mood that prevailed on board. Everything was ready, while beer, wine and rum already cooled in the refrigerator.

Panama Canal is long about 80 kilometers. Its construction began Frenchman Ferdinand de Lesseps, who are lack of money and incurable disease, prevent in its completion. Further construction work were took over Americans, successfully connecting the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific, after which, over a hundred years, through the Panama Canal sailed the first boat. From that, a hundred years of heavy historical crate, I would earmarked a very interesting story about the achievement of the American adventurer Richard Halliburton, the first man who, swam the entire length of the canal. Going through the chamber, due to their weight he was considered as “the lightest boat”, on the basis of which he paid the lowest fee for the crossing that ever paid, amounting to 34 cents.

The pilot arrived with motorboat shortly before six o’clock. We could not believe how much he looked like Raul Castro. Using the knowledge and experience he immediately took command of the ship. Ropes and fenders, as instructed, were placed on either side of the deck, attached to bollards and ready for use. Twilight had already started to fall when we left the anchorage and headed towards
Gatun Lock. We moved slowly in the convoy of ships, aligning a row one after the other. Surrounded by giant freighters and tankers, it seemed we were less than what we are.

Crossing the canal, from the Caribbean to the Pacific, altogether takes about 24 hours. The canal consists of three sections chambers, Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores in two independent directions. Locks are working on a very simple principle, raising the ships for 26m on the level of the artificial Lake Gatun and then lowering to 26m at sea level.

The lights at night were becoming closer and bigger. A few hundred meters separated us from the door. Shortly before entering the lock, we waited for two boats that have followed us, in order to connect with them in a single unit. Peter did not hide his excitement and joy, which are like fireworks emanating from him. “This is exactly what we wanted and what we will do now”, was his message addressed to my view. Finally, at the default beep, heavy doors were started to be as on the viking-castle, widely open. Holding the required distance from a large merchant ship in front of us, we slowly walked into the first chamber. Pilots were synchronized to manage the movement of our boats and work of people on board. Immediately upon entering, officers on the walls of chamber, who joined us on either side by two, threw to us thin lines with which they are fetched our ropes from bow and stern that they are used to manage and control the distance from the ends.

Unlike sailing boats, special cables that towed electric locomotives called “mulas” drive merchant ships. They are named after animals that have traditionally been used to cross the Panama Canal. Delight had expanded through the deck on all three sailboats as infection. Like the paparazzi I used all of our cameras, in desire that with all of you who sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure, we share this unforgettable atmosphere. It was extremely, and even bits frightening when were the heavy door closed behind us. It reminded on the detainees in prison, which will free Robin Hood or perhaps Three Musketeers. Suddenly, large amounts of water have begun to charge the room. Turbulence and eddies they were felt all around us. For every transit needs millions of gallons of fresh water, with which, by the system of pumps from the artificial Lake Gatun, chamber fill up in less than ten minutes. By raising the boat to the required level, the door of the second chamber is opening and the principle is repeated. In the third lock, we rose to the level of Gatun Lake when we, with own drive, stepped in its tropical waters, release the rope from the other boats and tied to a huge buoy. Dinner was divine. Our Castro, enjoying the flavors, simply was melted with pleasure, which is why he regrets that the next day was not in our shift, to lead us on.

The evening was beautiful, quiet and peaceful. With the smell of white coffee that was spread through the cockpit, we enjoyed the pleasant company, but not for long, because we had to get up early. With a birth of a new day should arrive the second pilot.   Everything was ready but he was not in sight. The remaining two boats are had long since sailed. We were left alone as the orchestra without a conductor. The atmosphere and mood were on the level while waiting time has seemed endlessly. At the right time and the right place, just like a priest, with the scent of oregano, which was spread with the first baked pizza for lunch, our dear pilot appeared, who stayed with us until the end of the transit. Just after eleven o’clock in a hurry we were left buoy. It took as soon as possible to pass Pedro Miguel, get to Miraflores Lock up to four hours in the afternoon and prepare for the descent into the Pacific. Diversity of this part of the canal, made our transition even more exciting. Lake Gatun was once the largest artificial lake in the world. The rainy tropical forests surround it while in its central part there is exotic Barro Colorado Island that we passed with cries of monkeys, which have been coming from the surrounding jungle. To our satisfaction, certainly were contributed and crocodiles, who have swam along the Chagres River, the largest tributary of the lake. For some of them the only head was visible. Looking at them, I felt something as shudder, while in Dino and Pipo was awoke Crocodile Dundee. They were that much entered the spirit of everything what they saw, that they were nearly landed over the ship. I can imagine to feathers and sponges would flew on all sides to them is one of them picked up. With their mischief and playfulness, are completely conquered our crew. Passing through the narrowest part of the channel Culebra Cut at Gamboa, we got the new vistas to the terraced hills and Freedom Bridge, under which we passed. The beauty of its line and attractive structure amazed us. Recalled the San Francisco. We approached the Pedro Miguel Lock, and tied for the same sailing boats with which we passed through Gatun. Entering the room, as with water elevator, we descended down to the level of Miraflores Lake, in wich we sailed with great expectations. Behind us, with a snail’s pace, was moving gigantic ship. With curiosity and disbelief we watched his entry into the Miraflores Chamber. An impressive six centimetres, on each side, were separate him from the walls. It was a fascinating scene, in front of which Peter felt like a cockroach that could be crushed at any moment. The liveliness of the lock, gave many passengers with tourist ship, from which have arrived amazing comments directed to the Meermowe as a sailing boat and questions of curious about our adventurous venture. Originally, we were tied to their ship and then untied and merged with another boat in a block of two. Sailing into the final chamber, we find ourselves face to face with the last door. Two baskets full of cold beer, wine and champagne, we brought out on deck and they were ready to celebrate. Pacific, the only thought which occupied all our senses. We stared at the heavy doors as in the celestial miracle. Level of water on both sides finally equalized. Sound signal, on which the door began to open slowly, believe me, was quieter than the heartbeat in our chest. The door finally opened. We moved forward and while the foam of beer spilled over the cans, we were bravely face with the new challenges of the Pacific. Night has already fallen when we’re at Balboa passed under the beautiful Americas Bridge towards the Isle of Flamenco. The road link such as breakwater which connects it to the mainland, is made of rocks extracted by digging the Panama canal and therefore is called Amador Causeway. We dropped anchor near the marina and thus joined our group. Our crew, that same evening, dispersed and again we were alone. Next three days anchorage and this city were our new home, so we decided to visit the most attractive places in the city and learn about its culture.

