With goodbye to our friends, we said also goodbye to Split. From the stern, over a long and foamy furrow, which made the boat engine, we watched the city to get lost in the haze on the horizon. Meermowe has impeccably carried us on his hips, once again in the direction of Solta, where we decided to spend the next two days in the company of my cousin, and move on through Meermowe’s Great Adventure.
This island does not offer much to modern inhabitants, but can a lot to offer to nature lovers. Solta was once famous for the production of lime, which talks about the difficult life of costal farmers. Today, the island is known for roosters “strong throat”, which not only kukurika in the morning, but also through the day. Instead of playing the guitar and with the romance awake people, their kukurika overrides even the bells of the church and
ferries in the harbor. If the croatian series “Gruntovcani” would be record again, probably roosters from Solta will awake Dudek and Regica every morning and thus get an important role in the film.
Mladen lives and works in Zagreb. Spending holidays in a house on the sea, along with his father, eagerly expecting us. A one-day stays aboard the sailing left a strong impression on him. He was happy and impressed by the ship. He was interested in electronics and the working principle of the instruments on board and sailing techniques. After a dinner at their house, with good Solta’s wine, we played cards, Briškula and Treseta and returned to the ship.
The next day we used to prepare the ship and the way to new destinations. We reviewed the map, determined the course, checked the shallows and anchorages and the supply of water and fuel, in which we got a help from Dino and Pipo, as true sailors. With all of the obligations that we’ve had in 40 * C, found the time for refreshment in cold drinks and swimming. Pasta with truffles was served for dinner for two, after which we drove the dinghy to the shop.
Carrying shopping, we walked to see my aunt and cousin and say goodbye before leaving. In the early hours of the next morning, we left Necujam. In Rogac we took fuel and water and left Solta.
That afternoon, we sailed to the town of Vis on the island of Vis. The harbour was teeming with boats in the charter.
There was no way to dock ship on the coast so we were tied to the buoy in the Bay of Kut. That entire crowd around the ships, entering and leaving the port, gave a special charm to which Peter was very enjoyed.
Town of Vis is situated in the Bay St. Juraj. It developed from the former settlements Kut and Luka, which are merged into a single unit. Antique Issa, was founded by the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysius the Elder, as the Greek colonization of the Adriatic stronghold. I believe that is few who left Vis saying that will never come back, or that they have had enough of this island.
The first thing you’ll see and feel on the arrival is the crystal clear water and odor. What makes him known, by unspoiled nature because it was inaccessible for tourists for years, is not a lie. Wild lavender, myrtle and rosemary will follow
you to the inland and on the coast of the island.
Immediately after routine cleaning of the ship, with dinghy we moved ashore. Despite the strong sun and heat, we headed towards the English fortress Fort George, which we saw from the boat on a nearby hill.
Fort George III, the largest fortress is located at the western entrance to the port of Vis. It was created by the British Royal Navy in 1813. After nearly two centuries it was used for military purposes, the fort was abandoned and restored. During the summer days here there are organized various concerts and entertainment.
To it’s place it is most easily reached by car, but Peter and I have rather decided to walk and enjoy in fantastic views of the city of Vis. Preparations for the wedding an English couple from London were under way, when we got to the fortress, which gave her a festive look.
On the way back, we went to the supermarket to buy a watermelon, and many scooters parked and exposed to the waterfront, were a response to a question, what is the easiest way to visit and get to know the island. So Peter decided to rent one the next morning.
Having a drink in one of the “hundred” restaurants, known by country bread and sardines on the spit, we returned to the ship. By the end of the day all the places in the harbor were filled. It was really impressive to be part of that crowd. The evening, with good food, wine and romantic music with computers passed us in an instant. We have not even turned and it was already time to rest. It was not difficult to go to sleep because, early in the morning, waiting for us new challenges.
The agency to hire scooter opens at nine o’clock. I do not like motorcycles and the idea about scooter, although it sounded crazy didn’t give me to sleep. I was thinking about my first run with Peter on Tomos scooter, which ended before we even started, as in the cartoon. In our younger days, my husband had an irresistible urge drive me through his village and probably enchant with his abilities and skills driving the engine. In order to make him happy, with fear I sat behind him.
It was rainy weather. Started engine, when it was in third gear, has resulted in a strong flick of where I was thrown into a muddy bar. I looked like a pig in a quagmire while Peter laughed to tears.
Given our youthful experience, this adventure I approached with great caution.
