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Meermowe's Great Adventure

Meermowe's Great Adventure

Category Archives: English

Blog entries in English

BETWEEN THE INQUISITION AND THE ROTTEN FRUIT

20 Wednesday Jan 2016

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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DSC06070Travelling to Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canary followed the strong wind and high waves. We lost Bitanga on the horizon and once again remained persistent on its course. Meermowe is almost ideally, broke through the waves reaching speeds of up to nine knots. If we continue like this, we thought, in Las Palmas will sail in less than twenty hours. Life is really nice but due to the DSC06251high stress sails under wind gusts we decided to shorten the sails in order to save the ship and ourselves from unwanted problems. In the capital of Gran Canaria, we sailed in the morning and tied for the pier where was already Bitanga. It was again one cordial meeting with Vanja, Mani and Bond.

DSC06378Muejo Deportivo is the busiest place in this time of year in Las Palmas. On the occasion of the largest ARC regatta across the Atlantic to the Caribbean island, here they come, every year, hundreds of sailboats from around the world as members of one of the two existing fleets, racers and cruisers. In contrast to the group of cruisers, whose participant was Meermowe, which was sailing on the route Las Palmas – Mindelo, Cape Verde – St Lucia, Caribbean, a group of racing boats was launched two weeks later sailed directly from Las Palmas to St Lucia. This is also the city where they gather and boats that sail independently discovering a new JIMMY CORNELLworld, as well as those who have repeatedly crossed over the Atlantic. For most of us amateur adventurers, who are obsessed with discovering distant lands on the other side of the pond, along a miserly sailing experience, made sure Jimmy Cornell, owner of the London-based magazine Cruising World, who in 1986 founded the first ARC transatlantic rally for cruisers. Since then, all participants, regardless of age, from start to finish accompanied by an organized control service. Since then, all participants, regardless of age, were monitored from start to finish by organized control service. To this end, I can not but mention a sailboat Corona AQ and skipper Peeke, DSC06791the participants of the first ARC rally, which are along with a new crew, wife Barbara and a friend Thomas, again crossed the Atlantic this year in class “C” with the same enthusiasm and won victorious plaque and thus marked the thirtieth anniversary of the ARC. Is there anything more to say other than “want to be, want to do.”

Sailing into the Las Palmas three weeks before the start, we had enough time for preparation and tour the city. ARC office opens at the beginning of November, so we used the first two weeks for installation of boom for a genoa, change the berings on both steering wheels DSC07768that are completely collapsed and check all the important points on the board. ARC office opens at the beginning of November, so we used the first two weeks for installation of tangun, boom for genoa sail, change the berings on both steering wheels that are completely collapsed and check all the important points on the board. Creating menus and preparing meals for a month of traveling seemed to me a great pleasure. I enjoyed watching how Peter immersed in the whole situation. Simply glowed with happiness and satisfaction. Vanja and Mani have also been tied up with work while the fish was attracted to Bond’s attention at which he DSC06293particularly licked. We helped each other, the more so as Vanja sailed for Mindelo one week before. Final World Cup in rugby, which took place in late October, brought a lot of excitement among us. They played New Zealand and Australia. At the door of each pier was a poster with the match details. It was definitely something that even in a dream not supposed to miss. That evening we went to the Irish Pub “Sheehan”. The huge screen on the wall provided a cheering ambience and the indescribable pleasure of watching the match. When we arrived the pub was full of people. We managed to get DSC06289hold of free space at one of the bar tables, where we had an unobstructed view of the screen. The atmosphere was apsolutely crazy. The New Zealand teams were played great and once again proved to be the best. We jumped, cheered, screamed and celebrated every “try” and me feel very proud of New Zealand and the flag that we sail under. DSC06303After the game we were guests on board of our dear friends from Switzerland, Kim and Claudia where we are, with their two beautiful daughters Lenja and Neele joined Hallowind game. Ponton “S” was located right next to ours. Teemed with children with strident DSC06296music, celebrating Halloween with creepy pumpkins, candles and scary costumes. While our friends have dresseds, I brought full bucket of candy and lollipops specially designed for the occasion. It was great even though the rain held off. You would found there Dracula who is under DSC06307the full moon, with a knife and a bottle of wine in his hands, sought his victim with which to quench the thirst. The inevitable was the encounter with the Indian chief, the Mexicans and sombrero and colorful spiders represented by our friends. It was an hour after midnight when we returned to the ship.

How are the jobs coming to an end, and the time until the official program of the rally shortened, we decided to devote ourselves DSC06270and curious wandering through the past of this city. The old center is located away from the marina so we drove by bus to the Plaza Mayor, where there is a large Gothic Cathedral of Santa Ana, built on the eve of Columbus’ big journey 1497 years. Opposite the Cathedral it was built the first town hall in whose vicinity there are historically significant monuments of wild dogs. My husband and I thought that the Canary Islands named after the canaries, as we DSC06268have imagined, green islands full of canaries. Looking at these beautiful dog sculptures, on whose place in another city, could stand statues of famous people, we realized that we were wrong. At that time it was not at all canaries. The most numerous inhabitants of among animals were wild dogs, in Spanish, “Canes” from where derives the name, whose busts are located around the city.

kolumbova kucaLas Palmas is known for the famous sailor of all time, Christopher Columbus called Colon who is in his travels, in the discovery of new world stopped by in this town. In the oldest part of the city Vegueta there is completely preserved Columbus’ house that was built in the Canary Statue_Columbus,_Las_Palmascolonial style in which he often stayed. There was also the seat of the first Spanish Governor of Happy islands. We were fascinated with the authentic look of the surrounding streets san-antonio-abadand buildings as well as the chapel of San Antonio itself where Columbus prayed for a good wind, and the success of his first race across the Atlantic.

The oldest harbor fortress Castillo de la Luz, light tower has built to defend against intrusion of Dutch and English pirates. It was set up on the foundations of wooden forts and was originally located on the ridge where he was influenced by natural tidal castillo-luzwaves of the Atlantic. With later development of the port, castle is far from the ocean and became a part of the oldest section of the city. Square in shape and is now used as an exhibition center. It was interestingly knowledge about the exibition of Inquisition and instruments of torture, from the time Columbos’ travel. To disobedience and mistakes sailors were hanging in a cage on the cross mast or were stretched with winch anchored chain. No one came to mind to think of rebellion or conspiracy to captain. Who knows it might be something of this fun, with more modern methods, which could be made today on modern boats.

P1140614aIn the end, we sat tired and cooked from the heat, in one of the restaurants and ordered Caldereta, one of the typical fish portions and cold white wine. Enjoying the food and the kindness of the local population, we went back further planning Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

DSC06329The official program started the next morning. Still we were only five days separated to departure. Meermowe was more than ready and thirty-cooked meals neatly arranged by plastic boxes and stacked in the freezer. Not lacking frozen berries, vegetables, cakes and ice cream. Delivery of large quantities of drink and drinking water we expected last spasavanje na moruday before departure. The days were filled with ARC program. There followed seminars, demonstrations rescue and evacuation, gathering sailors through joint dinners, lunches and other DSC06359activities. The inevitable was the traditional festive farewell designated by the city authorities with a beautiful show program. Truly memorable. Dawned that day, a day that usually is called the day “D” when something significant and important has to happen. Today we sail, the only thought which occupied all of our senses. Excitement and happiness we shared with Dino and Pipo. The weather was quite windy and pleasant for sailing. DSC06383Fifteen to one, Meermowe and his entire crew were ready in places. Releasing the ropes with cleats and waving crowd of people on the pier, we were among the many yachts, we spread the sails and on the sign of the salvo, successfully crossed the start line. We enjoyed the DSC06393whole atmosphere, which could only display the painting brush. As a flock of white albatross boats are spread in all directions. From the very start we decided to sail in mid-channel in order to come close to as many African coast and used the favorable winds and stern waves. As we sailed under full sail during the day spread in the butterfly, at night, we are shortening. Peter and I were taking turns in duties every 4-6 hours. Sailing down the coast of DSC06448Western Sahara wind brought us a large amount of desert sand from which all the ropes, sails and entire deck were yellowish brown. There was no time for boredom, we were always occupied with some activity that brings the fishing as number one. Waiting for something to bite, we sunbathed and showered with seawater, unusually warm for this time of year. The only shock that we experienced, but one of which we were jumping with joy, was when it fly in the cockpit large Dorado weighs 8 kg. I DSC06468have no idea how we were able to raise it the ship. We stared at him as a wolf in Little Red Riding Hood and we could not believe it’s happening to us. Peter had him barely kept raised while I was taking pictures. In the afternoon, sitting with coffee we had fun watching the dolphins and flying fish, which are like planes descended on our deck and to Peter, who got one hit in the chest. In the evening, before going to sleep, we have found peace in the romantic sunsets. All in all, until we reached the first island of the archipelago of Cape Verde passarosdid not believe that we have already arrived. Through objective we passed between Cape Joao Ribeiro and rocks Ilheu Dos Passaros located, near Marina Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente. Happiness knew no bounds when we heard over the DSC06496radio Vanja’s voice who was greeted us at the pier along with Bond and rest of team. Mani has traveled home for a month and we have invited Vanja that night on čevapi, baked potatoes and tomato salad.  Bond was looking at me cheerfully and pleadingly, as if to say: “Please do not ask me how I was, I’m still alive, and that’s enough”, enjoying your favorite and certainly a well-deserved meal.

capo verde mapaCapo Verde Archipelago, for us, were the islands of surprises. As scattered pearls are located in the endless blue of the Atlantic Ocean across from Senegal. They were named after the westernmost tip of Africa Cap Vert.

DSC06497In Mindelo we stayed four days and considering on the program did not have much time to waste. That same evening at the main pier at the entrance to the marina with a cocktail and music, we enjoyed a welcome party.  The next morning at seven o’clock we stood gathered in DSC06501groups around the tourist guides and with the boat headed to an all-day tour of the second largest island of the archipelago, Santo Antao, only an hour away from the island of Sao Vicente. Volcanic in origin and is characterized by mountains, wind and water, subtropical climate and lush vegetation. Carlos, guide of the first DSC06522group to which belonged to my husband and I, took us to the dock. The boat was crowded with people. We decided to look for a place on the outdoors deck in the lee, while some the wind protection were found out under the cap. We finally settled on a bench next to Susanne and Rita from Switzerland. In the visit to the island DSC06524them brought a love toward hiking and conquest of walking trails. Our time has simply flown in good company. The van which we started our very interesting trip, has already waited for us on the pier in Porto Nova. Driving along the old road through the resort, with the interest we watched the mountain inhabitants of the region and their residence. Despite all the DSC06533joys of life that provide these islands, on their faces was read the harsh and difficult past with no future. Namely, Capo Verde is one of the first centers where it was developed trade in black slaves from Africa called “Maafa” or “Great Desaster”, which means “Great calamity”. The slaves were transported to the colonies as free labor to work on plantations and in mines. DSC06531Their centuries-long history is still felt in the air and, like a spider, generational interwoven their strings through their lives. Everything was reminde me on the movie “Twelve Years of Slavery”. Passing through the small village Lombo de Figueira, we reached the edge of the volcano Cova. Standing on the steep cliff, we enjoyed the view of the fertile valley over which they DSC06563descended clouds in the form of mist and together with volcanic ridges they were reminded on a mystical age of the dinosaurs. One of the most beautiful places of the island of Santo Antao is located about Corda and Delgadingo mountains DSC06598where we merged with a fascinating view of the valley Ribiera Grande. The houses they seemed to grow out of the mountain. In one of the villages we were served with the local rum, which Peter especially enjoyed. This sweet little girl from the picture, which was trying to DSC06581protect herself from the cold by her scarf, on a cool and rainy day, was drew my attention. Leaving Corda to the capital of the island of Santo Antao, we drove almost vertically down the mountain range. The road was built of cobblestone, small granite cubes. Slaves built it in ancient times and DSC06554going through Delgadingo Mountain dividing it into two parts. Frankly, we admired the diversity of the landscape of cascade fields’ mango, papaya, citrus and other crops to dry barren land and pine forests that stretched along the road.