With the new morning, dawned the new excitement. Ship ropes and buoys, which we used in transit, we had to bring to the reception of the marina.  The chances do it on the choppy sea and under the wind with our small dinghy, were very small. Friends have diverged and we are, like Lolek and Bolek, started unwise to think how to perform it. Ropes we were threw in and throw out of the dinghy, tried with different combinations, but there was no help. Whatever that we tried the boat was small. Suddenly, my husband yelled, “come on, that’s enough fooling”. I knew that his blood pressure had risen to red so immediately I sat into the dinghy, how he could throw me out, on the coast and then returned to the ship. After about half an hour, while I was sitting and waiting for him in a small cafe, there was a clamor, noise and laughter. I looked in the direction of a group of people, our yachtsman, who gathered in ever-greater numbers, pushing each other is to be closer to the fence. I decided to see what it was. The scene was brilliant. With a big smile on the face, like Speedy Gonzales, my husband was chasing in the dinghy over the waves, surrounded by ropes and buoys like a fugitive from a swarm of bumblebee’s females. It was missing the only Mexican shout “Yarriva, Yarriva”.   “He who can gets two”, is an old adage. Through a very short time, Peter has gained great popularity. Steve Barrett, who was part of our crews through the Panama Canal, made the picture you see. If would that lasted a little longer, who knows probably this picture could be on the pages of Panamanian Newspapers or on TV. In the end, we were quite happy and with the idea to compete for the best image, “Around the World” ARC 2015/2016. That afternoon we drove by taxi to Panama City, Ciudad de Panama or as it is popularly called “Little Miami”. Pleasant and friendly people, a weird mix of new and old, richness and extreme poverty one beside other, piles of garbage and beautiful nature, certainly describe this city. The modern metropolis and old town are two totally separate mid designed for themselves. It was for us a unique experience beyond expectations.  Upon the recommendation of taxi-driver, we disembarked in the center of the old town of Casco Antigo. His, red brick paved streets lead us to the Square of Plaza Cathedral. Everywhere, renovated buildings in pastel colors with decorated balconies and beautiful courtyards surrounded us. Mixtures of Spanish and French architecture disclose their authenticity and give them a special charm. The main square is surrounded by historical buildings in the shadow of beautiful Tabebuia trees with pink flowers. Plaza Catedral from time to time, is used for musical performances, fairs of food and clothing, on which also expose Kuna Yalla handicrafts from the island of San Blass Archipelago. Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria la Antigua de Panama, known as the Metropolitan Cathedral, was immediately captured our attention. This old Roman Catholic Church is one of the largest in Central America. On each side of the main entrance, there is white tower decorated with mother of pearl from islands of Las Perlas Archipelago. Dark brown stonewall and wooden door give her the appearance of very interesting building. We planned to take a peek inside it but unfortunately it was not open to visitors.

Walking through the city in the unbearable heat, it should proclaim as sports’discipline. Thirst that we were feeling was turned into a mirage, which was captivated us like a virus. While we cried to for large mugs of cold drink with lots of ice, Jugo Juices shop, appeared before us as commissioned. Without thinking we stepped inside as wilted tulips. Fortunately there were no crowds and the two big cold fruity happinesses, based on beetroot and banana, soon they became a pleasant reality.

Casco Viejo is full of very interesting stories related to his past and a time when Panama was, in search of gold, the main attraction of pirate attacks. Whether crude robbers or not, all of us in some way, we love to listen about the pirate’ adventures and feats, of which have lived and all what one pirate makes different from the common man. One such story is located in the Cathedral Iglesia San Jose that was very intrigued us, so we walked toward of San Filipe suburb, how we would investigate her. The church is known for it massive golden altar called “Altar de Oro” what means “Golden Altar”, which survived a pirate attack and remained preserved. This impressive structure is not really made of pure gold, already carved mahogany covered with gold leafs and flakes. At that time the altar was located in one of the churches in the first city of Panama, “Panama Viejo”. During the attack on the town of English pirate of Henry Morgan, the Jesuits are, in fear that they could lose it, painted the altar in black, to hide gold. Not suspecting that they are outsmarted, pirates have left intact the altar in the conviction that it is worthless. After the Morgan looted and burnt “Old Panama”, the altar is relocated in the new church at its present location.

After the successful rescue of the altar, we decided to sit down somewhere and save ourselves from starvation. We opened the glass door of a beautiful, modern and very elegant restaurant that we got in the way.  Its name we did not registered because we were too occupied with lunch and intoxicating scents. It was a real refreshing oasis on the saharan temperature that ruled outside on the street, in a very pleasant and relaxing environment. Panama has no traditional cuisine but dishes are very tasty and made with fresh ingredients, while the service is more than quality. Bottle of cold red wine we ordered, appetizer and salad of calamari, soon were served at our table. After lunch we were back in function, ready to confront with the sun, as Don Quixote with the windmills, and move forward.  Between Casco Viejo and the Canal is located a very rusty and the unsightly part of the city. The streets are full of garbage, stench and drunks, which are lying in the sidewalks. It is characterized with poverty and misery, shops full of nothing and tables that offer rotten fruit. The district is prone to protests and manifestations of discontent, what did not surprised us. Although we felt very embarrassed, we passed these streets, where under open sky, takes place everyday life. Barbers doing shave and haircut in the street while people wait for their turn, dentists extracting teeth in the partially destroyed house for $ 5 while consultations are free of charge. As our son Pedja said, “more misery and poverty means better experience the city”. True, there is something in it, even though it seems that we do not have being here to look for. We left this idyll and were headed toward the French Park, which was built as a memorial on the extremely large number of French workers who have lost their lives in the construction of the Panama Canal. Geometric is designed and has a unique panoramic view of the Amador Causeway and modern metropolis. In the evening we returned by taxi to the marina. Sea and wind were calmed down so we absolutly dry have managed to arrive on the ship.

Panama City is known for its shopping. Although we had planned just restore food supplies, which are in Shalter Bay in Colon, mostly ended up in the trash, we decided the next day to go to Allbrook Mall, one of the largest in the city. Shopping center is located about twenty minutes drive from the marina. We went out from taxi in front of the main entrance. In the mall was ruled sparkle. Next to large giraffes, entertainment park and little tourist train for a ride through the shopping center, I melted like chocolate in the sun. We noticed that the prices are affordable and everyone can find something for themselves. Peter had immediately, like a burdock, been glued for the sports shop “Hunting and Fishing” and bought a 2mm thick cable stainless steel, that it is fish would not bite through. He was that much happy so is two hours after that just talked of her, as about an ingenious solution. Accidentally that I had not recalled him to buy plastic container for diesel, he would even forget that we need it. Finally we come to the supermarket where we bought food and drink for further journey on Galapagos. The rest of the days, we used for rebuild fishing equipment in marina shop. Believe me, Panama is an ideal place for it. Everything was so cheap that we could not believe it. We have used a chance and bought ten new seductive baits in front of which, our pets like in front of a registrar, are could just say “YES”. Before returning to the ship, we picked up our passports and the necessary papers to leave the country. The next morning was marked by preparation for departure. One after the other the anchors were lifted from the sea. We were left the Flamenco in the direction of Las Perlas Archipelago, the last destination in Panama.

The trip was short and very pleasant for sailing. Contadora Island is one of over two hundred islands in the group, located in the Bay of Panama. The name of archipelago comes from the time of the Spanish conquerors that discovered the islands and large quantities of pearls on them. It used to be a “place to go” just for the rich and famous. Except members of Panamanian government, here were staying Christian Dior, the former Iranian Shah, John Wayne, Sophia Loren and many others. Las Perlas it also was the place where were filmed three seasons of TV series “Survivor”. For us this was a tropical paradise full of enjoyment, excitement and nominations, beautiful white sand beaches and friendly people always ready to meet when needed. When I think like a sailor then this is the ideal place to stay before sailing to the Galapagos Islands. In the afternoon we anchored in the Bay of Playa Cacique. By radio-link we reported Rally Control about arrival and we decided to the end of the day to stay on the board. With this beautiful specimen, Peter was once again proved its fishing virtuality. After dinner I ended up some more jobs how would we had as much as possible of fun and exploration next day.

Beautiful morning with the sounds of waves, promised a day of enjoyment. Beach bathed in sunshine, which stretched in front of us, simply called us from the boat. After a good breakfast, we took the dinghy and drove on ashore. The boat we were well secured from the tidal waves and headed for the trail to Villa Romantica, located on a hill just above the beach. The restaurant is first league with a large panoramic terrace, where from a beautiful view of the anchorage. In the parking lot next to the entrance, there were a couple of parked electric cars to golf courses. Immediately we rented one of them and as kids looking for adventure got into it. The winding road we raced downhill and uphill, what was this enjoyment. Laughter to tears especially when was, near the airport ended up asphalt. Surrounded by dust, with cobblestone we arrived to the largest beach on the island, Playa Larga. We stopped in a deserted and totally ruined hotel complex Contador. Although in the ruins, you can still sense the beauty of the former appearance. “The owner of the complex was killed in a plane crash, leaving the business to the large debts,” was the only information that we got. Let’s say so, but all together it looked like the narco calculation. We walked a bit along the beach, where there is also a stranded cruise ship. For sure, he is also covered with a veil of secrecy that we have not had time to discover. We have rather stayed in our happy and playful reality, so we moved on. Going through the woods, with beautiful houses and estates, we stopped in a few other bays, between which one is attracted us the most, Playa Dimaggio. The island has a few mini markets with a very small offer and shocking prices. In the immediate vicinity, we sat in a cute cafe, refresh with a beer, coffee and cakes then we returned to the Villa Romantica. We enjoyed this ride, as well in the wind, which was cooling us. We had plenty of time, to do another circle around the island and discover some new places that we missed.

