Our great journey continues where we left off in the last post. Behind us remained Susak bathed in sunshine. Meermowe was already gliding with the wind in the sails the high seas carrying us to the Long Island. Waiting for us a tour of the beautiful Bay Telascica and Salt Lake, which as part of the National Park Kornati, ignite the imagination.

During the trip we stopped at the Island of Molat. In Brgulj Bay we sailed with the intention to spend the night, buy the groceries and fill the tank with water to continue our journey. We could visit the days of this part of the Adriatic Sea but we had to think of the time, which is, in this time of year, very unstable and transient, than of complete calm to stormy winds which speed reaches up to 5o knots.

Leaving Brgulj next morning under the wind gusts could be seen that our day in many ways be different from the past period and it will be full of activities on board. Before Passages Maknare we’ve spread the sails and prepared for sailing.

Wind and sea were form increasing compared to the previous day. The waves breaking against the bow of the ship, whistling winds and strong strikes of the bow area has pointed to the reality that we thought from the very beginning of the trip.

Water lapped at us from all sides. Strength of the wind was 30 knots and the sea was 3-4. Under the pressure of the wind, Meermowe was lying completely on one side on the sea and under full sail strongly rode the waves. The right of enjoyment.

Happy and proud we sailed along these karst phenomena, high cliffs that fall vertically into the deep sea, these beautiful cliffs on the west coast of Long Island.

There are several legends about the origin of Long Island and the unique beauty of the islands, Kornati. One of them says that God wished to crown is work, out of tears, stars and breath created the Kornati, while the second wpeaks of God who threw a handful of white rocks which remained to him, and when he looked back, he decided that nothing should be repair.

In the Bay of Telascica we sailed between the two islands, Taljuric, which is actually a small stone tablet, diameter 60 m, height of only 3 m, whose upper layers blew waves where there is no vegetation, and Vela Sestrica, uninhabited island, which has the only lighthouse Tajer significant at 28 m high octagonal metal tower.

It’s an amazing and impressive sailing in the Bay of Telascica. Recessed is approximately 8 km into the mainland. The bay is very indented and contains a lot of bays, headlands and islands. Thanks to its position it is one of the largest and the best – protected natural harbor on the east coast.

It was five o’clock in the afternoon when we were tied to a buoy. We set about tidying up the boat, which is a priority for us at the entrance of each port, no matter how tired, hungry or wet we are. After a delicious dinner, we enjoyed a night swim and then, with a cup of hot tea, planned our activities for the next day.

Telascica lagoon is not populated, there is only a camp and a restaurant open until late at night.

Along the coast are decorated piers to dock tourist boats that come mainly from Zadar full of foreigners.

The first attraction in Telascica Bay which we visited, it was Salt Lake. Leaving our boat along the shore, we headed along a path that took us over the hill to the lake.

There can still see old stone houses and items that indicate the former farming community life of the island.

Around the lake, through the forest, stretches for walking trail 2 km long. This well known smell of a pine tree reminding of Dalmatia, spread all around us.

Sitting by the lake, about halfway, we enjoyed, in sandwiches, which I prepared for lunch, surrounded by the beautiful forest.

We continued led to a fascinating place were we experienced the beauty of bare karst. We could not believe my eyes at the sight of all the stone sculpture. One story says that the cluster of rocks, which is stacked on each other, was made by travellers in order to mark the way. Another story speaks of a mystical meaning of the cluster of rocks as being the “guardian of the souls” of dead people.

Not knowing their origin my husband and I have raised our sculpture on behalf of our happiness and love that will keep us on our journey. By the sea there is a stone slab in which there is a hole with warm water, to which tourists come to bathe.

On the way back we stopped at a restaurant and while we enjoyed the beer and ice cream, we observed a large number of tourist ships that sailed in and out of the Bay Telascica.

Safe haven of Dalmatian donkeys, strays, represents another interesting fact on Long Island. The donkey is known for his stubbornness and hard work but there is something not many known that the movements of the ears of donkey express its mood.