DSC06638City Ribiera Grande is located in the eponymous valley in a wonderful position overlooking the mountain range and the stunning scenery. In the city center there is a small square and the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosario. Embellishes it DSC06634picturesque streets with small shops and restaurants. Opposite the church is a school from which is, just that moment, going to the church, came out a group of children led by the teacher, whose faces are decorated with beautiful hairstyles full of different DSC06642hairpin. On the way out of town there is a playground for various sports activities. Driving along the coast, we arrived to the place Vila das Pombas, located in the bay, which is characterized by houses painted in pastel colors, while the north of town there is village of Synagogue, the former settlement of Jewish immigrants.

DSC06664On the way, we stopped at a private estate along the road, where we were served a traditional meal of fish and candied mango, which is the hostess of the house prepared for us and with the local drink grogue, local rum, which has still been produced on the old way, DSC06660destillation in the old furnace. Before leaving, my husband did not miss the chance to, like an old sailor Popeye, instead of the spinach buy a few bottles of the original rum. At ten DSC06672minutes away and fifteen minutes of walking uphill, beside banana plantations, in a very simple hut called “restaurant”, we were greeted warmly. Flowers decorated tables already were served for lunch. The choice was a large number of domestic and freshly prepared dishes based on DSC06694vegetables harvested from the garden. Everything was very tasty, and we went back several times to fill plates.  In the end, as children, we were melted in the divine taste of “banana dessert” cooked in orange juice.

DSC06711Our tour ended with a visit to the lighthouse Melo near the village Janela, built in 1886, which offers a fascinating view of the Atlantic Ocean and the wild coast of the island of Santo Antao. It was late afternoon when we were back in Mindelo. With dinner in a very pleasant restaurant with live music, for a long time we talked about everything and DSC06724were laughing to tears on Carlos’ story about only one horse that we saw during the entire trip. Namely, the residents of Capo Verde love to watch western movies, so they filmed several westerns on the island of Santo Antao as well as coloring that horse in the white and black, depending on the needs. Original, isnt’it!!

DSC06809Before leaving the marina we decided to dedicate visiting and exploring the city of Mindelo, the more that I planned to buy some fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, which turned out to be pure utopia. Mindelo is a famous port city, whose marina hosts every year about 60 ships, the ARC regatta participants. When approaching the marina we immediately noticed that we have not sailed in Beverly Hills. The city does not characterized by high living DSC06827standard and neatness street but is known for a very cozy restaurants and bars, delicious food and excellent wines. The offer on the market is rich but expensive and with very low quality. The fruits were mostly rotten and collapsed or dry and small. Fruits and DSC06817vegetables are sold in many places in very dark, dirty, damp and musty rooms, better to say in the holes. Considering that we are in supermarkets encountered a similar situation, except the two packages of rolls, which we bought instead of the normal bread, because we were late, we gave up on any purchase. No matter what, Mindelo is a very interesting city. The streets are full of the local population and the music is at every step, which gives a relaxing atmosphere and comfort. People living in poverty, while some so poor that they are prone to begging, including the youngest. Mindelo is a city of barefoot diva Cesaria Evora, the queen of morna, celebrated around the world, even she had a few concerts in Novi Sad in Serbia. While Batuke, the oldest music brought by slaves from Africa, Morna is the most popular on the islands of Capo Verde and is characterized by a sad songs and a slow pace. CESARIA EVORA - SAO VINCENTEOne of the songs we sang in the van on the way back to Porto Novo on Santo Antao Island, along with Carlos. Walking through the wide streets we passed the University and came to the beautiful long sandy beach with turquoise blue sea. At that moment we forgot the market, rotten fruit and vegetables and indulge our self to the pleasures. Leaving Mindelo, we said goodbye to both our wonderful friends, Vanja DSC06854and Bond. While the city disappeared on the horizon we felt happy that we, at least briefly, were a part of this environment, we had a chance to meet with a new world that we have only seen on television and in the end we get the original picture of the struggle for survival life of this friendly people. Turning toward the bow, Meermowe was carried us farther and farther in the direction of Saint Lucia, where we greeted a very dear beings Pedja and Marika.

 

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MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR

21 Monday Dec 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

≈ 1 Comment

 

Christmas wishes are the perfect way to share our happiness and feelings with all of you dear friends who follow us and sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

We hope that you enjoy traveling with us getting to know distant lands and unknown world, feeling also part of this adventure. Without you, our book pages would be empty therefore we once again warmly thank all of you on the wonderful support they so selflessly offer.

Although we are away from home on the sea but in the heart so close to you, we wish you a

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

with a lot of happiness and love both in private life and in the business plan.

 

DSC02501Peter, Jasmine, Dino & Pipo

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GIBRALTAR IS A MIRACLE AND WE LIKE IT THAT WAY

12 Saturday Dec 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

≈ 11 Comments

alcaidesa+marina20120802104518_1La Linea is a town in Spain, in the province of Cadiz. Located on the eastern side of the Bay of Gibraltar and borders the British Maritime Territory of Gibraltar. Entering into marina Alcadeisa for us is represented not just another successfully completed section of the our adventure but is already one step closer to Gran Canar, where we join the ARC Rally and embarking on a journey around the world in a group with other ships. DSC05743That afternoon we walked the marina and met with some of the rally participants from different parts of the world. Returning to the ship we stopped next to the boat on which was bearing the flag of Malta. In La Linea has arrived shortly after us and tied the other side of the marina pier near the Meermowea. Golden retriever, running around in the front of the sailing boat, with his behavior has showed belonging to the ship. “Bitanga”, the name that we were amazed by the attention and awaken curiosity to approach people on the board and ask where they come from. Vanja and his dog Bond are longtime sailors from Slovenia. With short interruptions they travel the world and above all are very well coordinated team. On this occasion, in the company of friend Marjus called Mani, also Slovenian, traveling to Brazil with the intention to sail into the Amazon. Mani enjoys sailing DSC05875and discovering new spaces therefore it is very difficult to resist the magical appeal of the marine space. How way led the same course to Gran Canaria, we have decided that part of the sail together. We quickly became friends and enjoyed a very pleasant moments of our association. That evening we invited Vanja and Mani for dinner. We enjoyed the grilled fish that my husband caught and thus celebrate our first catch. The fish was really finger licking.

Traveling more than 600 miles, which stood in front of us, is a more complex preparation required to ship and ourselves, therefore we were the first three days maximum dedicated to that. While Peter purchased the equipment from Chandlery shop in Gibraltar, which we missed for the rally and took care of the technical condition of the ship, I was a “small” of kitchen and deck. The days were beautiful, perfect for work on board. We enjoyed the liveliness that ruled not DSC05995only on our boat but also around us.  All were hurrying to reach the time and were in their own film. Everything had been in place, ropes sorted, fences and handrails shiny, suits washed and ready for use. Each of us, participants in the Atlantic rally, wanted to sail in Las Palmas in all its glory. We worked that all smoked and we did not think that we will again set sail, and not to fly to Las Palmas, that we’ll get many times again the waves splash and ropes that will create a mess in the cockpit and hang around legs as we wind-filled sails. “It does not matter”, we’ve thought of that moment and the only thing we were feeling were happiness and pride to our beautiful ship and to ourselves.

DSC05798The last two days prior to departure, we took the tour of Gibraltar. Located in the Mediterranean on the southernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula and overlooking the passage of Gibraltar. He is known by mass of stone that rises impressively from the sea, which makes it, also known as “The Rock.” A ten minute walk is shared by the marina from the border aerodrom gibraltar 1crossing. It will sound unbelievable but in Gibraltar, Avenue Winston Churchill and runway share one section of the road. Actually, the Airport North Fort is the strangest we’ve seen so far. Length is just three miles and wide less than one kilometer, and the lack of flat space caused the intersection with the busiest street leading to the city center. Over the airstrip exceeds as over the railway line with the use of ramps. When the plane lands or takes off, traffic stops for ten minutes, and the busy street becomes part of the runway, and then everything goes back to normal. It looked like fun. Happiness is that the flights, mainly from or to the UK, they are not common, only about 30 per week.

DSC05786Gibraltar is a small city with a large number of attractions and it is obvious that every inch of space well used. While we sailed in La Linea we observed it from the boat, but even in our dreams we did not assumed what we will see and experience in it. It is a known tourist destination with a very busy streets flooded people. The city is full of hotels, shops with beautiful shop windows, restaurants and cafes. In the pedestrian zone of the old town, we enjoyed watching the buildings with a mix of Regency styles, most of which have shops on the ground floor while the DSC05843upper floors provide housing or office. On such a small area next to the airport, there is also a big football stadium.

The aim of our visit to Gibraltar was the Rock of Gibraltar, which we were looking at it daily from the marina, increasingly attracted. In a nearby agency, we decided to include in the “Rock Tour”, which offered a rich program of visits to all attractive places of the Park. We got a van and a super driver who, despite waiting and insufficient DSC05871numbers of people finally decided to go with the four of us up the hill. Standing on top of the Rock of Gibraltar we felt as if we’re standing on top of the world. While we took a deep breath of Europe, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic are spread on both sides of Strait of Gibraltar. The winding road that we drove it offered a breathtaking view of the African coast, the Spanish Costa del Sol and the city itself.

DSC05802The Rock of Gibraltar, it is also home to the famous barbaric monkeys, who throughout Europe only here live freely in the wild and are living symbol of Gibraltar. The monkeys were divided into six families and each of them, like the mafia, the masters of their territory. They identify each other and know exactly what is their affiliation. Apparently love to take pictures, moreover, seems to pose. We should not approach them too DSC05841close because they can be quite mischievous and can bite. Near the place where they feed, much to my surprise, one of them jumped on my head. From the driver we also found out that all of Gibraltar’s Barbary apes date from North Africa, and no doubt they are Algerian and Moroccan origin. Nature Park is also an ideal place to observe migratory birds between Africa and Europe.

While descending from the Rock of Gibraltar road brought us to St Michael’s Cave, with stalactites and stalagmites, the biggest caves in the area. It’s illuminated by a special lights color that gives it a special look. In the cave was long thought to be bottomless why there was a story that Gibraltar rock DSC05807underground passage linked with Africa and that Barbaric monkeys came to Gibraltar through the underwater passage. Centuries-old stalactites and stalagmites are the unique beauty of crystalline nature. In the summer months the cave is used as a concert hall.

DSC05858Labyrinth of the Tunnel Great Siege, in which Peter particular delight, probably is the most impressive defensive system that man could devise. It dates from the 18th century and did it in defense of British Gibraltar in English-Spanish war. Mine is a few kilometers long and very well preserved. Numerous exhibits give a clear image DSC05860of the time. The interesting of the tunnel are graffiti on the walls drawn by soldiers on guard in order not to fall asleep during long hours at duty, which was punishable by death at the time.

Before returning to the center, where we started our tour, we stopped next to the Moorish castle. It was built in the eighth century and stretched all DSC05866the way to Casemates Square at the end of Main Street. It consists of various buildings, doors and walls. It impresses with its appearance, dominance and strategic position.

Walk Mediterranean stairs, the next day was a big hit before our long journey. The path leads mostly along the eastern side of 250px-Gibraltar_nature_trailthe Nature Park and consists of rocks and low Mediterranean plants. It is quite steep that made my husband very “pleased”, interesting and rich with various flowers. The day was sunny and we enjoyed in the shade of which it provided to us walking trail. The time we have left to return to the ship, we used for quick visit the Lighthouse of Europe, which is the southernmost point of Gibraltar, between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. It was first lit in 1841 and worked on the basis of fixed lights and at the end of the 20th century is automated.  Gibraltar boasts another interesting point that we were delighted. We learned that registrars have their hands full of job and are working day and night, twenty-four hours. There were married Sean Connery, DSC_0407twice, and John Lennon and Yoko Ono. Happy and satisfied with all we have seen we returned to the marina Alcadeisa then took taxi and drove to the supermarket.  It was evening when we got an arm full of bags returned to the ship. Gibraltar is really interesting and wonderful cablecar1city, which is why we have just such and loving. That evening, over coffee, we talked with Vanja and Mani on the details of our journey. Standing in the cockpit at the top of the stairs Bond was carefully watching us. It is very intelligent and smart dog and its view doubtful he watched us, “but we’re going right.” He was feeling and knew that we prepare to sail because the already began to show signs of anxiety.