With dinner on the beach, we said goodbye to our hosts. During the awards ceremony crews with the best time for sailing on this leg, the crew Meermowea was appointed to the best team with the most enjoyment in sailing. We could not believe our ears until we realized that it was about us. On this occasion we got a bottle of quality wine from Panama, which we immediately opened and shared with friends at our table.   The problem of returning to the ship is turned into a fun and laugh. Namely, frequent waves did not allow us boarding in the dinghy, by constantly returning it to the sand. We had to go into the sea to the waist, hit the right time between two waves and jump into the boat. My husband had succeeded at the second attempt, while I was still jumping and rolling around, struggling to get into the dinghy, before the waves pushed us back. In the last minute Peter grabbed me for pants, threw in like a sack of potatoes into the dinghy, turned on the Penta and ignited toward the ship. We were wet and full of sand. From laughter we could not close the mouth. It was genuine madness. The next morning we raised the anchor, set sail from the Isle of Contador and definitely left that marvellous country of Panama.  All that was left behind us is this sandy message. The course was leading us toward Islands  of Galapagos.

For many participants the group of cruisers, with which we crossed the Atlantic Ocean, Saint Lucia represented the end of the rally and had already long parted our separate ways, leaving a furrow memories of a wonderful friendship in which we all breathed together as one and had a common goal, to win the Atlantic. Party meeting with the new group of sailors, which we joined and marked the sixth anniversary of the ARC Round the World Rally 2016-2017, was spent in a beautiful and friendly atmosphere with hot salsa rhythms. We had two more days to start. Although we felt completely ready for the beginning of a new and apparently demanding adventure, we still could find the little things to fix.

We set sail with great impatience. Back to the sea, was the thought that ran through our veins, mental food that we gave life and bird in flight, when her wind hits the chest. It was a thought full of pride and happiness that we felt while stood on the deck and watched the forest of white sails with the other vessels, which surrounded us as we descended down the west coast of Saint Lucia, sailing toward open sea of the Caribbean Sea.

Never in our life we haven’t dreamed that we would ever visit Columbia and all of our knowledge about it, we were picked up with the TV or from the papers. A large number of active volcanoes and frequent earthquakes, make her as fiery land of Pacific, tropical rainforest region of the Amazon, the high Andes mountains and prairie plains, in many documentaries, describe it as a place that arouses interest and curiosity, while my favorite movie “Romancing The Stone”, displays her as adventurous country full of romance. The world-famous first-class coffee “Juan Valdez” certainly promises an irresistible pleasure in its taste and smell, while the name of the most notorious criminal in its history and the leader of the most powerful drug-cartel, Pablo Escobar, presents her as a country of crime and drugs. As I thought about Colombia, the compass led us right to the Cape Gallinas and Peninsula De Guajira.

The day was beautiful with the wind perfect for sailing. It was one of the most comfortable trips by then. Completely calm sea and ideal wind 15-18 knots, woke the sailing passion. Meermowe was simply sliding surface of the sea as with the skates on the ice. Even the world famous skater’s names on skating, such as the Russians’ couple Protupopov, were not our level. Their virtuosity on the ice we replaced with triple fishing twists and fishermen’s complains. Suddenly and unexpectedly, the well-known biting sound of nylon Zzzzzzzzzzzz …, which turns into the most beautiful note, once again sounded and passed through our ears. That we after several months of navigation have seen the land, we would not be such happy, but we would probably even missed it, when it comes fish. All the senses we have given to these pleasures of duel. Twitches and the way in which our beauty moved through the water they said that it was a new species. Indeed, it was a long, flat fish dark gray and white color with vertical stripes heavy 8.5 kg. After some time, a mysterious dandy there was in safe hands and quickly became the star of the day, but not for long. Its resemblance to a barracuda, which differs only their short vertical lines and the realization that she might be infected with various viruses that picked up by eating small animals of coral reefs, they created dilemma at Peter. In a conversation over radio station with a crew of other ships, even more so, it was confirmed that in the case of barracuda longer than a meter that does not we reserve for possible infection. Assuredness ruled. “Roger” has exceeded a length of 125 cm, so we were happy to get him back into the sea while he was still alive. But this glorious and dangerous fishing story full of viruses experienced its peak and ended a few days later after arriving in Santa Marta, when we saw the fishermen carrying three completely identical “infected fish” in first-class restaurants. At that moment, we found out that this is a first class and very tasty fish of Wahoo. I just closed my eyes and stayed with no words. Returning back the movie I felt “Roger’s” closeness.

Looking Wahoo how happy loses in depth, we decided to have a coffee and enjoy the rest of the day. While Pipo was resting in the sun, Dino enjoyed the view of the sea observing fishing rod. The water just started to boil when Dino began yelling “Fishhhhhh…, Fishhhh… Hurry up”. So much was screaming that we have not heard the buzzing of nylon. Removing water from the fire, hastily I went out and really nylon was difficult hauling. “There will again be an epidemic,” teased the Dino. But this time twitches were recognized, it was a “blue tail” tuna. Soon we found ourselves face to face with Peter’s favorite fish that was real excitement and happiness, and Dino was not indifferent while it’s beauty has won its look and charm.

Further journey we spent enjoying in the sun, play, everyday obligations as well as romantic sunsets and sunrises. Fifteen miles before Punta Aguja it looked as if we were mistakenly sailed into another story. Weather conditions have drastically changed. A cold wind and the sea simply went on a rampage and watered us from all sides. It seemed that we are in the vortex that we do not move from the place. As it were, for us, Santa Marta simultaneously has been so close and so far. In that swirling, gusts of the wind have ranked the volume up to 35 knots while the sea foamed and pounded on the nearby cliffs. We moved stormy shortened sail until we went into Punta when the wind and the sea have began to calm down. We crossed the finish lane early in the morning and sailed into the marina of the oldest city in Columbia and successfully bind to the pier “F”.

Santa Marta is the first established place in Columbia. It is situated in the Bay on the coast of the Caribbean Sea at the foot of the mountain massif of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The popular beach of Playa Blanca, extends along its coast. The city is not characterized by clean streets, but stands out a rich and ancient history, colonial architecture, beautiful beaches and national parks, which certainly reveals the beauty of this country. Promenade along the waterfront is not full of floral aromas, abundant with large sculptures of human figures that express the weight of life and the struggle for life as well as vividly and a lot of people in the evening.  That first night we arrived, effusive of the walker’s river, we enjoyed the atmosphere that surrounded us. Handicrafts, clothing and footwear were offered on mobile tables and trolleys at every step, while the smells cooked food and chorizo sausages with barbecue spread all around us. It looked expensive and unattractive and so we were not too disturbed after a very tasty tuna with spinach and lettuce as I prepared for dinner. In Santa Marta, we stayed pretty short, only four days, so we tried to maximally use the time to get to know the city and its surroundings.