When its ears fall beside its head, it means it is relaxed, but when they are clinging to its head and thrown backwards, then it is most certainly unhappy and be careful how you approach it.

My husband has repeatedly stayed in the bay, and despite the fact that it was not unknown, he enjoyed the wonderful ambience, like the first time he was here. In the Bay we stayed three days.

Maximum we were dedicated to walking in the hills and survey the island, its tradition and modern life, and after returning to the boat,

swimming and fishing. From the knowledge of the people, the legend of strange inhabitants with five horns and mysterious tales of buried treasure hidden in cove also characterize the landscape.

When you live on a boat, all is in front of you, your happiness, just stop the time, the creation stops shift night and seems to be always comes the same day, you are able to pry into each hole, to touch every stone, rock and you’re closer every seagull that, in your immediate vicinity, so gently land on the surface of the sea.

Tireless dance giants raised a cloud of dust and sand from which formed the island, a flock of swallows on the island were brought wines – it is the foundation of “The Legend of the Island of Susak”, the new picture book of Elvis Vickic and Loreta Vickic Rusijan.

As you read this post, I will try to give you closer to the spirit of this mystical island. If you leave yourself to your imagination, you will feel the heat under the bare feet of soft sand of Susak and if you listen carefully you will hear the sound of the reed trembling in the wind and smell the sea the wind from the open sea.

Susak is a unique island in the Adriatic Sea to its origin and its appearance. The thick layers of fine yellowish sand onto the limestone plate inflicted ancient winds, and since time immemorial people around their farms planting reeds whose roots in search of water to penetrate deep into the soil and preserve it from erosion.

The island is also specific for its traditional folk costumes, which is dirrerent from the traditional costumes of other parts of the Croatia. Solemn variant women’s dress is bright colors whose skirt above the knee and is considered one of the first mini-skirt in the world. The daily variation is dark blue or black worn today.

I’ve never been on the Island of Susak, and because of its special features, I had a great desire to sail in the Bay of Susak. Peter stayed on the island forty years ago as a student and remembers the image of that time. Carried away with tis stories created my imaage and to me, unknown destinations.

From Island of Losinj to Island of Susak distance is 5.5 nautical miles. The night before leaving, we studied the nautical chart of the North Adriatic, complete forecasts and weather reports, make a plan of our activities and become familiar with the cultural traditions of the island. We sail in the morning at eight o’clock. The weather was still beautiful, peaceful and without major changes. Wind there was no cure. We were not in a hurry so we left Meermowe and his rival floating on the blue surface and the enjoyment that you extend the life. In addition to swimming and sunbathing on the deck, we enjoyed watermelon and cold drinks. I sent several messages and mails to the family and friends who are eagerly waiting for our answer.

Pipo and Dino also find themselves and their satisfaction. Dino with laughter rolled and sprawled on his back while Pipo was tickling his neck.

For lunch was served pizza that I have my husband promised to do. We roasted the first time on the frill, as we have no oven on board, giving it a special taste. After lunch and coffee once we got into a situation that we needed to keep the engine.

Under normal conditions from Losinj to Susak can be reached in an hour. We sailed into the Bay of Susak in the early evening. Because of the shallow water, we could not dock on the pier in the small port so Alen, harbourmaster, helped us to establish closer ties on the buoy.

More from the ship, during entering we noticed the small Church on the Hill Arat and Lighthouse Garba. It was three in the afternoon when we were transferred by boat to the nearby beach. Under artificial canopy erected, which relied on four branches, we met with a married couple from Austria, who own a house in the Upper Village.

Every year, for holidays, Klaus and Claudia come here spending all day on the beach, enjoying the sun and swimming.

We quickly became friends, leaving our boat with them, we started to explore the island, Cape Dart. At the top there is a chapel of Our Lady of the Annunciation by the inhabitants of the island built the thirties of the 20th century, because they could not often due to bad weather, to carry out their vows to the Virgin Mary.