DSC05910At seven thirty in the morning, we threw a last look at the weather forecast for the coming week and at eight, five hours before peak tide, spreading the sails Bitanga and Meermowe left the marina. Catching crosswind both ships sailed toward the door of the Mediterranean. Sailing along the Spanish coast, we have tried to DSC05911avoid huge currents, which the   influence  of  the  tides  rule   the  channel.  Using motor and sail we were moving speed of all three knots. It seemed that we do not move from the place. Over six hours we needed to be got hold of the lighthouse at the exit of the Strait of Gibraltar. Extremely strong current did not allow us to sail a course towards Africa, but we were returning to the Mediterranean. Communicating by radio with Vanja, we decided to continue on with Spain toward Portugal and get away with it 35 miles out to get away from the existing current. Only in the evening we got hold of the African DSC06048coast. On the way dolphins were following us. We were very excited watching them how they jumped in and out of the sea as soon as possible in order to reach us. We did not know which way to turn, a whole flock had surrounded us by playing with Meermowe and cheerfully greeting us. We were amazed by the speed with which they moved through the water emerging with a bow, as to compete with the ship, who will be sooner. They are so unpredictable that it was very difficult to capture them with camera. DSC06244Driving down the coast of Morocco, we changed course towards the open sea, in order to overcome the adverse weather conditions. Around us there was full night. The weather was increasingly deteriorating. The waves were hitting us from all sides and spilled ship up to the mast. We had to separate ourselves from Bitanga, sailing each of us in favorable course. During the morning, the wind and the sea had calmed down considerably. Due to the lack of fuel supplies, we were forced to sail into the first available port in Morocco. It was Mohammedia, about 25 miles north of Casablanca. Mohammedia is a small and very interesting port where life starts early in the morning. It was DSC05956six o’clock in the morning when we passed the breakwater. On the left side there is a high dark pier that flooded many people who were holding a large black buckets tied with a rope, waiting for small fishing boats to return from fishing. While are one by one arrived in the port agreeing foot pier, people are, pushing each other, DSC05968lowered the bucket with money and raise them full of fish. While some of them are resold fish, others wore fish home. Pump the fuel was located high up in the mountain and we did not have a theoretical chance to pour fuel into the tank, so we had to sail out of the port, drop anchor and by dinghy ride buckets to the pier, and then on foot to go to the petrol station and with full buckets return back to dinghy. Our reserve fuel cans are 80 liters and Peter went to refuel twice to fill the tank, and then the reserves. Half of day we lost waiting for the resolution of paperwork at customs and the police. It was four o’clock in the afternoon when we get authorization to get underway. Meanwhile over Muhammadia were pretty heavy, dark clouds bringing with it strong wind and rain. Regardless of the weather conditions decisively we set sail in the hope that it will take time to change soon. The storm followed us during the night and DSC04986the whole next day. Dino and Pipo are in fear disappeared without a trace. “Here is another madness,” commented Dino. “Another horror, it’s better to spend the night in the bed,” exclaimed Pipo, by pushing a wool cap on his head. For Dino and Pipo it was scary, and for us one unforgettable moment that make us even more persistent. Time finally DSC05936started to calm down. Next night we enjoyed calm sea and beautiful picture of sunset.  The joy and happiness knew no bounds when we saw the first outlines of the Canary archipelago.  Canary Islands consist of seven major and several smaller islands. It is interesting that each island is different from the other and a story in itself. Volcanic origin and DSC06074the Greeks and Romans called them Fortunate Islands, Garden of Hesperides, or Atlantis.

In Caleta del Sabo, on the island Gracioza, we sailed in the morning. Marina was full and busy so we drop anchor in the neighboring bay. Vanja, Mani and Bond had arrived shortly before us and were expected our DSC06108arrival. Weather Forecast prefigured of the new wave of bad weather so we decided to sail the next day afternoon at the Marina Rubicon on the island of Lanzarote. Time to departure, we took a tour of the place. Caleta del Sabo is a small coastal town. Low white houses DSC06140with no roofs characterize it. Its shape and color of window blinds and doors are reminiscent of a mix of Mexican and Greek style. It is surrounded by dark volcanic hills, while the streets are made of sand. On entering the city there is a beautiful cactus developed in bushy tree, some small palm trees DSC06121adorning the sandy beach while a large palm tree rises in front of cafes, where we sat down to refresh cold drinks, and send some e-mails. Looking around, we felt that we lost in a western movie “A Fistful DSC06139of Dollars”. It is well known that America is the cradle of Cowboys, that many spaghetti westerns filmed in Italy, but for this movie I would guarantee that it was filmed right here in Caletta del Sabo. We missed only Clint Eastwood. This small town has left a deep impression on us just because we’ve never encountered something DSC06144similar. Exuded once relaxing atmosphere and very pleasant and friendly locals. Caleta del Sabo is very difficult to describe, need to experience it and be a participant in this fantastic atmosphere.

DSC06205The journey to Marina Rubicon on the island of Lanzarote lasted five hours. It is the largest island of the archipelago and already from the boat we noticed that differs greatly from the island Gracioza. The city is quite large and extends along the bay. Along the coast rise magnificent hotels dominated Arab style. Marina in which we sailed impressed us with its look presenting a small town full of beautiful shops. DSC06242Saturday morning is held large market whose stands are full of garments, souvenirs, household and decorative items. We enjoyed not only in this scene, moving together with the river people down the street, but also in a wide range of content that marina provided to us. We enjoyed not only in this scene, moving together with the river people down the street, but also in DSC06222a wide range of content that marina provided to us. In many restaurants we enjoyed the taste of very simple meals. Papas arrugadas, consists of unpeeled potatoes boiled in salted kumpirigofiawater and served with Mojo Picon sauce of oil, onion, chili and pepper.  It was interesting to know that the traditional and oldest recipes are prepared on the basis of gofio flour.  Invented by the Guncia, the original inhabitants of the island and is a standard part of the diet. Gofio flour is made from roasted grains and is used as DSC06225an addition to soups, sauces and even ice cream.

The Canary Islands are the exact opposite of what we imagined and regardless of their unusual appearance, as in the story of a thousand and one nights, gave us one calm and relaxation that we are not at all surprised as it’s a popular tourist destination.

The night before leaving we had prepared for the journey and early in the morning together with Bitanga spread sails and we sailed course the DSC05943eagerly awaited Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canaria.

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SPAIN, TREASURE CHEST OF UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES AND SCENES

02 Monday Nov 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

≈ 4 Comments

DSC05314Mallorca, whose development began in the early 20th century, is the largest island in Spain. Situated in the heart of the Mediterranean as one of the oldest European destinations, often called “Old lady”. In the capital town, Palma de Mallorca, we sailed at two o’clock after midnight. We cleaned up the boat speed and jumped under the quilt mountain. A few hours later we solved papers to stay and sail the Spanish waters.

Palma de Mallorca blinded us in the morning walk to the Harbor Master with its beauty and aroused in us a tremendous curiosity to look into her DSC05373soul. The city is fully committed to the people for walking, sightseeing and fun and the cathedral surrounded by medieval walls dominated by them. It is characterized by narrow city streets, squares with numerous century old palaces with rich architecture as well as buildings and churches DSC05443from the renaissance to the baroque. Despite many decades, Palma has managed to retain a youthful exuberance. With great pleasure and mood, we sat in a restaurant to have lunch. While Peter enjoyed a cold beer I ordered Spanish sangria, which was perfectly done good with pizza and heat. Sangria is a mixture of cold wine and various fruits, intended DSC06284mainly fairer sex. It got its name from the Spanish word sangre, which means blood. Type of fruit depends on the area in which the real sangria. In coastal towns used bananas, kiwis and mangoes while the wine is usually black. The early afternoon we had to come back on board as we waited for the service to repair the bow propeller, and we left the tour of the city for another day. We were convinced that it was a failure on the engine, which can be removed from the front cabin but we had no such luck. “Why just when can a complicated”, has become our motto and the DSC05457problem proved to be far more complex. In fact, it was about the bow thruster, which is during the docking on the pier, sucked a piece of floating wood and broke him. The only way to fix it was to draw Meermowe from the sea to dry dock, which we did. We felt like we got a winning combination lottery. Three days it took to set up a new DSC05409unit and the installation of protective bars, so this does not happen again. While the masters do their part of the job, my husband and I have used the situation to raise the level of water line anti-vegetative paint and replace zinc protectors. Carried away with job we did not feel as quick a day goes. For dinner I decided to prepare a steak of tuna with spinach and avocado then we walked along the waterfront enjoying a good mood and unusually warm night.

DSC05372The next day we are dedicated to Palma de Mallorca. Real Club Nautico Marina is located close to the center. It is very well organized and offers a wide range of facilities for enjoyment and recreation. With its location is suitable for sightseeing and enjoying all that he offers.

Cathedral of Santa Maria de Palma, popularly known as La Seu, the vast edifice of DSC05378Gothic Roman Catholic cathedral, which we noticed in the night from the boat as we sailed into the marina. Special lighting gave her a special charm. Its appearance reminded me of the Gothic cathedral in Milan. It was built on the spot where it uses to be the seat of the Arab Mosque and its construction lasted for three centuries. It is located in the old town of DSC05415Palma, between the Royal Palace Almudaina and episcopal palace. When we arrived in front of the Cathedral we felt so small, in view of its size, while providing us look to the Park de la Mar and the Mediterranean Sea. Pictures with religious themes are stored in her museum. Picturesque streets that DSC05426surrounding it are full of passers-by and carriages with horse-drawn. The pedestrian zone in the old town offers a lot of interesting and picturesque shops full of things. My husband did not remain indifferent to store with dried meat and hot peppers, which are as clusters, hung on the ropes. Life in the old city takes a DSC05449place as on the stage. Fifteen minutes we stood in a crowd in the front of the most popular ice cream shop. These lovely, young and playful girl thrilled us with his approach, speed and quality of service. Everything was done as per tray. With a big smile and happiness, with ice cream filled cones, people are slowly parted, each to his DSC05445own.

Each destination, in which we have sailed, has its charms. In some, we enjoyed fantastic food and excellent wines; many of them gave us valuable historical knowledge while we are in front of someone with a impressive architecture, lost our breath. Just in front of such one edifice we stood, my husband and me. Castel Bellver, seven hundred years old, located on a hill three kilometers outside the city of Palma, offering a spectacular view of the city that gave it its name Bellver, meaning “bella vista”, a “nice view”. This Gothic building was once the summer zamak bellvere nocuresidence of the Mallorcan monarchy and later was converted into a prison. The castle is of a round shape and its appearance back to the time of the Dark Ages, kings, nobles and knights who fought for the favor of the princess. Wanting to do something different, Castell, we decided to visit at night because in combination with the full moon truly looks like a place from a fairy tale.

PALACIO-REAL-ALMUDAINA-MALLORCA-LENGUA-DE-SIGNOS-HOTELES-MALLORCAWorks on Meermowe were slowly coming to an end so we had a little more time to visit the Palace of Almudaina. Muslim royal castle in the Gothic style, was built in 903, when the Arabs occupied the island. Was the center of the Kingdom of Mallorca. Because of its centuries-reconstruction, it presents the architecture of different periods. It is surrounded by high, walls and towers of which the most striking is tower Angel, known by the angel Gabriel, and it served as a watchtower.

DSC05433Palma de Mallorca is certainly more than wine sangria, fiestas, bullfights and “ole” exclamation. This is a city rich in history and flavors, a city that once experienced and remembered forever.

DSC05468Dawned a beautiful day. Weather forecast promised good winds and calm seas. Our final destination was Cartagena. Sailing the coast of Ibiza, one of the islands of the archipelago “islands of pine trees”, we enjoyed the view of the green steep hills and scattered square houses along its coast. During the night we got the wind, spread the sails and continued heading towards the Costa Blanca, or White Coast. Early evening we DSC05521sailed in Alicante, one of its destinations. Marina Club Nautico is located in the city center. We tied to the pier near the old majestic pirate sailing ship converted into a tourist attraction. That same evening we walked along the promenade lined with palm trees in search of a supermarket, when we next DSC05550morning, over coffee, enjoy watching the wedding ceremony of two young people. At that moment we started to unravel film of our wedding and take out of mothballs all those funny mishaps that we’ve been through from the preparation to the victorious “YES”. The story is long and funny, a real delicious and I’ll be happy DSC05532to tell you some other time.  Alicante is a beautiful and very clean coastal city. The people are very friendly, polite and hospitable. The city is rich in historical attractions, sandy beaches and numerous parks. Short time of our stay in this beautiful city we used to rest and relax after DSC05549which we continued our trip to Cartagena.