My husband and I, frankly, have never been big fans of visiting a museum, and especially not in the heat and sultriness in the broad daylight. Never say “never” because the Museum Del Oro Tairona, with whom we met as part of an organized visit the next day, we were very interested. It is located in a beautiful colonial villa known as Casa de la Aduana, which means the customs office. The museum is not only living story of the history of the development of the people and city of the time, but a treasure of interesting collections of objects Tairona. These are mostly ceramics and gold, which were decorated men and women, describing their life, death, ceremonies and rituals. The most interesting part of the museum was about Simon Bolivar, the great unifier of Columbia, whose chronology of life, triumphs and his affairs, are the memory of the time in which he lived.  We were impressed by beautiful specimens of cactuses and iguanas in the Botanical Garden that is located as a part of his residence where he was living. The authentic look of buildings and things that he used, return it to life, while the museum and theater under the open sky are used for organizing various events. Bolivar clearly not lived “evergreen life”. His life was very tumultuous and spectacular. As a great womanizer and supporter of drinks, has famously died of syphilis, liver cirrhosis and tuberculosis. What can a real Don Juan ask for more? That evening, after returning to the ship, we decided to go out with friends for dinner. A wonderful restaurant in the city center provided us, with soft music, the intimate atmosphere and an intoxicating scent of grill, promising an enjoyable bite It was ten o’clock at night when we got happily back to the ship and went to sleep.

Discovering new spaces of Caribbean coast, companionship, entertainment and dinner on the beach, have described tomorrow’s day trip to Tayrona National Park. Bus full of sailors, our friends, left the marina at eight o’clock in the morning. The park is located about 34 km away from Santa Marta, and extends from Bahia de Taganke to the mouth of the Rio Pedras. Fortunately, the ride lasted a relatively short and finally forced our guide to turned off. He drowned us with his, from Kulin Ban memorized Tayrona prehistoric story, which has recited as a poem for Mother’s Day. The narrow and winding road led through a dry wooded area to one of the most beautiful beaches on attractive coast of South America, Bahia Concha. When we arrived, the white tents and a large round tables covered with white tablecloths were already prepared. Romantic atmosphere, white sand and crystal clear waters offered the unique charm and relaxation. Peter soon found his self in the shade with a good male company, relaxing with a cool beer and quality rum, while I could not wait to throw myself into the sea. This lovely and the surrounding hills protected beach, situated in a deep bay so I carelessly enjoyed all the benefits of the sea. Regardless of the heat, that natural beauty with no time has awakened the spirit of sport, without regard for age.  While some played volleyball in the water and instead of over the network hit on the ball over the rope of motor yacht tied for the coast, others were enjoying on the sand playing cricket. Clamor, noise, winding, sacrifice and celebration of every winning point, were spreads all over the place attracting curious people who gathered in ever greater numbers. Even a few of the owners of motor boats soon found itself in the sea, throwing himself on the ball, defending the colors of the team. Princes and princesses received new modern sand castles of 21. Century, with the Internet and satellites, fortresses and tunnels, and the youngest members of our group got happy moments in the world of imagination. The day was fictional. Time passed slowly and the smell of meat and sausages from the grill began to spread through the air. Before dinner I walked along the beach. I enjoyed watching people, their relaxed and smiling faces and children how safely and happily they jump and play with the waves.   So, carried away with, I did not even notice that I have reached the end of the beach.   Returning back, my attention was attracted by a group of people gathered around a local boy who was holding something in his hand while the group excitedly watched and commented. I walked up to them to see what it was. On his palm calmly stood blue crab. That was a fantastic and beautiful example, of how he said, poisoned crab. It is obvious that he knew how to hold it in his hand without being bitten. It was carefully lowered to the sand. The moment of his confusion I used to take a picture. Tayrona beaches are very rich by underwater world, so that, walking along them, there is big opportunity to see such a large crab. I had a very pleasant chat with Dave and saying goodbye to him, I went on. The smell of barbecue lured me all over, while an empty stomach had accelerated pace. Dinner and society at the table were great. There’s a saying “where you eat, be as closer to the kitchen,” so our table had managed to win a waiter who is his benevolence, instead of one allowed, showed by serving a double portion of the cake. The mood was on the level. The main theme for teasing of male composition was about the beach that was located near us, Playa Nudist, to which it can bring only a
sombrero, mask and fins. With laughter and like Mexican salsa hot comments, pretty soon we were greeted with the whole team of the host and left the Tayrona. Driving into the bus, in the late afternoon, happy, tired and full of impressions, we returned to the marina. It was a beautiful day and socializing that we will long remember.

Days went by like hours, and brought bad weather. Because of the stormy wind and rough sea, the Office closed the marina and banned any sailing out so our stay in Santa Marta extended for one day. It serves us well to take advantage of the time to go to the center to repair Peter’s bracelet wristwatch. A
series of minor and relatively empty block streets led us to the main street in the city where we were suddenly in bustle and merged with the river of people and traffic jams that ruled on the road. Buses like pomegranate full of people, cars, trucks, motorbikes, bicycles, trolleys with one or two wheels and everything that had a chance to roll, it was part of the urban chaos. On the streets there is nothing you cannot find. While are jugglers with oranges advertised orange juice on the mobile carts, on market stalls were offered, from street food and jewelry to small sewing machines, home appliances and tools. Santa Marta is not only the city of fiery colors expressed through the way they dress and making handicraft of fabric or knitted from the thread, but also a city of contrasts. In contrast to bright windows are unsightly holes and sheds crammed with a bunch of stuff garbage on the street. The atmosphere around us was very interesting and impressive. For hours we both could stand and record this city bustle. Columbia’s cuisine is rich in a wide range of foods, flavors and fragrances, depending on the area where it is served. From simple everyday tortilla with meat, seafood and vegetables, pizzas prepared in the fire, in which we ourselves enjoyed for lunch in the afternoon, to extravagant succulent crispy fried ants, Hormiga Culone, which are prepared south of Santa Marta, in Santander Department for those daring with a stomach hard as a peasant shoe. Services for the repair of watches was on the street. Trolleys, in which stood a young Colombian, were full of watches, hands, the springs, small screws, bracelets, as well as necessary tools. While Peter waited at his watch, I walked to a nearby shoe store and bought a very favorable sandal. As the day draws to a close, we are slowly walks back to the ship. In one moment, my attention was attracted by this dustbin, which I picked up with camera, as a great idea, how to take advantage of plastic bottles and decorate the city streets.

The morning was still quite windy. The weather began to calm down only about eleven o’clock when we got permission to sailing out. Meermowe has once again successfully crossed the start line, carrying us towards the dreamy islands of Panama, San Blass. Standing on the stern, I looked at Santa Marta as in a place that gave us a fantastic and memorable experience until we passed islet El Morro.

Saint Lucia was the crossroads of major events. Here there is, on the one hand ended the second stage Meermowe Great Adventure, our first trans-atlantic crossing across the Atlantic, while on the other hand, it is the door opened for new challenges of another marine wastelands called Pacific. All our senses are poured into the pride that gave us the strength to continue and indescribable happiness eagerly anticipated encounter with our son Pedja and his beautiful partner, our dear Marika.

Journey to the Rodney Bay Marina was a mix of sailing passion, defiance and love of the sea, as well as the struggle for survival. Using stern winds, most of times we sailed part sails in a butterfly with the help of tangun. With enhanced wind and waves the first half of the travel was with no problems. The greatest thrill of why our heart almost jumped out of the chest, prepared us a huge fish that are caught on the hook, but unfortunately, with all the effort that the drag closer to the boat, we had no chance to draw it out. By all accounts, it was not a goldfish with three wishes, what it would she fulfilled if we would take her off from the menu. Rather than compromise, the monster began with all his strength haul nylon so fast until it was unrolled to the end and disappeared into the sea. In Peter’s hand is steyed only an empty reel. While we are confused and in disbelief looked at each other, we were able to say just WOW!! Can you believe it! We still very often talk about that fish as about the great secret without answer, which only the sea knows.