Sandy road to the church is nice and light, and from the top of the hill is best seen Annunziata on Island of Losinj. We came back the same way that in the secong part leads to the Cemetery, Upper Village and the Lighthouse.

Cemetery chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, on the Merinama, was built in the early 20th century.

Given that there is no common trees and with a direct view of the newly renovated vineyards and the open sea, cementery act unusually bright and clear.

Vineyards largely cover Susak. Once there existed only one village called Sansego. Subsequent construction in the port creates another settlement called Lower Village.

In order to facilitate communication between the two villages were built stairs. In the center of the village is locataed building Immigrants’ Club as the main gathering place and social life of the villagers.

The streets of the Upper Village, in contrast to the Lower Village, are mostly paved or covered with concrete, very short and fast break to the left and right directions.

We were enchanted by the beauty and interestingness of the city.

We did not know where we’re going, we feel like we were in a maze with no exit. We left the river the streets and finally came out of the city and were on our way to the Lighthouse.

Garba was built on the highest point of the Island of Susak, the top Garba (98m), which is an important place of observation, and is one of the largest and most important Lighthouse in this area. For starters served as a lookout, for which tickets were bought in the harbormaster’s office in Mali Losinj.

Sometimes, for the lighthouse lived three families with children, husbands were lighthouse keepers and deposed in the job every eight hours. Today there lives in the house only Ante, the remaining lighthouse keeper and his wife. Eye of lights spreads a delightful flower garden. We spent about an hour in conversation with Ante, who has finally led us to the top of the Lighthouse with a beautiful view of the island.

Full of impressions, tired but happy and richer for the many insights, we left Garba and return to the short trail leading to the town. We stopped for a beer in a local restaurant in order to ease the soul and put an end to such a wonderful day we had.

We returned to the boat, dinner and went to bed.

My husband and I were pleasantly surprised by this destination, what we expected to see was far from what Susak really is, and we will certainly try to come back.

Unfortunately, Susak is, because of poor connection, far beyond radar range of travel agencies and many are not aware of its existence.

The next day we spent on the boat swimming and enjoying in planning our next destination.

Alen and his wonderful wife, Maja, came to greet us and tell us they wish luck on our onward journey.

At the dawn of the beautiful, sunny morning, 09 June 2015, we set off from the pier Marina Veruda in Pula and like Columbus, began the journey of our world. As the ropes, which were tied to the pier, dismissing the cleats, silence we watched. Our eyes were saying all the words were not necessary. We knew that the first time embarking on a journey into the unknown with no return.

At that moment, I quickly started to think if I bought everything we need, probably in order to find a good reason to go back, at least briefly. It seemed that one of us shout: “Stop, hold the rope and do not let the ship go”, but Meermowe would not stop. Cutting through the blue sea called us to duty and soon we returned the smile and happiness on our faces. We feel that we’re returning power, willingness and confidence. We threw another one, last look at the Pula, which is becoming further and further until it was lost on the horizon.

A special place on the board have our small and cute friends, Pipo and Dino, the mascots, which will sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure as well as representatives of the stunning New Zealand and sunny Dalmatia. With them will be all the more beautiful and happier.

Our first destination in which we sailed was Artatori Bay on the Island of Losinj. On the way we enjoyed a beautiful, sunny and warm weather with no wind, clear calm. The sea was peacefully and smoothly as oil. It was futile to hope for any sailing because the sail was hanging on the jib as a dishtowel.

Without wasting time, we decided to enjoy a swim. We were happy and very willing limitless playing in the water. After swimming we enjoyed our first lunch and coffee.

The journey we had continued with the help of the engine whose work has ripped our ears and the divine silence. In the bay we arrived in the early evening.

After dinner and very tasty pancakes with cheese and chocolate, we were fishing late into the night. The fish are biting on all sides in a very fast pace we managed to catch nine fish, which was enough for our meal. One of them, Peter is used as live bait on the hook and in the morning we had with great surprise out of eel 1.2 kg of which I cooked stew with polenta. This is what is called life.