The interest of this part of the Spanish coast arouses the diversity and size of the cities. The long chain of beaches and densely developed and grouped cities located at the foot of high mountains, they stretch along the entire coastline.  Skyscrapers and houses are mostly white.DSC05731 Night had already descended as we sailed between the coastal resort of Santa Pola, famous for its Natural Park of Salt and the Island of Tabarca, which is the smallest inhabited island of the Spanish. With favorable wind we sailed down the coast going down to the Cape of Cabo de Palosa. Slowly we were approaching to Cartagena. DSC05631In Yacht Port We sailed around eleven in the morning. After routine cleaning and washing the boat we decided to spend the day on board.

Cartagena is located in a bay Costa Calida which means’ warm coast “and represents one of the largest commercial Port of Spain. The old town lies on five hills, which is why in ancient times it was considered as “Little Rome”. The city is interesting in their own way and full of museums, churches and archaeological monuments of which DSC05725we are, the next morning visited the Roman Theater, built in the 1st century BC, which is located in the pedestrian zone of Calle Mayor and which is second largest on the Iberian Peninsula. The first tower, built to defend the city and the port, the remains of the Punic Wall they can be seen in the museum a few steps from the main bus station. art_deco cartagenaAlong Calle Mayor we admired the beauty of Art Deco buildings and facades, which date from the 19th and 20th centuries, when in Cartagena started first development of trade and mining. Cartagena is proud of its ancient past. Teatro Romano today is used to maintain a single annual festival “The Romans and rimljani i kartazani u predstaviCarthaginians.” The show includes more than four thousand inhabitants of this city. The games revive the heroic events of the Second Punic War, which creates a magical atmosphere in the cozy place of Cartagena.

Los Nietos, once a small fishing village with its own DSC05705marina on Mar Menor has developed into a tourist resort chain holiday home, at the same time used for business, especially in the summer period. Los Nietos is located about 35 km away from Cartagena. We got there by train with two small coupes. Never in our life have not rode the train less than this. Departures on the line Cartagena – DSC05702Nietos and vice versa are every 30 and in the afternoon 45 minutes. Our visit to this beautiful and very interesting place was out of season so everything was deserted and quiet. Houses closed, streets without life. During the walk along the beach and later a central street of the village, we met almost two persons. From animals we DSC05704saw only one cockroach in a small cafe, which Peter wanted to take picture but he escaped under the bar.  The day was windy which caused muddy sea of the coastal belt. No matter what, we enjoyed this unusual silence in sun bathed Los Nietos. During the summer months the place is flooded with tourists, which it certainly gives him a special sparkle and glamor. On the boat we came back late in the afternoon. With dinner we studied the map and planned our journey for next day to Gibraltar.

Set off from the marina we’ve spread the sails as the albatross wings. The satisfaction that provided us crosswind, it was irreplaceable. Just take some time, was the only thought that we hang out at the head. Wind, who that afternoon turned direction and blew right in the bow, raising waves, took us back activities because, as people say “everything that is nice is short duration”. DSC05284Resisted their choppy and gusts, shortness we moved and progressed slowly, although we drove sail and motor. Sailing toward the lighthouse De Gata, we were entering all over, in the area of highly variable weather conditions, so we changed course and underline under shore to protect ourselves from the wind and strong waves coming from the southwest. We passed the Cape during the night. Shortly afterwards the wind and the sea began to settle down until complete calm. An ideal opportunity for fishing, isn’t it, we agreed. In the morning I was awoke by Peter’s cry and fuss. I knew immediately that something was hooked on his “ideal DSC05982bait” to which he is especially proud. I immediately joined him and excitedly watched draws fish with effort. Wide open eyes I stared at the sea, waiting to see snapper, tuna or even shark. When nylon came near the end, we noticed two large golden fish with black dots. I tried to catch them in the fishing net, but they were too big. When we raised them on the first stair in the stern, one of them was unhooked and went into the sea while we managed to keep the second. It was a golden mackerel weighing about 4.5 kg. Happiness and joy knew no bounds. That enjoyment, we cannot describe. Our beautiful guest, back-flipping and thrashing, bloodied our entire cockpit, as that was the pig slaughtering. The fish was immediately cleaned, cut into fillets, put in the freezer and all the way to the next marina we have not stopped talking about it. DSC05715In the Bay of Gibraltar, stayed on Spanish territory, into the city of Alcadeisa (La Linea) we sailed about one o’clock in the afternoon.

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SICILY, ISLAND WITH TWO FACES FILLED ALL SENSES

23 Friday Oct 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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sicilija mapaPizza, pasta and Don Corleone in “The Godfather” movie, is the first thing that comes to mind when I think of Sicily and Calabria. Trieste, Venice, Padua, Milan via Genoa to Rome, but never touched her south, so a visit to this beautiful island awakens in us the desire for new discoveries unknown. In Porto di Syracuse we sailed late in the evening. At the sirakuza vatrometentrance to the port we were met by a spectacular fireworks display that is in our hearts celebrated the successful completion of another section of our journey. The night we spent at anchor and overwhelmed with fatigue soon asleep.

DSC04741The next morning we were tied to the pier of the marina in the center of the city and fix the customs paperwork. Sicily is an island with two faces, one by the sea where modern life is taking place in towns and cities formed by the same principle and secondly its interior surrounded not just by DSC04742gentle hills. Greek colonists built Syracuse and its name comes from the Greek word Sirako that means wetlands.

Our first day took place in a relaxing atmosphere. With a short walk near the marina, we were devoted to our DSC04816personal pleasures. It seemed that nothing can disturb us while into marina, under the Swiss flag, has not sailed Jaganda. Maneuver that the skipper sailed alongside our boat provoked in me anxiety and distrust. With his stern it quickly approached our port side. I ran up on deck like I pushed him away and prevent a shot. When Jaganda came quite close to Meermowe with all my strength I held her in place. At that moment a wave lifted the ship’s stern whose handrail reached our fence and tore the cable tensioner. When Peter saw what was happening, he came to help. When he grabbed for the fence she relented what caused the loss of balance and fall into the sea. I watched in shock at the sight that lifted my adrenaline. In that anger, I was wishing to strangle them. Finally, Jaganda was moved away from us and with re-maneuver successfully tied to the pier. During that time I helped his husband to come out of the sea. Except he hit with his knee to the fence, everything else was fine. Aware of his mistake, Bruno was immediately approached to us with a friendly expression of regret for everything that happened. True, I was not ready that moment to express his hospitality so Peter was showing understanding and found a common language with him and everything was resolved friendly to the mutual satisfaction. Bruno immediately brought spare cable tensioner and back fence to its original state, and even I can say that it has become stronger and DSC04831safer than before. Thinking some time about that incident, I realized that things, as much as we like it or not, happening all around us and that the same thing or something more worse could happen to our self. “Mistakes exist,” says Bruno, “to learn how not to repeat them”. I rated that this is a very honest person worthy of attention therefore my attitude towards him and Sylvia fundamentally changed, showing them friendship and hospitality. The rest of the days we spent in the planning of our commitments and activities.

Vicenco and Andrea, cheerful and good guys, are arrived in the morning on the boat bringing with them a full basket of Sicilian’s spirit. Check the cleanliness of DSC04754diesel and fuel tank, in which the purity we suspected was their primary job. Because of the rust to the fuel filter, changed in Greece, which is unchanged from the purchase of the ship, we suspected that in diesel there was water and diesel tank a lot of dirty residue. To our surprise it turned out that the fuel and fuel tank are immaculately clean and that nothing should be taken. It was a very pleasant morning in very good company. Before leaving Andrea came with his wife Roberta wishing us good winds and calm seas. That afternoon we cleaned the boat, bought food and drinks, and prepared things for the further journey. The next day was dedicated to the tour and sightseeing.

DSC04739At about ten minutes away from the marina, just opposite the Harbor Master, there is a bus station. Timetable for Sundays and holidays not promised the imminent arrival of a bus line no. 2 which we were supposed to take over the city center to the Archaeological Park of Greeco Theatro. Despite the intense heat, we decided to walk there. On the way, the overwhelming smell of Italian coffee was easily lured us into a nearby cafe. When we entered we were greeted by a crowd at the cash register and the throng of people looking for a free table. Looking around, we saw a table with four chairs DSC04758where was sitting a sweet elderly couple. We politely asked for a place and sat down at their table carrying a cup of coffee, a drink and a big bunch of grapes purchased from a dealer on the street. Soon we met and became friends with them. Through the cheerful chatter with these wonderful people we found that the Rosa’s lifelong dream was also navigate around the world and particularly wanted, if memory serves me, to get to know Scandinavia, which she never fulfilled. She is an American and speaks English and Italian. In Syracuse she came many years ago as an instructor of English and there met her husband Michael, who does not speak English and which has it never, as he said cheerfully, wanted to learn. In a happy marriage live for fifty years. The interest, which they shown to sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure, made us very happy. We parted ways from them and moved on down the street.

DSC04788Theatro Greeco is located on the Temenite Hill, with a beautiful view of the city of Syracuse. Sitting on the white stone steps it seemed to be ancient Greek scene come alive. It was built around 500 BC, with a capacity of 15,000 spectators and a diameter of 140 meters, which represented the largest theater in the ancient world. There were held the DSC04784premiere performances of Greek tragedies by Sophocles and Euripides and the comedies whose creator was Sicilian Epicharmos. During the bloody gladiator games, the Romans reduced the rows of seats due to higher performing space. The seats and the auditorium are made and based on natural stone and are DSC04794largely intact. Above Theatro is located cave Nymphaeum that still, through the ancient canals flowing fresh spring water.

During the summer months the Theatro Greeco is still used for performances and outdoor concerts. Watch the show in the early evening as the sunsets behind the stage makes the grcko kazalistescene a magical and unforgettable. On the way back, impressed with all that we saw in a very good mood, we played imagining people, lifestyle, clothing and fashion screams of this time. In the end, we were happy to be at that time we were not born. Talking so we did not even notice that we arrived in the city center. We stopped outside the shop that has drawn the attention of Peter and went inside. My husband collects smoking pipes is therefore one that smiled at him from the shop window he added to his collection.

27919935Our next visit was to the Castle Maniace, located on the cape of Ortygia. We learned that dates back to the 13th Century, it is an impressive building and a part of the rich cultural and historical heritage of the city, and was named after the Byzantine general Giorgio Mainace. Castle has long been a prison and later used for military purposes.

DSC04820On the way to the marina we went through the old town, next to the Cathedral of Syracuse, in whose sacramental chapel is a large fresco from the 17th century. It was late evening when we came on board. Bruno and Sylvia had not yet returned from the city, and we soon went to sleep. DSC04826Most of the next day we enjoyed a very pleasant atmosphere of socializing. Bruno and Sylvia each year spend their holidays sailing on his boat Jaganda and their maritime experience they shared with us. In Syracuse they sailed from the direction of Gibraltar and Spain. Sylvia is a physiotherapist and her outstanding technique recovered Peter’s injured knee. In the early evening together we left the marina and spend the night at anchor. That evening, before parting, we had dinner together at Jaganda. Pasta that Silvia was served had an excellent taste, which still today makes water into my mouth, and after dinner we enjoyed pancakes with jam and berries that flew from Meermowe. We just felt like we knew each other for years. The incident that occurred connected us with strong link, which is developed into one wonderful friendship that we’ll maintain for a lifetime. In the early morning we left Syacuse, each to his own, we toward the north and they to the south of Sicily.