As the days passed, slowly we approached Saint Lucia. Weather conditions were rapidly changed. While the waves, like a monster, rised to the height of solar panels on the stern, hiding us from the horizon of other ships, the wind was blowing in some places up to 46 Beaufort. So descending down the waves in the evening, along with the sunsets, it seemed to perish in the fiery chasm of hell. It was a complicated part of the trip accompanied by problems that were popping in front of us like rabbits out of a hat. Many enjoyments have been replaced with duties and increased activities on the board. Six days prior to entering into Rodney Bay broke us the pin that connects the hydraulic cylinder automatic pilot with helm. We had to react quickly, take the helm and steer manually, which can not have been easy. Struggling with the enormous power of the waves and the wind, which caused muscle pain in the arms and back, we took turns every two hours. Original spare part we did not have, so we quickly thought about what to do. We still had two hours until dusk. I was not doubted Peter’s ingenuity and resourcefulness. While he is in the lower deck turned over the things, the lamp was turned on. With great hope and smile on his face he climbed into the cockpit carrying two new debt replacement screws. Wasting no time, regardless of the rolling and the risk of injury, my husband crawled into the back bunker. During this time I managed the boat and played the apprentice of Hlapich, adding a tool that he is sought. The operation was successful, the green light came on and the automatic pilot was again brought back to life. Now, it was only a matter of time and the uncertainty of whether and how long this screw will withstand the pressure. Everything that we had that moment was the belief in the soul and happiness in our hearts while we are together with Meermowe sunk into the dark not knowing what awaits us during the night.

Even as a little girl, the December long winter evenings in Split, I enjoyed get wet my feet in a basin with warm water, eat hot fritters, which is only mother knew to do and watch a good movie. I did not think that I’would have this image in my mind during the night when I got up to check whether everything is okay. Stepping into the salon legs were found in the water just like in the basin. The shock that I experienced bounced off the cold water and like a boomerang has alerted my brain systems I turned on the lights, immediately called my husband and by testing the water we found out that it was a drinking water, wich was somewhere widely seeped. Sink in the kitchen was the first of our investigation. When I opened the closet door, I had what I see. Through the cracked pipe was gushing water. Excluding water pump to supply water from the reservoir, we were able to stop the further influx of water. Great luck was the fact that the water had not poured in the rooms. Knocking out carpets onto the cockpit, we immediately began to pump water and dry space. In the meantime, we controlled the work of the automatic pilot and endurance of the screw. As the wind and sea mercilessly toyed with us, with minimal intervention all worked flawlessly. Morning has long arrived when we, along with the smell of coffee, sat in the cockpit to relax and rest. Just at that moment through my senses came the wonderful smell of warm fritters and who knows what would still remembered that I did not flinch at the seriousness of Peter’s voice.

That life resembles a mexican and spanish soap operas, serials without end, Rosa Salvahe, Emperatriz or Slave of Love ……., was demonstrated by the new mysterious episode whose solution we did not know where to look. Bow left cabin was completely wet as if we had a shower in it. With all this madness, I remembered the song “Shipwrecked”, which I began to hum while we browsed through all the potential sites that would eventually penetrated water. The song is very funny, and most importantly, has brought a lot of laughter and teasing among us. Since we did not find anything, we were left with only one solution, take off our decorative tapicirung from the wall, which was a real hit. Behind upholstery were hid the clutch to drain water out using bilch pump. Hose through which we were pumping water out of the salon and “thrown out into the sea”, it was separated from the coupling and hung in the air, so that the pumped water poured into the room, BINGO.  We looked through the hole right into the sea as out the window on the island of Solta, through which the waves were also penetrated into the space. We immediately attached the hose to the coupler and secure it well. Everything happened as if in a bad dream, accepting the fact that there is always worse from worse.   Once again, firmness and perseverance in achieving our dream life, have helped us to overcome everything that got in the way before us. Seeing the land of Saint Lucia, full of pride and happiness, our great success decent we celebrated with a glass of champagne.

In Rodney Bay Marina, which was the ultimate goal of our trip, we sailed in the early hours of the morning, where we were, after 2150 nm welcomed by the sound of ship sirens, cold rum punch and a large number of crew members, our friends, with other boats. Wonderful ARC staff handed us a large representative basket of tropical fruit with a bottle of the original rum. The comforts of meeting was also contributed to this guy of bright colors, who also welcomed us and wished comfortable stay on the island.

Saint Lucia is a beautiful and peaceful island surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the crystal blue Caribbean Sea on the other. Life on the island is a relaxing at a slow pace while the locals very hospitable. Volcanic in origin while the climate and the natural beauty of wooded mountains, which stretch its entire length, described as a tropical paradise. The first inhabitants were the Arawak Indians, and was named after Saint Lucy of Syracuse by the French, first inhabited by Europeans.

Due to the Christmas and New Year holidays, which were getting closer as well as Pedja’s and Marika’s arrival, time to waste really is not any, the more so we have to, to their arrival, along with repair the rudder and welding the fence, clean and washed the boat then inspect and prepare all for further journey. A list task by priority has already been made. Because of the bad experience with hydraulic automatic steering mechanism, we also decided to install automatic pilot to wind ordered from England, which it has, during further trip, proved to be the best and most valuable toy on board.

Rodney Bay is a small town with very organized shopping centers away from the marina for about fifteen minutes. On the way to the grocery store is Medical School and Aquatic Center. Chain of restaurants and cafes stretches along the marina, while every Saturday there is the market of fruit and vegetable as well as souvenirs and clothing. Everything is very expensive but the bargain purchase can be done at half the price. In those days was celebrated the National Day. The evening before it was held the National Festival of Lights in honor of Saint Lucia. That night, with quiet music and undertone singing, ceremonial procession slowly moved from ships passing through the docks of the marina, carrying on his head decorative lights and illuminated boxes of seafood, followed by fireworks. Sitting in the cockpit we enjoyed this unusual and very interesting scene.

The international airport is located in the south of Saint Lucia, Vieux Fort. It is an hour and a half away by car. Rodney Bay we left by taxi for four hours before landing, with the intention that, by the way, we visit some of the popular attractions of this part of the island. The road that we drove, led by the shore and even a little bit is not resembled motorway. It was very bumpy, winding and full of holes. We drove up and down through the mountain range and enjoy the view on small quiet villages, fertile fields of mango and avocado and everything that makes this world so different.  Many houses were built of wood and corrugated metal sheets.

The first lookout point, at which we stopped, offered a view on Marigot Bay, the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean, where was filmed the original “Dr. Dolittle” movie with Rex Harrison in the lead role. This pristine beauty is certainly far more than the holidays for eyes. Most of the population of Saint Lucia is from Africa or is of mixed African origin with deeply etched history of slavery. Their hairstyles, way of dressing and noble qualities that adorn them, largely seem them interesting and different, therefore I was photographed them with particular interest to bring them closer to all of you who sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure. How the way led us all to the south, the road was becoming busier. Soufriere, at the time of French rule, the capital city of Saint Lucia, now a small fishing village, is situated in the beautiful bay at the foot of two volcanic massifs. Twins Pitons, as they are popularly called, are volcanic ranges that rise directly from the sea and are a World Heritage of Island. Covered with trees and lush vegetation while its base is rich with coral gardens. Of course, we did not miss the opportunity to visit the Diamond Waterfalls and Botanical Garden. Our time passed quickly in the pleasant company of our friend the taxi-driver. Approaching the airport excitement was increasingly growing. Flights from Atlanta landed on time. Meeting with Pedja and Marika was more than cordial and happiness knew no bounds. In Rodney Bay we returned by new road that led us to the eastern coast of the island. It was nearly eight o’clock in the evening when we arrived at the boat and with the tray full of creme-pie we welcomed the new crew of the ship Meermowe.