MAGNETIC BEAUTY OF THE ISLAND OF LOSINJ

My husband and I first visited Mali Losinj two years ago, when we bought the ship and sailed from Split to Pula. Because of its beauty, we wanted to come back and sail into the Bay of Artaturi.

Mali Losinj is the largest island town. It is located on the south side of the island, in the Bay Augusta and is one of the main tourist centers on the Adriatic. Its history dates back to the 12^th century. Residents were living from agriculture and animal husbandry and later developed fishing, marine and tourism.

Discovering the health benefits of the climate is the golden age of the Island of Losinj, which it opened a new page of its history.

Artatori Bay is located in the eponymous town Artatore. It consists of a number of rocky, sandy beaches in the shade of pine trees and along the beach promenade-passing lane. Bay is five kilometers far from the center of the town.

If you sail these waters, Island of Losinj cannot be avoided. Like a magnet, its beauty and color of the sea called to the coast. The larger and smaller islands, as the bags spill, arouse curiosity. Union, Susak, Vele and Male Srakane, Ilovik, each of them has its own story. All those who come here find their peace, beauty and harmony.

There is a story on the ancient legend about the origins of the Cres-Losinj archipelago, which was called by the common name Apsyrtides, greek hero Apsyrt.

King Eeta from Kohilda, possessed the Golden Fleece. Brave guy Jason ruse, with the help of the king’s daughter Medea, who was in love with him, got hold of the Golden Fleece and the ship Argo with his friends the Argonauts went into hiding. Aspirit, the king’s son, went on his boat in pursuit of the kidnappers. After a long journey, posse caught up with the kidnappers. Medea lured brother Apsyrtus on the negotiations, and Jason him is secretly killed. Medea cut up his body and his limbs threw into the sea. From Apsyrt dismembered bodies were created Apsirt Islands – Apsyrtides.

Although this is just an amazing story, all the beauty of the Island of Losinj, on which letters might sound incredible, but it’s the reality.

In the Bay Artaturi we stayed two days related to the anchor. We enjoyed swimming and hiking and refreshment we asked for ice cream, since it was a hell of heat. Our sailing the Adriatic Sea is carried out on our own, freely chosen destinations what we want to visit and no time limit entering and leaving. Therefore, the next morning we were on the course to the Island of Susak.

Long awaited meeting with Meermowe was full of excitement. Indescribable joy and happiness that we have met in order to find as soon as possible on its deck.  When we saw our boat, it seemed, at first glance, the way we left it two years ago when we bought it. We entered the lower deck to remove the headsail, which, because of its size and weight, and it was no easy job. View I looked around for someone to help us but it was all in vain. An old proverb says, “the mind flourishes and power rolls the logs”. And so, while I strained my cerebellum in the solution of this problem, my husband had already pulled the sail on deck. With joint forces we put it in the forward shrouds and proudly watched rides up in the wind.

A systematic search of the ship, we have concluded that the problems jump out in front of us like rabbits out of a hat. The time was limited and the list of jobs was growing longer. As Peter and I love the efficiency and expediency, we immediately made a plan and wasted no time in busy at work. For starters we got working clothes, some basic materials and tools.

Windlass was the first work that we wanted to do. It is very important on board and without it is quite inconceivable conduct, pining and turning down the anchor chain and pull the anchor winch. I believe that each of you who follow us, at least once happened to you a little thing jade big headache. It just happened to us. The whole system inside was blocked and broken as unconditionally required exchange for a new one.

As my husband understands many jobs, he decided to take the matter into his own hands. It all seemed so simple and easy, unscrews several bolts, removes the winch from the tray and replaced by a new, just to fill time over coffee. It was really a pleasure to watch his enthusiasm that he approached the job. Time passed and the ideas and plans to remove the winch have replaced very quickly.

Obviously the machine was a tough nut until our aid did not come Igor and Velibor, specialists in repair and installation of anchor winches from Marina Veruda.