The path led us further towards the Straits of Messina, which separates Sicily from Calabria and connects the Ionian and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Strong storm with DSC04848the rain that has engulfed that area was forced us to find a safe harbor. Sicilian coast offers a large number of marinas but rare are those that meet its depth for Meermowe. At about sixteen miles north of Catania we sailed to the city of Riposto. Marina “Port del Etna” is located in the city center. Nearby, along DSC04868the main road, there is a chain of supermarkets, fish, fruit and vegetable markets. We enjoyed this historic and picturesque seaside city for that few days while we waited for the weather calms down. Walking through the streets of the city, we thought that we entered into one of Fellini’s movie titles and return to at least a hundred DSC04870years. With my average knowledge of Italian, it was not a problem to domesticate and make friends with hearty fishermen who supplied me with a fresh caught fish, octopus, squid and other seafood. It seemed that nothing is impossible. Freshly caught grouper, which kind of fish was not long holding on the selling DSC04853place, I got for an hour. It was fun to learn from them what is the name of the fish as well as their desire to have their picture taken with me. Riposto is also famous for the production of wine, lemon and olive trees. The weather finally calmed down.  We said goodbye to all and with a fish full freezer we left marina, spread sails and sail one again through DSC04860Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

Passing through the Messina Channel, enter the Tyrrhenian Sea, meeting with Aeolian Islands, dolphins and huge rays that we saw, created an excitement. Interestingness of the Strait makes the ancient belief in the strong tidal currents and the vortex that is created in the channel as the two dangerous beasts, of which the sailors wanted to save while sailing through Messina. Scila with six heads sea monster that lives in the deep rocks and devour passersby and Haridba in the high rock, which three times daily draw water and creates a destructive vortex.

DSC04982Upon leaving Messina, we sailed into the marina Nettuno just to spend the night. That afternoon we replaced the bow sail for new, and old one gave to fix, because it was torn at the seams. In the morning the sail was returned after which we sailed for the island of Lipari, the largest and most populous island in DSC05025 chain of volcanic archipelago. Lipari town is a very pleasant place with beautiful alleys, glittering shop windows decorated with flowers, restaurants, and historic castle. The island of Stromboli, one of three volcanoes in Italy, we decided to visit by a fast tour boat with the tour program Panarea, observing volcanic eruptions in the night and dinner on board.   Bingo, are we could wish for better. The eruption we dreamed since the start in Pula, so DSC05077we expected it with impatience. Tickets we bought at the kiosk. We only had an hour to go, enough for lunch at a nearby restaurant. Catamaran sailed in two hours in the afternoon from the Marine Lunga. Stromboli is located in the north of Sicily. It is famous for its small and regular explosions in terms of 20 to 30 minutes, while larger DSC05153eruptions occur two to five times a year. The settlement and way of life at the foot of the volcano impressed us and it will remain an unforgettable memory. Without fear and prejudice about the dangerous lava and radiation, Stromboli residents do not live luxurious but a beautiful and relaxed everyday life, how they call it “la bella vita”. That evening we were bad luck. I was stiffened waiting to make the photo DSC05184of an imaginary fiery light, which lastly was the size of a small star so all I have left is to take pictures of the smoke. Peter and the company they laughed to tears on the lower deck. All appeared to be the story of a sick dragon Lino. It was ten o’clock at night when we arrived in Lipari, caught a bus and return to the ship happy and cheerful.

DSC05203Early in the morning we left the marina and sailed a course to Sardinia. The trip to Cagliari was a new challenge and experience. From slack and calm sea to the resistance of strong side wind during the night, which gave us a complete pleasure of sailing. Expansion and shortening sails Meermowe was leaning to the edge of the DSC05233deck on its way through the waves, which were like the walls rising in front of us like beasts and poured water from all sides. Increased activities on board are not given us sleep, we jointly share these moments that really has to be experienced. Unfortunately, my husband had to forget all the delicious dishes that I made for this trip and for the first DSC05208time used a package of cold foods, vitamins, fruits and juices, already prepared for this situation. In Cagliari we arrived in the early afternoon. That night once again we were participants of large fireworks with which we are proud to be thinking of our family, friends and all those who surround and follow us. Cagliari is the biggest city in Sardinia with a wonderful climate, popularly known as the “beauty of the Mediterranean”. Located on the DSC05261southern main island in the Gulf port. We did not plan a long retention, just to get some sleep, rest, refuel and buy new ropes in the marina shop, after which we left for Palma de Mallorca in Spain.

 

 

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TOWN OF CHARM AND ELEGANCE

29 Tuesday Sep 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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The journey to Corfu was a lot of excitement. It was not only the first trip longer DSC04433than one day but also our first romance under the starry sky. Sailing under the cover of night and shifting the duties during the trip was the one new and unforgettable experience that will stay with us until the end of our life’s adventures. As we sailed the wind under full sail, Meermowe liked to be played with the waves DSC04497switching from one to another until they are full of defiance powerfully struck in the bow and splashed us from all sides. The land was not there, wherever we turned, our view is terminated on the horizon. We had plenty of time to socialize. While Dino and Pipo particularly enjoy reading crime novel, I loved their comments. They could not agree whether criminals should be killed now or postpone it for later.

DSC04454

In the afternoon the wind died down and the sea calmed. We started the engine and moved on. For dinner we enjoyed a delicious stew with meat and vegetables, which I prepared the day before departure. The night was quiet and peaceful, moonlight reflected on the sea surface like small sparkling pearls. We sat at the helm until the smell of

DSC04498coffee spread cockpit. Happy and in love, Meermowe wore us slowly further and further. We wished that never dawns. All that could be heard in the middle of the night was well known music of the boat engine that woke us up from the dream.

When I think of Greece before my eyes I see pictures of the Parthenon in Athens, the magnificent Meteors, romantic Santorini, beautiful beaches and a few thousand years old cultural heritage. Greece is a very beautiful country, the cradle of civilization and a place where the laws of mythology ruled over millions of years. Whichever party you enter in Greece, you will come across the greeks favorite word “filoxenia”, which means hospitality.

Corfu_mapIsland of Corfu or Kerkyra, is the oldest Greek island in the Ionian Sea that is separated from Albania wide strait just 3 km. According to Greek mythology, the island was named after the daughter of the river god Asopa, nymph Kerkira, abducted by Poseidon. Because of its lush vegetation, this island the Greeks also call the “Green Island”.

DSC04524It was eleven o’clock in the morning, when we arrived in Corfu, the main customs port. Procedures around registration ended relatively quickly, after which we sailed in Gouvia, where we booked a berth two days before. Marina was full of sailboats and catamarans. DSC04690We were forced to tied at the private berth since only two places, which is the marina has had available, have not been comply with the size of our boat. We were tired and sleepy, so we decided to stay the rest of the day on board.

The next morning, while my husband was still DSC04534asleep, I used to meet Marina.  Among the wide range of facilities that we had available, swimming pool was the most interesting for me, which made me happy. Among the wide range of facilities that we had available, the swimming pool was the most interesting for me, which made me happy. Wasting no time, I went to the boat and grabbed a swimsuit. During this time Peter was already up. After breakfast we got ready to go to town. DSC04654At about ten minutes walk from our dock, on the main road, we caught the bus to Corfu. The day was sunny and very hot. The bus was full as the pomegranate what the ride seemed intolerable. Forty-five minutes it took to get to the centre.

Corfu is the capital of the homonymous island. It was built on a promontory and DSC04607has a unique architecture that is reflected in the elegant buildings, beautiful villas, nice palaces and squares with lots of trees and flowers, which gives it a unique charm, elegance, character and atmosphere.   In the city dominates two fortresses, which characterize him as “Kastropolis”, “City Fortress”.

DSC04551A typical urban atmosphere greeted us at the exit of the bus. Soon we merged with the river of passers and headed down the street. All around us were the restaurants, taverns and cafes. With great pleasure we are in one of them ordered a chicken salad with an excellent taste. The kindness of these wonderful people has been known DSC04545

since ancient times, while is the island of Corfu, after Odysseus journey, was a border line between the known and the unknown world of the Adriatic Sea.   There are also shops with clothes, jewelry and souvenir shops and is hard to imagine to come and not to buy.

DSC04560After lunch, we headed down the road to a new fortress, erected in the late sixteenth century. It is located across from the island of Vido, close to the port. We went through one of the remaining two gates in the impressive Venetian fortress with dungeons, basements and walls. The fortress is now used as an exhibition space and organizing cultural events.

DSC04583Old and New Fortresses connects a combination of wide and narrow streets full of people. In this part of town it is possible to find and buy everything “from a needle to a locomotive”. Passing by, we came across the Fish Spa shop. It is suitable for tired skin and improves circulation. Gara Rufa fish are known worldwide. They are long 5-10 cm, belonging to the DSC04558family of carp, and silvery gray are the colors. They have no teeth and have a very strange feature, they feed with surface layer of human skin and thereby emit ditranol enzyme that contributes to the rejuvenation of the skin and relieves symptoms of patients with psoriasis. They live in thermal waters where the water temperature is 28-38 * C. The fish are harmless, and the entire procedure, which is DSC04602carried in tanks, hygiene is completely safe for humans. Fish-doctor was greatly attracted to Peter’s attention and aroused his curiosity, so he decided to enter the shop and try. The entire treatment takes ten minutes, although it is possible to stay longer.  My husband stayed twenty minutes. At first confused and in the end happy and satisfied with a big smile he left the shop. I wonder, that he stayed only ten minutes longer, maybe fish could also affect and his rejuvenation!

DSC04623Not long then, we were standing in front of the most impressive building of its kind in Europe, the Old Fortress. As we have learned, its construction began 986 years, during the Byzantine Empire. In addition to protection from the enemy, and was used as a quarantine of infectious diseases. In the fortress we entered a DSC04632drawbridge that crosses the canal, which separates fortress from the square. Inside the fortress there is the Anglican Church of St. George, in one of the rooms, today is the Music Academy of the Ionian University. Beside it is the city Royal marina. The old fortress is one of the most scenic parts of Corfu town with which we have enjoyed in DSC04615the fascinating views of the beautiful old town, the harbor, the bay and the island of Vido. Corfu Town has many more interesting monuments that decorate it and talk about its history but it is DSC04612impossible to see everything in one day. It was seven o’clock in the evening when we arrived at DSC04656the marina at the pier. Surprises never enough, we forgot to insure the footbridge, which was lay off from the ship and disappeared from the dock. Looking around, we saw it floating in the middle of channel of the marina. The day I finished in style, I jumped into the sea, swim under the pier and led it to the ship. While we were laughing out loud our neighbors came to see what was happening. We were tired, and after dinner we went to bed.

Visiting the Island Vido, which is located only a KOSTURNICAkilometre away from the port of Corfu, was our next step. On the island is located a mausoleum ossuary Serbian soldiers from the First World War, who were pulling over Albania and Montenegro to Corfu, the “island of hope”, which is known as the “Albanian Golgotha”.  Infected of typhus, many were treated on the nearby island Lazareto but the most affected were transferred on, at that time uninhabited island Vido. plava grobnicaDeceased Serbian soldiers are buried in the Blue Tomb in the depths of the Ionian Sea. We were deeply impressed by the sad story of the fate of a large number of Serbian fighters. Walking and talking about all this we boarded the next DSC04662boat that took us back to a cheerful and joyful reality.

Intrigued by beautiful stories of a small seaside town on the Coast of Ion Sea, next day we arrived in Syvota that was on the way to Sicily. It is on for a full three to four hours far, depending on the wind strength. It is situated in a beautiful little bay, where we anchored. We were very comfortable in this old DSC04669fishing village and we are in the period of our stay every day came by dinghy to the shore to DSC04677get a coffee in a cafe or tavern and for a walk along the waterfront that surrounds the harbor and yacht marina. We both enjoy the maximum rest and swim in this little paradise of beautiful secluded beaches of the archipelago.

PISINA
Most of us attracted Pisina with the smallest white sand, which is located opposite of Syvota. Leaving Syvota we sailed once more in the customs port of Corfu to unsubscribe from Greece and sailed to Italy.