Renting a scooter, my husband had to make a few test drives, in order to gain confidence. Fully equipped, I was tightly hold for Peter and we have successfully start to move toward Komiža. The ride was more than pleasant. I was happy and satisfied especially
because the maximum speed scooter was 35 km per hour. We stopped at the first lookout, on a hill overlooking Komiža. The view from this place is indescribable. Below us stretched a perfect panorama of the city. At this point, we envy the birds, because in this panorama they can enjoy it whenever you want.
Given the great heat, motorcycling has been good to us. We refreshed with drink and fruit, and continued on going closer to the center.
Komiza, a picturesque town on the western side of the island with a centuries-old fishing tradition. In the past exclusively fishing village and more recently a very popular tourist destination. It is situated in a large bay surrounded by high mountains and facing the sea and the sun. It is known for first-class fish specialties, olive oil and fine wines.
When we arrived at the waterfront, cafes, pizzerias and pastry, were filled with people. Everyone has found his place, somewhere in the shade while enjoying broad awnings and umbrellas or on a wooden bench on the waterfront in the shadow of wide crown long-lived trees, hiding from the sun and heat.
We first walked these narrow streets and then we chose a table for two for coffee and eat ice cream.
That entire scene we were delighted so we decided the next day by boat to sail to Komiza. We would love to rest longer in town, but we had to move on.
The winding road led us to the highest excess top Hum. Immediately below Hum is “Tito’s cave”, in the past known as the “Ghost Cave”, until 1944 when it was the headquarters of the partisan army and the seat of Tito’s government. At the latest, the hilly section of the road, scooter dropped the soul and had no more power to both of us bring to the finish line, and I the last five hundred meters, at a temperature of 39 * C had to hike.
On the way to Vis, we passed through the village of Žena Glava (Womens Head), unusual name whose origin there are two theories. While some think that the name of the place associated with arid zones, Žedna Glava (Thirsty Head), others argue that in the distant past of the place, the head was a woman. After all we have seen and experienced, we returned to the ship. We were happy we had a scooter available. There is no doubt that I would do it again.
The rest of the days we spent in swimming and enjoying. While my husband found peace in reading exciting books, I edited the blog. With coconut roll, after dinner, we watched a movie and we have gone to sleep. Leaving Vis, in the morning,
we sailed to Komiža intending to visit Blue Cave on the nearby island of Bisevo. The weather was quite windy. Full Sail we enjoyed sailing and waves.
The island of Bisevo is a special attraction in Komiža archipelago with a unique phenomenon in the Adriatic Sea, the famous Blue Cave, a rare example of natural beauty. It is very small
and low entrance from the sea and in the time of south wind, the entrance is dangerous, sometimes even impossible. Between 11:00 and 12:00 o’clock the sun’s rays enter the cave through the entrance area, which is under the sea, break and create a cave strange blue light, after which it was named. The influence of bad weather, unfortunately we did not have a chance to keep it for a long time near the cave, so we left Biševo and sailed into the Bay of Komiza with the intention to spend the night and the next day we go any further. The bay seemed empty, it was not crowded and adherence to the buoy was a “song”. Due to strong currents and wind I could not keep the buoy in the hands, which I accepted with a boat hook, so because of the current the boat dragged me so hard that I had to throw a stick in the sea or to jump from the boat. Within a minute hook sank and disappeared. In my hand was stayed only the rubber insert. Sadly I watched it but luckily we had a spare one, which we finally successfully tied.
Komiza, as a favourite destination of many boaters, is often not able to accommodate all the ships that wanted to make it in place, as confirmed in the afternoon when the boats started to come one after the other, catamarans, sailboats, yachts…, it seemed like a real invasion. My husband has found himself in all that he
enjoyed as a child. Excitedly commented on everything that is happening around him, while I was preparing dinner. The highlight of his passions was when both sailing and catamaran sailed into the bay in the race for the last free buoy near us.
At Peter’s call I went out to the stern and laughed to the scene. Where each of them held on to their rope threaded through the loop. They argued about who came first, one of them was Italian and the other was a German. Can you imagine what it looked like the fight, because no one spoke English? The case was quickly resolved with the help of the Komiza port crew.
Vis is one of the most beautiful Croatian islands. For him, many will say that it is a place where time has stopped. This is true when it comes to natural beauty and food. Despite the changes in lifestyle, old, irresistible Mediterranean charm and life without stress and bustle, Vis is above average adventure of beauty and enjoyment.