Installation of the radar and radar antenna is demanding and complex work on the ship.

Rare are those who do their job by looking at the world from above and landed on the cross mast like an albatross as the daily work of Toni and Zoran, Raymarine experts to set up and instalation of radar and radio systems on board.

It was impressive to watch the way in which it works, lifting the level up to the highest point of the mast when asked HF antenna.

Less impressive and painful was when Zoran at the end of the work, unfortunately, dropped the rope through the spinnaker pole and therefore had to climb back to the top. All that is, that moment passed through the wind and came to our ears was painful sigh, “Oh noooo…..”.

Jobs that took place on board sought patience and time. In the meantime, I was working on deck. For starters I got physically and very thankless job, “little of the deck”.

Only now I realized how hard it is to be a sailor on the big ships because every day they have to do the same job I was doing and who I’m going to do the whole journey, “scrubbing the deck”. At first it was difficult because I had to kneel down on my knees but I soon solved the problem, I turned on the radio and everything went to the music for the dance.

Bonding rubber on the wooden deck of teak oil lubrication and there was a lot more interesting and fun. The only problem was the heat at which I was working but it was better and happier with my sombrero. During this time Peter was hired about buying new parts and materials for service and had to frequently go to Pula. Frankly I did not envy him, I was aware that driving a car by oppressive heat and the crowds on the road still harder than working on deck.

The most important and most demanding job on the boat was making and setting up steel structure at the stern. It is a carrier, which in itself should carry a solar panel as the main installation of the power supply, windmill, boat horn, the antenna for radio communication, automating information system and television. It took three weeks to complete the job.

That’s what my husband most concerned about, whether we have enough time for the installation of such structures. To our great fortune we met Dalibor and his team, which has demonstrated a remarkable willingness and commitment to this business with high quality work.

After its completion joined us Doriano with his team as skilled professionals to install solar panels and a windmill with a very demanding job threading cables through the ship to the battery.

As time passed jobs were nearing the end and Meermowe every day was closer to immersion in the sea. Our actuating wheel is constantly turning and acceleration received as a windmill in the wind. It seemed that our desire for sailing should never extinguish. Machine slowly counted the hours and minutes. There was still a little time that we had booked for the vaccination, which we have received for areas with high levels found diseases of hepatitis A, yellow fever, typhoid and two doses of tetanus.

Beautiful medical staff of the Health Centre for Immunology in Pula, in front of which my husband showed weakness and resentment, it was really gentle, especially to Peter.

At the end of May we had the first visit. The sister of my husband, Danica came to spend week with us and see us off before boarding.

It was great to hang out with her on our board. It is very simple and very valuable person and quickly fit in the ship’s life.

Her dedication and hard work has helped to bring the end of the last jobs and their host experience gave me great practical tips and ideas.

Despite feeling that we have been given a short time we found the tour of the city, night stroll on the Sandy Beach, walking in the hills and enjoy the view of the beautiful bay of Marina Veruda. We have also allocated two days to test sail to the Lim Channel where we drop anchor and spend the night. For Danica, life on board and its upgrading and immersion in the sea a real impression and a new experience which she will remember for a lifetime.

After Danica’s departure we were at the gates to achieve the dream of twenty years. One more day, just one more night as we shared of departure. Our last review of the past, the life and the rationality of our decision to purchase the ship and life wish to circumnavigate the globe. Last walk on the Sandy Beach. With the sound of the sea changed the images and thoughts and streamed into one common flow driven compass love of the sea and no matter how justified we must recognize that the world is a scary place but we have our boat with two wheels.

SPECIAL THANKS

At the end of this post we would like to thank all participants of this project to the hard work and dedication and great work done in preparing our boat for Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

We also thank our children, Pedja and Igor and their partners, Marika and Melanie in Australia as well as the entire family, all friends and all of you who follow us, for the great and opening support.

Special thanks Dusanka Tomic Luk for extraordinary and selfless assistance that she provided during the entire stay in Pula.

Peter & Jasmine