 

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THE OLDEST OLD WOMAN OF EUROPE, SYMBOL OF THE CITY BAR

09 Wednesday Sep 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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BOKA KOTORSKA MAPA 2Sailing into the Bay of Kotor, in the front of Zelenika, the first Montenegro customs port, by radio, we tried to announce our arrival, but to no avail. Montenegro flag on the right and yellow, in maritime jargon called “Q” flag, were fluttered on the first cross of the mast, therefore we freely agreed to the customs pier.   DSC03983Wind and waves pounded out the ship to the shore, which was a problem for a longer retention on the dock.   It was four o’clock in the afternoon. Peter immediately grabbed a folder with documents prepared and went to the harbormaster’s office, customs administration and the police. The procedure is protracted and waiting seemed endless. During that time I watched the ship and its safety. My husband is very familiar with Montenegro, so he had a great desire to sail into Boka. When he showed up with a red label and a smile on his face, I knew everything was all right. Releasing the ropes with cleats dock, we sailed to Tivat.

crna gora authenticIf I had to describe Montenegro with only two words, surely it were the words: Mountains and Sea. Montenegro is a small Mediterranean country with fascinating mountains, beautiful coastline, very old towns and famous history, while the Montenegrins recognized by a caring relationship with a woman and love for his sister and mother.

DSC03995Porto Montenegro in Tivat, located in the city center. Blinded us to its modern and luxurious look. Palm trees that have seen already from the entrance to the marina, reminded the tropics. Hotels, promenade, shops and services are provided high standard. “J 09” was a mark of our pier along which we easily tied.  After kebab, fried potato and LJETNIKOVAC BUCAtomato salad, which I prepared for dinner, we took a walk along the waterfront, sat down in a restaurant and had a drink. Tivat is nice place and it is not surprising me, as many of kotor’s nobility had their summerhouses here. One of the most famous is summer residence of the family Buca. DSC04010On weekends, in those beautiful summer nights on the waterfront, is organizing an exhibition and handicraft market in which we particularly enjoyed.  We met and became friends with a few people who are proudly exhibited their works of art. DSC04006One of the most impressive, for Peter, was Montenegrin folk fiddle, musical instrument. Happy and full of impressions we returned to the boat and went to sleep.

At the entrance to the Bay of Kotor there is the Austro-Hungarian fortress Punta Ostro, which dates back to the 19th Century. She’s about fifty meters, and an imposing stone building, DSC03981which was once, defended the monarchy against attacks from land and sea. Boka Kotorska is an ambient of great contrast. He left a strong impact on me and I experienced it in my own way. While in one part the rocky mountains rising up from the sea, in the second part there are botanical gardens. Historical sites of ancient civilizations have been merged into a single fund. Mimosa, camellias, palms, pomegranate, agave and lemon, are only part of a wide range of plants in this area.

DSC04172While Meermowe slightly sailed inside the part of the Bay of Kotor, by view we followed the winding highway that linked the chain of small towns and cities along the coastline. Whichever part of this magnificent mosaics that I looked at, always seemed to me more beautiful than the last. At that moment, I wanted to have a great camera, DSC04176that those hundreds of pictures, which I did with my little Sonny camera, to unite in a single and evoke that magical beauty.

On the way to Morinj, where we decided to anchor and spend the night, we were refreshed by a pleasant breeze from Verige, the channel behind DSC04152which there are two picturesque islands, St. Juraj, covered with lush vegetation and slender cypress trees, which because of its mysterious appearance, was the inspiration to many artists to have their works and Our Lady of the Rock, where there is a votive shrine sailors. He was made by a DSC04151constant filling of stones and still continues today.  Morinj is located deep in the fjord, at the foot of a high mountain range. In the bay we arrived in the early afternoon. Looking at the place from the ship seemed to be all that we can see here, is on those few minutes walk DSC04093on the main road. We were not aware of how we were mistaken. Without wasting time, we took the dinghy and went to the shore. We got off the main road and by walking, we came to the old mill. Passing across the bridge, through the alley of reeds, we entered into an enchanted world of beauty catering attractions in the family restaurant Čatović. DSC04097While we were drinking coffee, around us has flowed the water. We enjoyed the view of the birds, the old stone bridges that are hovering over canals of little rivers as well as the overall atmosphere that reveals the hidden beauty of Morinj. Darkness was already down when we DSC04116returned to the ship. The night we spent more vigilant than we were sleeping. As the wind blew strongly and the waves rolled us on all sides, we were sliding towards the neighboring board. Immediately we raised anchor and change position. The morning we met sitting and drinking coffee in the cockpit. The weather calmed down and by eleven o’clock we decided to hike to the DSC04119Upper Morinj. Four kilometers curving ascent led us to the foot of the mountaintop. Along the way we picked and ate figs and berries, drank cold spring water, and enjoy the beautiful view of the bay. Passing through the village, in which still living only two DSC04129old women, we have come to the old school, the first on the Balkans on the national language, and today museum. Our hike ended at a stone bridge, and the road still continued to Herceg STONY BRIDGE MORINJNovi. With a good mood, we returned to the ship. The effort has paid off for one such experience, no DSC04125matter what my husband constantly complained about the slope and heat. That evening, we sailed to Risanj because of bad weather followed by heavy rain and thunder, and the next morning we went to Kotor.We sailed into the marina in the city center. Main road separated us from the market fruits, vegetables and local DSC04205products and “Gate of the Sea”, the main entrance to the old town. From the boat, we enjoyed the view of the old fortress of Kotor. To avoid strong sun and high heat, this afternoon we spent on the boat.  We studied ARC scripts for crossing the Atlantic, we have sent several mails and fix some DSC04204minor things on board. After dinner we took a walk and got acquainted with the city. According to myth, the Colchians, members of the Phoenician tribes, finding himself in the stern Argonauts, Jason, Hercules, Theseus … in pursuit of a symbol of all DSC04234the maritime resources, the Golden Fleece, founded Kotor. He is as old as the sea trade in the Adriatic. This is one of the few Mediterranean cities known as the city-maze, which makes it very special. Although are available maps of the city, it is easy to get lost in this maze of baroque squares with unusual names, Square of Arms, Market of Salads, Square of Milk …

DSC04255Being in Kotor for me, means not only feel the spirit of the most beautiful fjord in the Mediterranean, but also the spirit of the Bay of Kotor, what makes him a unique.

The next day we decided to climb to the top of the fortress. Fort St. Ivan, or as popularly called San Đovani, is located above the ramparts of the old town.

DSC04259It starts with stairs that leading to the top of the fort. Climbing up, we enjoyed a fantastic view of the entire bay. Special lights that make her more impressive illuminate the ramparts of the fort at night. Pictures of Kotor and the Bay of Kotor from the top of the fortress, I cannot describe in words, but first need to experience. In Kotor we stayed there for three days, after which DSC04265we were on course for the city of Bar, for us the last Montenegrin port.

From Kotor to Bar we sailed about five hours. The weather was quiet, peaceful and very hot. During the trip several times we turn the engine off and floated on the water to enjoy jumping and swimming.DSC03079 Dino and Pipo enjoyed the shower in the shade of the cockpit. Near the port of Bar we found ourselves near the brown shadow that lurked just below the surface of the sea. I thought it was a hidden stone cliff. Pipo started yelling, “Land on the sight, land on the sight”, while Dino quieting him “no drama pumpkin, it is too small to be any land.” That moment when I wanted to DSC03357warn my husband, we noticed that the brown surface moves. “It’s a sea demon” was Dino’s comment. We were very excited to find out what actually happening. The reply we received when we came closer. It was a huge turtle with brown armor diameter of about 1 meter. “Hey Dino, it would be great to surf on it,” said velika kornjaca 2Pipo, what Dino said, “Cool.” Meermowe quickly progressed and she was left behind us and disappeared into the depths of the sea.  In late afternoon, we sailed into Marina Bar. While I performed routine tasks, Peter dealt with paperwork with the management of the marina. Before going to bed we walked the picturesque waterfront, which was full of people and vendors on the market. There I IMG_0539bought two beautiful large shells, which are local fishermen caught in the large network along with the fish. Whatever they are no longer in the sea, when you put shell to the ear you can still hear the sound of the sea, as a sea story.

Staying in Bar we did not want to miss an opportunity go by bus to visit Sveti Stefan. The island is connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus and is the most luxurious summer resort, both in Montenegro and the Adriatic Sea. The DSC04304fortress surrounded by walls completely transformed into a “hotel-town” and can only be organized to visit with a high price. The streets, walls, roofs and facades kept their original shape, and the inside of them got the most contemporary hotel comfort. Among the celebrities who have stayed in Sveti Stefan are DSC04312numerous film stars: Sofia Loren, Kirk Douglas, Sylvester Stallone, writer Alberto Moravia, Greek composer Mikis Theodorakis and Soviet cosmonauts led by Gagarin.

We climbed the stairs over the hill and walked past the King’s beach while the Queen’s beach entry DSC04322allowed only to hotel guests. From the many beaches that belonged to the hotel, just on one, which was flooded with swimmers, were free to swim. We had no great interest to hold for a long time in Sveti Stefan, so DSC04324we already at three o’clock waited for the bus for Bar. Who knows how long we would stand at the station, had he not come taxi driver Dino. For the price of bus tickets we decided to go with him. For a little more than half an hour of journey, how long it took us to get to DSC04330the Marine Bar we met and became friends. Dino loves Bar, is very proud to live here and knows a lot about the city. Knowing about our adventure he wanted to show us the old town, which is six kilometers away from Bar. The road, which took us into the hills, the view goes on the oasis of DSC04328olive trees, which covered the entire region. We stopped for a moment to enjoy the view of the beautiful Muslim shrine, whose magnificent building rises at the foot of the old town. We reached the main entrance to the walls, from which the hill runs a road full of DSC04409shops and greatly reminds the Sarajevo township. While we were walking along the old cobbled streets and squares, Dino was waiting for us in a restaurant. The Old Town Bar is a fortress that is for centuries, been the center of Bar, as long as the city has not moved lower, in the field. DSC04342Today it is abandoned and is in ruins, which bear witness to the once successful shopping center. There, during the Middle Ages, have minted copper coins, and later silver dinar. Hour and thirty minutes it took us a tour of the fort and enjoy how the traces of the past, as well as beautiful DSC04352views of the suburb, today’s old town. Hour and thirty minutes it took us a tour of the fort and enjoyment in the traces of the past, as well as in beautiful views of the suburb, today’s old town. In the store of DSC04380old stuff, my husband bought for the souvenir a beautiful copper Turkish coffee set. There we met with a tall, young and very DSC04414dear merchant Nedzad, whose dreams are traveling. We said goodbye to him and went to look for our friend Dino. Before returning to the marina, he also drove us to the oldest old women of Europe, old olive tree, the symbol of Bar. It is located in the village Mirovica, on the way to Ulcinj. This, legally protected monument of nature is more than 2000 DSC04416years. The scope of the tree is 10 m and is surrounded by a protective fence. Legend has it that was held around the olive meetings of feuding families and at that point there was reconciliation. The olive symbolizes peace, wisdom, strength and durability, and what she is among the plants, it is a dove among birds. On the way back to the marina, with great gratitude, we said goodbye to our friend, the taxi-driver. Certainly is that we were not at the bus station Sveti Stefan that moment, would never have met Dino and by leaving Bar we could be deprived of one of such knowledge.

DSC04379The next day we are dedicated to preparing for our first journey, longer than a day. It was dark when we left the bar and set sail heading towards Greece.

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SHORT AND SWEETER THAN CREAM CAKE

30 Sunday Aug 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

≈ Leave a comment

DSC03863Pedja was already sitting on the cleats of the pier when we arrived to pick up him. Standing on the bow, my heart was pounding like crazy. His sudden arrival in Dubrovnik has brought a new wave of happiness, bright ideas and pleasure. Pedja has great preferences for adventures, discovering new places and explore the unknown, which showed early in childhood. Business in London, which had suddenly come up, gave him the idea of ​​the arrival to the ship. He loves the sea and ships, the more so, he plans one day cruise on the own sailing boat. My husband and I eagerly we expected his arrival. At that moment, all our emotions are poured into a strong hug and a handshake.