Wasting no time, I helped Marika to accommodate the cab and after dinner we went to bed. A visit to Castrie, the capital of St Lucia, was a treasure trove of events. The bus stop was located near the marina. Old, rusty and musty vans, with no timetable, full of people, were driving every five minute. Some of them appeared to be ramshackled and seemed as though they would fall apart before arrivel to our destination. In less than an hour we stood near the main market, between Peynier and Jeremie streets that make up the heart of the city. Due to poverty and poor living conditions that characterize it, Castries is an energetic city beautiful colonial architecture which is dominated by vivid colors and smells of food. Finding in one of such environments together with Pedja and Marika is realy great experience and enjoyment. Great Market Hall was the first place that we have peeked into. From the abundance of handicrafts, garments and paintings that surrounded us, our crew is most enjoyed in its main attraction, the food. Luckily, they were not interested in buying eggs, otherwise we should, guarantee, and a peek into the chicken coop. From a large selection of Caribbean exotic spices, opted for medium spicy yellow sauce with peppers, from which my mouth and tongue were hot that I could play the roll of dinosaur Dino. It was unthinkable to leave this place and do not buy very tasty plunger coffee and Cuban cigars. Castries has a number of restaurants. With popular dishes made from fresh fish and lobster can be found and chicken dishes, pot stew and callaloo. The street food as well as and dirty and unsanitary holes filled with aluminum cookware, in which food are prepared, can be delicious and also served as in restaurants, although it does not look like that. We passed these narrow streets full of scents and tables, as Pedja says “if it’s more black and miserable that would be better because it is only way to experience the city.”  At the end of the street we sat at the table of a small “restaurant” to kill thirst. While we waited for the order drinks, we ordered, Pedja went to the toilet. After a long time, we saw him in a hurry toward the fence and laughing to tears, carrying an enormous bucket to grabbed seawater over the fence and washed after using the toilet. “Do it yourself” system has always provided great satisfaction. The toilet was so unsightly and small that everything what could fit in, was the toilet bowl and that bucket. We choked with laughter looking at him, while the owner of the restaurant deeply thanked him. If we had a little bit more rest, “enjoying the city’s soul,” he might offer him the job, you never know. Wherever he goes, Pedja has alwalys something funny to happen, it was only a matter of time. The hours passed quickly in a pleasant chat and laughter.

The old town is full of interesting things. Picturesque streets are full of people, while Derek Walcott Square is decorated with colorful buildings and borders the largest church in the Caribbean, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Interior of the cathedral is dominated by paintings by local artists. Life city also gives cheerful rhythm of the songs performed by street singers.  Late afternoon, happy, tired and cooked from the heat, squeeze we drove into the van to Rodney Bay. On the way to the place we passed local airport whose runway extends close to the cemetery.   What enjoyment!! We got off the bus in the center of Rodney Bay with the intention to buy a few things for the boat. Before the entrance to the supermarket, black guy who was bearing the shirt of the Croatian national football team, attracted us. No, we were not dreaming, the
national shirt with red and white cubes in the Caribbean, it was a surprise miracle. The guy was cool. Jersey got from his friend from Croatian and was delighted to take a picture with us. The world indeed seems to be less than we can imagine. With several bags in hands we returned to the ship.

The next morning, we set sail for Martinique, French paradise in the Caribbean. The weather was hot and windy. Marika was outstanding sailor. She quickly learned all the jobs on the boat. While Pedja enjoyed the role of skipper, she was our little from deck. With great pleasure I watched how she worked with ropes, preparing the fenders, lowered and lifted anchor and with the same passion and a smile on the face was scrubbing the deck, which is, certainly not strode past. Palm trees, volcanoes, french bread baguette and a croissant filled with chocolate, about which Marika was dreaming since arrival, certainly is definition of this modern and elegant island. It abounds in beautiful beaches, turquoise sea, distinctive vegetation and friendly residents. The island was discovered by Christofor Columbo, while Saint-Pierre, first established a settlement on the island, birthplace of Napoleon’s wife Josephine. In the distant past here lived cannibals called “Wicked Caribbean”. Using crosswind, Meermowe carried us with wind full sails on the course to the capital Fort-de-France and the corresponding Marina Poudrier, about 40 miles away from Rodney Bay. Rough sea and strong wind were disturbed our sailor and spoil her biorhythm and after a slight vomit, she looked like a canary Leopold in the run from the cat Tom, so the salvation was found in the bed where she’d rather dream about croissants. In the marina we sailed in the afternoon. Scrubbing the deck and landscaping ship was more effective than rum and our navigator came back to life.

Fort-de-France is a commercial center and largest city in Martinique. It is located at the end of a huge bay. Colonial narrow “gallery” streets characterize it. Wrought iron balconies, attractive fortress, Cathedral of Saint-Louis and Schoelcher Library, reveal the historical, while flowers decorated Savannah Park, romantic atmosphere. Already the next morning, we drove a taxi to the city center and followed up on the morning of seductive scents that spread from the bakery. Our infallible compass led us right to the original french croissants, mmmmmm … filled with chocolate. By the way, we bought two baquettes, which we planned to bring to the boat what was remained just a theory. Like gingerbread, they were simply melted in the mouth. We bought a few items in the shopping center, and headed back with the intention to sail to the bay on the other side, where we anchored. The beach that had stretched some distance from the ship, was simply attracted us, so Marika and I were decided to swim that part while Pedja has followed us by dinghy. We felt like on Hawaii. The warm sea and white sand are completely conquered us. While Pedja and Marika enjoyed in their own little world I watched the turtles at the bottom of the sea and emerged a beautiful starfish. Enjoyment and happiness knew no bounds as well as comedy and laugh as much as you like when was Pedja taught Marika drive dinghy. She was hurtling rapidly as Nicki Lauder in Formula 1, leaving a large furrow. Where they went no more turtle was gone. It is wonderful to have them on board, Peter and I were thought happily. Christmas was celebrated with a gala dinner, drinks and cake, enjoying the romantic sounds of the saxophone. With lunch in the restaurant the next day, we planned our further journey to the far south of the island, in Le Marin. At anchorage of Marine Le Marin, we sailed late in the afternoon where we decided to spend the night. Left to fishing pleasures, my husband is, that night was speed caught 12 fish the size of 250 grams. Serial were coming out one after another, as if they are competing which will take the bait before. We are all looked forward to tomorrow’s lunch, which was finger licking.  New Year, we welcome on board in a happy and singable atmosphere. Loud music, which echoed from Meermowea, attracted the neighboring sailors who were passing by, peering at us ship in curiosity to see what was happening. Marika and I danced until two hours after midnight, after which we went to sleep.

A seductive charm of the surrounding hills have inspired us, the next morning, rented a car and take a peek into their interior. A winding road led us through small picturesque villages, Gros-Morne, Saint-Joseph and Ducos, suitable for the cultivation of pineapple plantations, whose fields stretch as far as the sea, sugar cane and bananas. While the mountains are covered with tropical forests, the coast is decorated with beautiful bays. City of La Trinite extends to Caravelle peninsula and is the most beautiful part of the island of Martinique. On the way back we stopped in the small town of Sainte-Anne, which simply exudes french charm, to enjoy his most famous and one of, arguably, the most beautiful beaches in the Western Indis, Les Salines. We simply were melted like ice cream in the sun in this divine and romantic scene.

A visit to the Island of Martinique we ended up going to the diving, which was the crown of our tour. At that moment, I wished that time stops. It was the experience and excitement that will be long remembered. The next morning we set sail from the marina and a short time, we stayed close to one of the nearby beaches for a bit more swimming and enjoyment in the sea, after which
we left the island and sailed to Saint Lucia. In Rodney Bay we sailed in the afternoon. It was dawned the day of parting of our crew. It was difficult for us to look at their backs, while the taxi drove to the airport and increasingly more disappeared from our sight. Time spent with Pedja and Marika was, believe me, far more than this post. Upon returning to the ship, we continued with preparations for our next destination. Still we were only four days separated from start to Santa Marta in Columbia.