DSC03860Heat and large temperature difference between London and Dubrovnik, have forced him to immediately unpacked and settled into the cabin. He did not hide his excitement when he saw us, and ship, and wasted no time soon, along with his father, found himself in a man’s world that only they can understand. It fumes from Cuban cigars that he brought with him, as in the Indian camp. Only that was missing were wigwam and feathers on the head. While I was in the kitchen preparing dinner, I enjoyed the sight, seeing them so dear, smiling and cheerful, with that “Die Hard” charm.

DSC03857We spent the evening in the Bay of Sunj, on the Island of Lopud, near Dubrovnik. Enjoying the sea folly, I was happy watching our son so relaxed, which is a rare opportunity. Pedja has a lot of work and I was not surprised by the obligations he has brought with him to the ship. Sitting in the cockpit, a long time we talked about everything and went to sleep.

DSC03867Since we were very short of time, the next day we decided to re-sail to the Island of Sipan, known as an oasis of Dubrovnik aristocrats. We were thrilled to learn that Sipan entered in the Guinness Book as the island with the most olive trees in relation to its size and population.

Ljetnikovac_Suđurađ SIPANThe island is also known for its ancient family villa Stjepanovic-Skocibuha. Pedja enjoyed this oasis of peace and beauty. We had lunch at a nearby restaurant and the evening we walked the coast.

DSC03951The next morning, we sailed to the ACI marina Dubrovnik where we had booked a berth for two days to visit all together, the old town before Pedja’s departure.

DSC03865While sailing Pedja wanted to see our level of readiness in case of serious situations and disasters at sea. In driving, he suddenly jumped into the sea in the middle of nothing and shouted, “Man overboard”. At first we were confused and did not know what’s the matter but we quickly came our self and approached the rescue procedures. I must admit it was very exciting and effective, especially because we noticed a large ship sailing in the direction of Pedja. The final part of the rescue, wrapping it in a blanket, Pedja was skipped due to high heat.

DSC03862Our son was very proud of us and the results that we had shown. He also introduced us to some other markings on a plotter that can be applied to facilitate the search of the crash at sea.

That afternoon, while Pedja handled his responsibilities, my husband and I, we used for the planning and preparation of the boat for

DSC03936our further journey. Marina is located in Dubrovnik River and covers a wider area of ​​the river Ombla. At the source of the river, which connects with the sea, beneath the large rocks, vineyards and olives, in the valley of peace settled Rožat. The church on the hill, which can be seen from the marina, attracted my attention, so I got up early in the morning and

DSC03964prepared to explore while my sweet fighters for men’s rights were in sleep.The road to the Church of the Assumption goes over the bridge on the main road, and then the hill, narrowly DSC03948passing along an old stone house. Next to the church there is an old DSC03954cemetery with a beautiful view of the Dubrovnik River and marina. On the way back along the river Ombla , it was interesting to see fisherman DSC03962who took a rake green algae from the water and placed them into kiddle for fishing. It was eight o’clock when I got back on the boat full of happiness. After breakfast we were ready for a new adventure in Dubrovnik.

On the main road in front of the marina, we caught the bus, which we drove toward Pile, to the city. Immediately after getting

DSC03869off the bus, caught us a view on the magnificent curtain walls that surround the marble streets and baroque buildings of the old town. All together, the churches, monasteries and museums with fine stonework reminiscent of the tumultuous history and artistic tradition impressed us.

DSC03879Placa, or promenade popularly called Stradun, the backbone of the city is a mix of cafes and shops with monuments of extraordinary beauty. My husband also enjoyed the refreshing, drinking cold water from one of DSC03877the fountains that are found on the Stradun. Look through walls with the tallest buildings is perfect, as it seems at the same time unreal. European poet Lord Byron was not mistaken when he declared that Dubrodnik is a Pearl of the Adriatic. We enjoyed all this with a top mood despite the heat that has accompanied us.

When we got to the old port, from which every fifteen minutes touristic boats drive to Lokrum, ignoring the dark clouds hovering over the city, carrying rain and thunder, we DSC03915decided to visit that nature park. According to the legend, on Lokrum salvation from shipwrecks found Richard I the Lionheart, returning from the crusade in Palestine. richard I Lavljeg SsrcaTestament by which he will, if the save, build a church on the site of salvation, was partly fulfilled. He saved on Lokrum, but at the request of Dubrovnik they agreed that a church will be built in the town itself, instead of on the island.

DSC03897We bought tickets for the ship that he was ready to go. The crew was greeted passengers with a smile. The ship was sailing to the island of less than fifteen minutes. It seemed insufficient to absorb the beauty that have is promoted before eyes. It DSC03900seemed insufficient to absorb the beauty that is promoted before our eyes. At Lokrum we swam, walked and ate lunch in a cozy restaurant. Beautiful peacocks could be seen all over the island.  Not missing any traffic signs prohibiting such as this in the picture. If you smoke a cigarette, it is obvious that you are welcome in the nature park Lokrum.  DSC03919Suddenly, the rain just fell on the island. It soon created a large column of visitors who waited for boarding for Dubrovnik. On the way back we wanted to drink coffee and eat cake. DSC03933Pedja loves cream cakes, which, unfortunately, we have not managed to find in any of the restaurants and cafes. In order to make him happy, I resolutely walked to a nearby supermarket and bought all I needed.

krempitaThat same evening in the front of Pedja I served a tray full of cream cake. He was happy as a child. Clean I was enjoying watching him.

Although we did not want, it’s time tirelessly passed. It was Wednesday, the day of Pedja’s departure. It was really short and sweeter than cream cakes. Every moment spent with our children is our great satisfaction of the happiness in life. It was hard to watch his departure but remained hope and joy of our meeting on the Caribbean Islands. After saying goodbye to Pedja, that afternoon we set sail from Dubrovnik to Cavtat, the last port in Croatia in order to complete customs procedure and headed towards Montenegro.

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CHRONICLE OF VELA LUKA

25 Tuesday Aug 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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vela lukaConquering still the vastness of the blue Adriatic Sea, we sailed to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula. Passing by beautiful bays in which we were able to anchor, Peter decided to tie the boat to the buoy directly near the waterfront and near the main pier for passenger ships coming from the direction of Split and Dubrovnik. DSC03725Many years ago, by living island life, I often traveled between Split and Lastovo, and while large ferry was docking on the main dock, I enjoyed the view from the deck on the largest city on the island with a mild climate and clear sea.

The next period brought us a new excitement about meeting our new guests, friends from Italy, who were supposed to board a ship in Vela Luka. For this reason, we came three days early to do shopping and prepare the ship. Soon we were drove the dinghy to the shore.

DSC03734First we met with the city, seeing where they are located, and then we stopped at a supermarket where we bought everything we need. On the way back we saw the advertisement about musical evening on the waterfront, it was the Festival of Dalmatian songs, which did not surprise us because, Korcula is known for original songs, local wine and sardines. It was five o’clock in the afternoon when we returned to the ship.

DSC03728Sitting in the stern and watching environment in which we were, I noticed that except us and one other boat, In our surrounding, no one else there wasn’t there, which is, for this time of year, was very strange. A large number of buoys, which has been floated all around us, were eerily empty. I was not feeling most comfortable, so I suggested my husband set sail from this place and anchor in one of the bays we’ve seen at the entrance to Vela Luka.

dalmarinska klapa vela lukaBelieving in the correctness of Peter’s decision, we stayed there overnight. The festival began at nine o’clock. At a hundred meters away from us, we enjoyed on the aft deck, listening mandolins and guitar in the hot summer night. It was nearly eleven o’clock when we went to sleep not knowing that we will be, after midnight, the main characters of crime story as in the novel of Aghata Christie.

The night was quite noisy, which is why I used to wake up. Music has drowned out any sound and it was impossible to hear anything else except the beautiful melodies. The festival was finished in the early hours.   I got up as usual before my husband, intending to write a blog. I noticed that there is no computer that was left, last night, on the table on the charger. Immediately it was clear that we had “guests” on board. I woke Peter, after which we found that, in addition to computers, missing iPod, camera, Peter’s IPhone and Shimano fishing rod with a big machine, we have prepared for catching tuna in the oceans. While we are on the iPod had all the electronic maps, very important for our trip, my husband was heartbroken when he saw there is no fishing rod. Luckily we had my mobile that stayed behind, which we used for further communication.

100883eTheft is quickly reported to the police. The burglars destroyed the card from iPhone and thus inactivate him, but they had not counted on the factor of surprise, our “Inspector Poiroa”. Our son Pedja, that moment, was on a business trip in London. When he heard for the robbery, over the Internet he found the position of the iPod, since the card was still active, and contacted the police.

IMG_8737With the help of folders, which they had received through the messenger, they are successfully, in record time, found and arrested the criminals and return all that we have been robbed in excellent condition.

The thieves have admitted all for what they are charging what falls into the category of aggravated theft because we slept on the ship, where it could come into a physical fight with an unknown outcome. Later we found out that also with our stuff it was found a scooter stolen the same night at one o’clock after midnight from the neighboring ship. A police inspector, Zanetic Alen from Korcula, endlessly thanked our son to help. Everything was going the film speed and this would probably be the shortest crime story in the world with a happy ending.

otok lastovoA police report had to be signed within a few days in the city of Korcula, which is located on the other side of the island of Korcula, where there is the main criminal administration. We didn’t want to stay longer in Vela Luka, so we, with the approval of the police, decided the same day in the early evening sail to the Island of Lastovo.

Jurjeva3We were accompanied by strong winds, so we enjoyed the sailing. Darkness already came down, when we arrived into the Jurjev’s Port, which is also part of the National Park Lastovo. It was eight o’clock in the evening and the port was already full of boats, we had no place to anchor and we sailed into the next bay where we stayed overnight. The next morning we got up, had breakfast, enjoyed swimming and walking around the bay. After lunch we drove the dinghy to the small town of Ubli.

ubli lastovoMy husband and I know Lastovo very well because we spent a wonderful period of our life right here, so this was our first visit Ubli after 35 years. Through only two streets, located in the village and a small square, we walked with great curiosity. We were really excited about seeing the house where we lived, popularly called “Villa Tomich”. In three of the four apartments, how many that building had, were lived three families Tomich, from different parts of the former. Yugoslavia. The island is still beautiful but everything other has changed and nothing was as before. Cake Shop in which our children enjoyed cakes, no longer exists, Hotel “Sirena” is definitely destroyed, until the settlement on the nearby hill very neglected and the only thing that still worth is the magnificent view of the Jurjeva’s Port.

On Lastovo we met with our old and dear friend Dragan called “Smoki”, who was spending his vacation in Lucica place with his wife Emica. Watching each other in wonder as if we are not who we are, handling and excitement, after all these years, made this meeting memorable for life. We exchanged a few words in a hurry and we agreed to visit us the next day on a boat where we will talk in peace in full. It was Saturday, planned departure to Korcula on Sunday we switched to early Monday morning.

IMG_0315We could not wait for their arrival. Dragan has no preference toward marine vessels and our adventure, as well as the ship is provoked in him a great interest. While Dragan and Peter, with coffee and cream cakes, overturned by the past, I enjoyed in Emica’s company. Given that Emica is a same age as I, born on the Island of Lastovo, and that she lived for many years in Australia, we found a many of common points and topics for conversation.  Enjoying their company, the time simply flew. It was five hours afternoon, when we said goodbye to our friends, with the desire to meet again.

Adventure, like this one we have and way of life, which we temporarily live, do not recognize the attachment with people, space and time. Sorrow and regret for something there is no place. Faith in yourself, firmness, patience and positive attitude is our strongest weapon, no matter how it is hard for us. Smile and hope, that will everything what was nice and pleasant, be happen again in other circumstances, is all that should remain behind us.

DSC03775We sailed into the city of Korcula and tied it to the pier, in front of the police building. I stayed to wait on board while Peter went to sign a crime statement. At three o’clock in the afternoon, at the bus station we planned to welcome our friends from Italy.

DSC03737Two more hours we had to wait to their arrival, so we decided to take a peek into the past of this sun-bathed town. In the old town we enter through the south entrance, the Town Tower Revelin, built in 1391. Her beauty charmed us. Stone streets, popularly known as “kale”, very similar to the streets of the old Split, decorated the facade of elegant

DSC03741mansions and every stone were simply spoken about the past times.

The city of Korcula is known for its traditional dance “Moreska”, a knight’s game with swords, which represents a historic battle between good and evil.

moreskaThe annual dance performance is on the day of Saint Todor, protector. It was almost time of arrival of our friends, we quickly had coffee in a restaurant enjoying a little bit more in the view of the sea and we went to the bus stop. We were happy with their arrival, more than that, we are expected and imminent arrival of our son in Dubrovnik.

DSC03777It was Tuesday, the bus came right on time. Luca and Roberto, are childhood friends. Although Roberto lives in South Africa and Luca in Dubai, their arrival brought us the famous Italian charm. They were thrilled with Split, where they boarded the ship to Vela Luka, as well as travel by bus from Vela Luka toward Korcula. The appearance of villages and configuration of the terrain of the island reminded to Italy and they felt like at home. Our friends had never stayed on the boat, so did not hide their excitement about the vessel.

DSC03782The heat was unbearable, even thermometers were given up of measuring the temperature of the air. The only solution for refreshment, upon boarding, we found by swimming and jumping into the sea, after which they Luca and Roberto settled into their cabins. Private commitments have not allowed them stay on board longer than 4 days. Destinations that we planned to visit were therefore directed towards Dubrovnik due to their departure, and because of the arrival of our son. We did not have much time available.

DSC03783The evening we spent in a pleasant chat, laughing and enjoying the salami of deli specialties. Around nine o’clock the next morning, we left Korcula in the direction of the Islands of Mljet, Sipan and Lopud.

The whole time we sailed using the engine because the weather was quiet, with no wind and the sea was calm, what has created new DSC03792ideas for enjoyment. While Luca was interested in sails and sailing techniques, Roberto has mastered the technique of anchoring and rope folding. Several times at anchoring in bays, he was let down the anchor and lifted anchor chain. He enjoyed in that and it was cute to watch the way in which it worked.

DSC03791Also they both took part in the daily work of cleaning the ship. Lightly dragging a floating dingy, they have been scrubbing the boat from the outside of the hull. Better to say Roberto was cleaning while Luca and Peter were watched and teased him. It was wonderful to have them on board.

DSC03850Roberto has not married yet, has a very good heart and the unforgettable and striking smile on his face and it was not surprised me when Luca said, “Everyone loves Robert”, especially women, as in the series “Everybody Loves Raymond.”

We enjoyed the beauty, tranquility and picturesque

DSC03841look of the all bays where we spent nights as well as in walks along the coast. I believe that they will Lopud and fishing remain long in the memory. We caught eight fish where they enjoyed lunch licking his fingers. Luca and Roberto will long remember this trip and Meermowe, as well as the cuisine and wine, which they enjoyed on board.

DSC03844Saturday morning, the day of their departure, we sailed into the port of Gruz in Dubrovnik to dropped them on the pier to catch a bus shuttle to the airport. We said goodbye, once again we looked in the back of dear people and said see you soon. We waved to each other while Meermowe has not vanished behind big boats.

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VIS, ADVENTURE ABOVE-AVERAGE BEAUTY AND ENJOYMENT

18 Tuesday Aug 2015

Posted by Jasmine in English, TRAVEL BLOG

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DSC03554With goodbye to our friends, we said also goodbye to Split. From the stern, over a long and foamy furrow, which made the boat engine, we watched the city to get lost in the haze on the horizon. Meermowe has impeccably carried us on his hips, once again in the direction of Solta, where we decided to spend the next two days in the company of my cousin, and move on through Meermowe’s Great Adventure.

vapnenica na soltiThis island does not offer much to modern inhabitants, but can a lot to offer to nature lovers. Solta was once famous for the production of lime, which talks about the difficult life of costal farmers. Today, the island is known for roosters “strong throat”, which not only kukurika in the morning, but also through the day. Instead of playing the guitar and with the romance awake people, their kukurika overrides even the bells of the church and

soltanski pjetloviferries in the harbor. If the croatian series “Gruntovcani” would be record again, probably roosters from Solta will awake Dudek and Regica every morning and thus get an important role in the film.

Mladen lives and works in Zagreb. Spending holidays in a house on the sea, along with his father, eagerly expecting us. A one-day stays aboard the sailing left a strong impression on him. He was happy and impressed by the ship. He was interested in electronics and the working principle of the instruments on board and sailing techniques. After a dinner at their house, with good Solta’s wine, we played cards, Briškula and Treseta and returned to the ship.

DSC03098The next day we used to prepare the ship and the way to new destinations. We reviewed the map, determined the course, checked the shallows and anchorages and the supply of water and fuel, in which we got a help from Dino and Pipo, as true sailors. With all of the obligations that we’ve had in 40 * C, found the time for refreshment in cold drinks and swimming.   Pasta with truffles was served for dinner for two, after which we drove the dinghy to the shop.

DSC03555Carrying shopping, we walked to see my aunt and cousin and say goodbye before leaving. In the early hours of the next morning, we left Necujam. In Rogac we took fuel and water and left Solta.

That afternoon, we sailed to the town of Vis on the island of Vis. The harbour was teeming with boats in the charter.

DSC03584There was no way to dock ship on the coast so we were tied to the buoy in the Bay of Kut. That entire crowd around the ships, entering and leaving the port, gave a special charm to which Peter was very enjoyed.

Town of Vis is situated in the Bay St. Juraj. It developed from the former settlements Kut and Luka, which are merged into a single unit. Antique Issa, was founded by the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysius the Elder, as the Greek colonization of the Adriatic stronghold. I believe that is few who left Vis saying that will never come back, or that they have had enough of this island.

DSC03596

The first thing you’ll see and feel on the arrival is the crystal clear water and odor. What makes him known, by unspoiled nature because it was inaccessible for tourists for years, is not a lie. Wild lavender, myrtle and rosemary will follow

lavandayou to the inland and on the coast of the island.

Immediately after routine cleaning of the ship, with dinghy we moved ashore. Despite the strong sun and heat, we headed towards the English fortress Fort George, which we saw from the boat on a nearby hill.

DSC03592Fort George III, the largest fortress is located at the western entrance to the port of Vis. It was created by the British Royal Navy in 1813. After nearly two centuries it was used for military purposes, the fort was abandoned and restored. During the summer days here there are organized various concerts and entertainment.

DSC03612To it’s place it is most easily reached by car, but Peter and I have rather decided to walk and enjoy in fantastic views of the city of Vis. Preparations for the wedding an English couple from London were under way, when we got to the fortress, which gave her a festive look.

DSC03620On the way back, we went to the supermarket to buy a watermelon, and many scooters parked and exposed to the waterfront, were a response to a question, what is the easiest way to visit and get to know the island. So Peter decided to rent one the next morning.

DSC03605Having a drink in one of the “hundred” restaurants, known by country bread and sardines on the spit, we returned to the ship. By the end of the day all the places in the harbor were filled. It was really impressive to be part of that crowd. The evening, with good food, wine and romantic music with computers passed us in an instant. We have not even turned and it was already time to rest. It was not difficult to go to sleep because, early in the morning, waiting for us new challenges.

DSC03632The agency to hire scooter opens at nine o’clock. I do not like ​​motorcycles and the idea about scooter, although it sounded crazy didn’t give me to sleep. I was thinking about my first run with Peter on Tomos scooter, which ended before we even started, as in the cartoon. In our younger days, my husband had an irresistible urge drive me through his village and probably enchant with his abilities and skills driving the engine. In order to make him happy, with fear I sat behind him.

prase u kaljuzi 1 It was rainy weather. Started engine, when it was in third gear, has resulted in a strong flick of where I was thrown into a muddy bar. I looked like a pig in a quagmire while Peter laughed to tears.

Given our youthful experience, this adventure I approached with great caution.

DSC03633

Renting a scooter, my husband had to make a few test drives, in order to gain confidence. Fully equipped, I was tightly hold for Peter and we have successfully start to move toward Komiža. The ride was more than pleasant. I was happy and satisfied especially

DSC03635because the maximum speed scooter was 35 km per hour. We stopped at the first lookout, on a hill overlooking Komiža. The view from this place is indescribable. Below us stretched a perfect panorama of the city. At this point, we envy the birds, because in this panorama they can enjoy it whenever you want.

Given the great heat, motorcycling has been good to us. We refreshed with drink and fruit, and continued on going closer to the center.

DSC03641Komiza, a picturesque town on the western side of the island with a centuries-old fishing tradition. In the past exclusively fishing village and more recently a very popular tourist destination. It is situated in a large bay surrounded by high mountains and facing the sea and the sun. It is known for first-class fish specialties, olive oil and fine wines.

DSC03643When we arrived at the waterfront, cafes, pizzerias and pastry, were filled with people. Everyone has found his place, somewhere in the shade while enjoying broad awnings and umbrellas or on a wooden bench on the waterfront in the shadow of wide crown long-lived trees, hiding from the sun and heat.

DSC03646We first walked these narrow streets and then we chose a table for two for coffee and eat ice cream.

DSC03644That entire scene we were delighted so we decided the next day by boat to sail to Komiza. We would love to rest longer in town, but we had to move on.

DSC03661The winding road led us to the highest excess top Hum. Immediately below Hum is “Tito’s cave”, in the past known as the “Ghost Cave”, until 1944 when it was the headquarters of the partisan army and the seat of Tito’s government. At the latest, the hilly section of the road, scooter dropped the soul and had no more power to both of us bring to the finish line, and I the last five hundred meters, at a temperature of 39 * C had to hike.

zena glavaOn the way to Vis, we passed through the village of Žena Glava (Womens Head), unusual name whose origin there are two theories. While some think that the name of the place associated with arid zones, Žedna Glava (Thirsty Head), others argue that in the distant past of the place, the head was a woman. After all we have seen and experienced, we returned to the ship. We were happy we had a scooter available. There is no doubt that I would do it again.

DSC03257

The rest of the days we spent in swimming and enjoying. While my husband found peace in reading exciting books, I edited the blog. With coconut roll, after dinner, we watched a movie and we have gone to sleep. Leaving Vis, in the morning,

DSC03564we sailed to Komiža intending to visit Blue Cave on the nearby island of Bisevo. The weather was quite windy. Full Sail we enjoyed sailing and waves.

The island of Bisevo is a special attraction in Komiža archipelago with a unique phenomenon in the Adriatic Sea, the famous Blue Cave, a rare example of natural beauty. It is very small

DSC03688and low entrance from the sea and in the time of south wind, the entrance is dangerous, sometimes even impossible. Between 11:00 and 12:00 o’clock the sun’s rays enter the cave through the entrance area, which is under the sea, break and create a cave strange blue light, after which it was named. The influence of bad weather, unfortunately we did not have a chance to keep it for a long time near the cave, so we left Biševo and sailed into the Bay of Komiza with the intention to spend the night and the next day we go any further. The bay seemed empty, it was not crowded and adherence to the buoy was a “song”. Due to strong currents and wind I could not keep the buoy in the hands, which I accepted with a boat hook, so because of the current the boat dragged me so hard that I had to throw a stick in the sea or to jump from the boat. Within a minute hook sank and disappeared. In my hand was stayed only the rubber insert. Sadly I watched it but luckily we had a spare one, which we finally successfully tied.

DSC03702Komiza, as a favourite destination of many boaters, is often not able to accommodate all the ships that wanted to make it in place, as confirmed in the afternoon when the boats started to come one after the other, catamarans, sailboats, yachts…, it seemed like a real invasion. My husband has found himself in all that he

DSC03582enjoyed as a child. Excitedly commented on everything that is happening around him, while I was preparing dinner. The highlight of his passions was when both sailing and catamaran sailed into the bay in the race for the last free buoy near us.

DSC03628At Peter’s call I went out to the stern and laughed to the scene. Where each of them held on to their rope threaded through the loop. They argued about who came first, one of them was Italian and the other was a German. Can you imagine what it looked like the fight, because no one spoke English? The case was quickly resolved with the help of the Komiza port crew.

DSC03609Vis is one of the most beautiful Croatian islands. For him, many will say that it is a place where time has stopped. This is true when it comes to natural beauty and food. Despite the changes in lifestyle, old, irresistible Mediterranean charm and life without stress and bustle, Vis is above average adventure of beauty and enjoyment.

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