Travelling to Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canary followed the strong wind and high waves. We lost Bitanga on the horizon and once again remained persistent on its course. Meermowe is almost ideally, broke through the waves reaching speeds of up to nine knots. If we continue like this, we thought, in Las Palmas will sail in less than twenty hours. Life is really nice but due to the high stress sails under wind gusts we decided to shorten the sails in order to save the ship and ourselves from unwanted problems. In the capital of Gran Canaria, we sailed in the morning and tied for the pier where was already Bitanga. It was again one cordial meeting with Vanja, Mani and Bond.

Muejo Deportivo is the busiest place in this time of year in Las Palmas. On the occasion of the largest ARC regatta across the Atlantic to the Caribbean island, here they come, every year, hundreds of sailboats from around the world as members of one of the two existing fleets, racers and cruisers. In contrast to the group of cruisers, whose participant was Meermowe, which was sailing on the route Las Palmas – Mindelo, Cape Verde – St Lucia, Caribbean, a group of racing boats was launched two weeks later sailed directly from Las Palmas to St Lucia. This is also the city where they gather and boats that sail independently discovering a new world, as well as those who have repeatedly crossed over the Atlantic. For most of us amateur adventurers, who are obsessed with discovering distant lands on the other side of the pond, along a miserly sailing experience, made sure Jimmy Cornell, owner of the London-based magazine Cruising World, who in 1986 founded the first ARC transatlantic rally for cruisers. Since then, all participants, regardless of age, from start to finish accompanied by an organized control service. Since then, all participants, regardless of age, were monitored from start to finish by organized control service. To this end, I can not but mention a sailboat Corona AQ and skipper Peeke, the participants of the first ARC rally, which are along with a new crew, wife Barbara and a friend Thomas, again crossed the Atlantic this year in class “C” with the same enthusiasm and won victorious plaque and thus marked the thirtieth anniversary of the ARC. Is there anything more to say other than “want to be, want to do.”

Sailing into the Las Palmas three weeks before the start, we had enough time for preparation and tour the city. ARC office opens at the beginning of November, so we used the first two weeks for installation of boom for a genoa, change the berings on both steering wheels that are completely collapsed and check all the important points on the board. ARC office opens at the beginning of November, so we used the first two weeks for installation of tangun, boom for genoa sail, change the berings on both steering wheels that are completely collapsed and check all the important points on the board. Creating menus and preparing meals for a month of traveling seemed to me a great pleasure. I enjoyed watching how Peter immersed in the whole situation. Simply glowed with happiness and satisfaction. Vanja and Mani have also been tied up with work while the fish was attracted to Bond’s attention at which he particularly licked. We helped each other, the more so as Vanja sailed for Mindelo one week before. Final World Cup in rugby, which took place in late October, brought a lot of excitement among us. They played New Zealand and Australia. At the door of each pier was a poster with the match details. It was definitely something that even in a dream not supposed to miss. That evening we went to the Irish Pub “Sheehan”. The huge screen on the wall provided a cheering ambience and the indescribable pleasure of watching the match. When we arrived the pub was full of people. We managed to get hold of free space at one of the bar tables, where we had an unobstructed view of the screen. The atmosphere was apsolutely crazy. The New Zealand teams were played great and once again proved to be the best. We jumped, cheered, screamed and celebrated every “try” and me feel very proud of New Zealand and the flag that we sail under. After the game we were guests on board of our dear friends from Switzerland, Kim and Claudia where we are, with their two beautiful daughters Lenja and Neele joined Hallowind game. Ponton “S” was located right next to ours. Teemed with children with strident music, celebrating Halloween with creepy pumpkins, candles and scary costumes. While our friends have dresseds, I brought full bucket of candy and lollipops specially designed for the occasion. It was great even though the rain held off. You would found there Dracula who is under the full moon, with a knife and a bottle of wine in his hands, sought his victim with which to quench the thirst. The inevitable was the encounter with the Indian chief, the Mexicans and sombrero and colorful spiders represented by our friends. It was an hour after midnight when we returned to the ship.

How are the jobs coming to an end, and the time until the official program of the rally shortened, we decided to devote ourselves and curious wandering through the past of this city. The old center is located away from the marina so we drove by bus to the Plaza Mayor, where there is a large Gothic Cathedral of Santa Ana, built on the eve of Columbus’ big journey 1497 years. Opposite the Cathedral it was built the first town hall in whose vicinity there are historically significant monuments of wild dogs. My husband and I thought that the Canary Islands named after the canaries, as we have imagined, green islands full of canaries. Looking at these beautiful dog sculptures, on whose place in another city, could stand statues of famous people, we realized that we were wrong. At that time it was not at all canaries. The most numerous inhabitants of among animals were wild dogs, in Spanish, “Canes” from where derives the name, whose busts are located around the city.

Las Palmas is known for the famous sailor of all time, Christopher Columbus called Colon who is in his travels, in the discovery of new world stopped by in this town. In the oldest part of the city Vegueta there is completely preserved Columbus’ house that was built in the Canary colonial style in which he often stayed. There was also the seat of the first Spanish Governor of Happy islands. We were fascinated with the authentic look of the surrounding streets and buildings as well as the chapel of San Antonio itself where Columbus prayed for a good wind, and the success of his first race across the Atlantic.

The oldest harbor fortress Castillo de la Luz, light tower has built to defend against intrusion of Dutch and English pirates. It was set up on the foundations of wooden forts and was originally located on the ridge where he was influenced by natural tidal waves of the Atlantic. With later development of the port, castle is far from the ocean and became a part of the oldest section of the city. Square in shape and is now used as an exhibition center. It was interestingly knowledge about the exibition of Inquisition and instruments of torture, from the time Columbos’ travel. To disobedience and mistakes sailors were hanging in a cage on the cross mast or were stretched with winch anchored chain. No one came to mind to think of rebellion or conspiracy to captain. Who knows it might be something of this fun, with more modern methods, which could be made today on modern boats.

In the end, we sat tired and cooked from the heat, in one of the restaurants and ordered Caldereta, one of the typical fish portions and cold white wine. Enjoying the food and the kindness of the local population, we went back further planning Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

The official program started the next morning. Still we were only five days separated to departure. Meermowe was more than ready and thirty-cooked meals neatly arranged by plastic boxes and stacked in the freezer. Not lacking frozen berries, vegetables, cakes and ice cream. Delivery of large quantities of drink and drinking water we expected last day before departure. The days were filled with ARC program. There followed seminars, demonstrations rescue and evacuation, gathering sailors through joint dinners, lunches and other activities. The inevitable was the traditional festive farewell designated by the city authorities with a beautiful show program. Truly memorable. Dawned that day, a day that usually is called the day “D” when something significant and important has to happen. Today we sail, the only thought which occupied all of our senses. Excitement and happiness we shared with Dino and Pipo. The weather was quite windy and pleasant for sailing. Fifteen to one, Meermowe and his entire crew were ready in places. Releasing the ropes with cleats and waving crowd of people on the pier, we were among the many yachts, we spread the sails and on the sign of the salvo, successfully crossed the start line. We enjoyed the whole atmosphere, which could only display the painting brush. As a flock of white albatross boats are spread in all directions. From the very start we decided to sail in mid-channel in order to come close to as many African coast and used the favorable winds and stern waves. As we sailed under full sail during the day spread in the butterfly, at night, we are shortening. Peter and I were taking turns in duties every 4-6 hours. Sailing down the coast of Western Sahara wind brought us a large amount of desert sand from which all the ropes, sails and entire deck were yellowish brown. There was no time for boredom, we were always occupied with some activity that brings the fishing as number one. Waiting for something to bite, we sunbathed and showered with seawater, unusually warm for this time of year. The only shock that we experienced, but one of which we were jumping with joy, was when it fly in the cockpit large Dorado weighs 8 kg. I have no idea how we were able to raise it the ship. We stared at him as a wolf in Little Red Riding Hood and we could not believe it’s happening to us. Peter had him barely kept raised while I was taking pictures. In the afternoon, sitting with coffee we had fun watching the dolphins and flying fish, which are like planes descended on our deck and to Peter, who got one hit in the chest. In the evening, before going to sleep, we have found peace in the romantic sunsets. All in all, until we reached the first island of the archipelago of Cape Verde did not believe that we have already arrived. Through objective we passed between Cape Joao Ribeiro and rocks Ilheu Dos Passaros located, near Marina Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente. Happiness knew no bounds when we heard over the radio Vanja’s voice who was greeted us at the pier along with Bond and rest of team. Mani has traveled home for a month and we have invited Vanja that night on čevapi, baked potatoes and tomato salad.  Bond was looking at me cheerfully and pleadingly, as if to say: “Please do not ask me how I was, I’m still alive, and that’s enough”, enjoying your favorite and certainly a well-deserved meal.

Capo Verde Archipelago, for us, were the islands of surprises. As scattered pearls are located in the endless blue of the Atlantic Ocean across from Senegal. They were named after the westernmost tip of Africa Cap Vert.

In Mindelo we stayed four days and considering on the program did not have much time to waste. That same evening at the main pier at the entrance to the marina with a cocktail and music, we enjoyed a welcome party.  The next morning at seven o’clock we stood gathered in groups around the tourist guides and with the boat headed to an all-day tour of the second largest island of the archipelago, Santo Antao, only an hour away from the island of Sao Vicente. Volcanic in origin and is characterized by mountains, wind and water, subtropical climate and lush vegetation. Carlos, guide of the first group to which belonged to my husband and I, took us to the dock. The boat was crowded with people. We decided to look for a place on the outdoors deck in the lee, while some the wind protection were found out under the cap. We finally settled on a bench next to Susanne and Rita from Switzerland. In the visit to the island them brought a love toward hiking and conquest of walking trails. Our time has simply flown in good company. The van which we started our very interesting trip, has already waited for us on the pier in Porto Nova. Driving along the old road through the resort, with the interest we watched the mountain inhabitants of the region and their residence. Despite all the joys of life that provide these islands, on their faces was read the harsh and difficult past with no future. Namely, Capo Verde is one of the first centers where it was developed trade in black slaves from Africa called “Maafa” or “Great Desaster”, which means “Great calamity”. The slaves were transported to the colonies as free labor to work on plantations and in mines. Their centuries-long history is still felt in the air and, like a spider, generational interwoven their strings through their lives. Everything was reminde me on the movie “Twelve Years of Slavery”. Passing through the small village Lombo de Figueira, we reached the edge of the volcano Cova. Standing on the steep cliff, we enjoyed the view of the fertile valley over which they descended clouds in the form of mist and together with volcanic ridges they were reminded on a mystical age of the dinosaurs. One of the most beautiful places of the island of Santo Antao is located about Corda and Delgadingo mountains where we merged with a fascinating view of the valley Ribiera Grande. The houses they seemed to grow out of the mountain. In one of the villages we were served with the local rum, which Peter especially enjoyed. This sweet little girl from the picture, which was trying to protect herself from the cold by her scarf, on a cool and rainy day, was drew my attention. Leaving Corda to the capital of the island of Santo Antao, we drove almost vertically down the mountain range. The road was built of cobblestone, small granite cubes. Slaves built it in ancient times and going through Delgadingo Mountain dividing it into two parts. Frankly, we admired the diversity of the landscape of cascade fields’ mango, papaya, citrus and other crops to dry barren land and pine forests that stretched along the road.

City Ribiera Grande is located in the eponymous valley in a wonderful position overlooking the mountain range and the stunning scenery. In the city center there is a small square and the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosario. Embellishes it picturesque streets with small shops and restaurants. Opposite the church is a school from which is, just that moment, going to the church, came out a group of children led by the teacher, whose faces are decorated with beautiful hairstyles full of different hairpin. On the way out of town there is a playground for various sports activities. Driving along the coast, we arrived to the place Vila das Pombas, located in the bay, which is characterized by houses painted in pastel colors, while the north of town there is village of Synagogue, the former settlement of Jewish immigrants.

On the way, we stopped at a private estate along the road, where we were served a traditional meal of fish and candied mango, which is the hostess of the house prepared for us and with the local drink grogue, local rum, which has still been produced on the old way, destillation in the old furnace. Before leaving, my husband did not miss the chance to, like an old sailor Popeye, instead of the spinach buy a few bottles of the original rum. At ten minutes away and fifteen minutes of walking uphill, beside banana plantations, in a very simple hut called “restaurant”, we were greeted warmly. Flowers decorated tables already were served for lunch. The choice was a large number of domestic and freshly prepared dishes based on vegetables harvested from the garden. Everything was very tasty, and we went back several times to fill plates.  In the end, as children, we were melted in the divine taste of “banana dessert” cooked in orange juice.

Our tour ended with a visit to the lighthouse Melo near the village Janela, built in 1886, which offers a fascinating view of the Atlantic Ocean and the wild coast of the island of Santo Antao. It was late afternoon when we were back in Mindelo. With dinner in a very pleasant restaurant with live music, for a long time we talked about everything and were laughing to tears on Carlos’ story about only one horse that we saw during the entire trip. Namely, the residents of Capo Verde love to watch western movies, so they filmed several westerns on the island of Santo Antao as well as coloring that horse in the white and black, depending on the needs. Original, isnt’it!!

Before leaving the marina we decided to dedicate visiting and exploring the city of Mindelo, the more that I planned to buy some fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, which turned out to be pure utopia. Mindelo is a famous port city, whose marina hosts every year about 60 ships, the ARC regatta participants. When approaching the marina we immediately noticed that we have not sailed in Beverly Hills. The city does not characterized by high living standard and neatness street but is known for a very cozy restaurants and bars, delicious food and excellent wines. The offer on the market is rich but expensive and with very low quality. The fruits were mostly rotten and collapsed or dry and small. Fruits and vegetables are sold in many places in very dark, dirty, damp and musty rooms, better to say in the holes. Considering that we are in supermarkets encountered a similar situation, except the two packages of rolls, which we bought instead of the normal bread, because we were late, we gave up on any purchase. No matter what, Mindelo is a very interesting city. The streets are full of the local population and the music is at every step, which gives a relaxing atmosphere and comfort. People living in poverty, while some so poor that they are prone to begging, including the youngest. Mindelo is a city of barefoot diva Cesaria Evora, the queen of morna, celebrated around the world, even she had a few concerts in Novi Sad in Serbia. While Batuke, the oldest music brought by slaves from Africa, Morna is the most popular on the islands of Capo Verde and is characterized by a sad songs and a slow pace. One of the songs we sang in the van on the way back to Porto Novo on Santo Antao Island, along with Carlos. Walking through the wide streets we passed the University and came to the beautiful long sandy beach with turquoise blue sea. At that moment we forgot the market, rotten fruit and vegetables and indulge our self to the pleasures. Leaving Mindelo, we said goodbye to both our wonderful friends, Vanja and Bond. While the city disappeared on the horizon we felt happy that we, at least briefly, were a part of this environment, we had a chance to meet with a new world that we have only seen on television and in the end we get the original picture of the struggle for survival life of this friendly people. Turning toward the bow, Meermowe was carried us farther and farther in the direction of Saint Lucia, where we greeted a very dear beings Pedja and Marika.

Christmas wishes are the perfect way to share our happiness and feelings with all of you dear friends who follow us and sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

We hope that you enjoy traveling with us getting to know distant lands and unknown world, feeling also part of this adventure. Without you, our book pages would be empty therefore we once again warmly thank all of you on the wonderful support they so selflessly offer.

Although we are away from home on the sea but in the heart so close to you, we wish you a

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

with a lot of happiness and love both in private life and in the business plan.

Peter, Jasmine, Dino & Pipo