As adventurers and lovers of the sea, Peter and I, we had and still have a lot of dreams. One of them, probably most, was to cross the oceans and sail around the world, while the passage of the Panama Canal, in front of which we just were, certainly deepened our dreams and turned them into unique and unrepeatable experience anywhere in the world.

That afternoon, Meermowe left the Shelter Bay Marina with a crew of five members fulfilling the requirement of independent transit. Steve Barrett and Steve Parker, our friends from the ship Waterman and surfer Tom that is of Croatian origin, who was travelling and surfing through countries of Isthmus Panama, were a fantastic team who helped us to cross the canal. With them, we share all our feelings, happiness and excitement. Late in the afternoon we sailed in Lake Gatun. We anchored at the location from which we boarded the first pilot who led us through this part of the canal. Numerical strength of our crew was reason enough to use the waiting time to prepare dinner. For this occasion, I chose for something simple, quickly and abundantly, stuffed peppers in tomato sauce and mashed potatoes. For dessert, I baked pancakes stuffed with cottage cheese, sprinkled with chocolate. Smells that were spread from Meermow’s magical cauldron are created the mouth water and opened the appetite.  I enjoyed the atmosphere and mood that prevailed on board. Everything was ready, while beer, wine and rum already cooled in the refrigerator.

Panama Canal is long about 80 kilometers. Its construction began Frenchman Ferdinand de Lesseps, who are lack of money and incurable disease, prevent in its completion. Further construction work were took over Americans, successfully connecting the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific, after which, over a hundred years, through the Panama Canal sailed the first boat. From that, a hundred years of heavy historical crate, I would earmarked a very interesting story about the achievement of the American adventurer Richard Halliburton, the first man who, swam the entire length of the canal. Going through the chamber, due to their weight he was considered as “the lightest boat”, on the basis of which he paid the lowest fee for the crossing that ever paid, amounting to 34 cents.

The pilot arrived with motorboat shortly before six o’clock. We could not believe how much he looked like Raul Castro. Using the knowledge and experience he immediately took command of the ship. Ropes and fenders, as instructed, were placed on either side of the deck, attached to bollards and ready for use. Twilight had already started to fall when we left the anchorage and headed towards
Gatun Lock. We moved slowly in the convoy of ships, aligning a row one after the other. Surrounded by giant freighters and tankers, it seemed we were less than what we are.

Crossing the canal, from the Caribbean to the Pacific, altogether takes about 24 hours. The canal consists of three sections chambers, Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores in two independent directions. Locks are working on a very simple principle, raising the ships for 26m on the level of the artificial Lake Gatun and then lowering to 26m at sea level.

The lights at night were becoming closer and bigger. A few hundred meters separated us from the door. Shortly before entering the lock, we waited for two boats that have followed us, in order to connect with them in a single unit. Peter did not hide his excitement and joy, which are like fireworks emanating from him. “This is exactly what we wanted and what we will do now”, was his message addressed to my view. Finally, at the default beep, heavy doors were started to be as on the viking-castle, widely open. Holding the required distance from a large merchant ship in front of us, we slowly walked into the first chamber. Pilots were synchronized to manage the movement of our boats and work of people on board. Immediately upon entering, officers on the walls of chamber, who joined us on either side by two, threw to us thin lines with which they are fetched our ropes from bow and stern that they are used to manage and control the distance from the ends.

Unlike sailing boats, special cables that towed electric locomotives called “mulas” drive merchant ships. They are named after animals that have traditionally been used to

cross the Panama Canal. Delight had expanded through the deck on all three sailboats as infection. Like the paparazzi I used all of our cameras, in desire that with all of you who sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure, we share this unforgettable atmosphere. It was extremely, and even bits frightening when were the heavy door closed behind us. It reminded on the detainees in prison, which will free Robin Hood or perhaps Three Musketeers. Suddenly, large amounts of water have begun to charge the room. Turbulence and eddies they were felt all around us. For every transit needs millions of gallons of fresh water, with which, by the system of pumps from the artificial Lake Gatun, chamber fill up in less than ten minutes. By raising the boat to the required level, the door of the second chamber is opening and the principle is repeated. In the third lock, we rose to the level of Gatun Lake when we, with own drive, stepped in its tropical waters, release the rope from the other boats and tied to a huge buoy. Dinner was divine. Our Castro, enjoying the flavors, simply was melted with pleasure, which is why he regrets that the next day was not in our shift, to lead us on.

The evening was beautiful, quiet and peaceful. With the smell of white coffee that was spread through the cockpit, we enjoyed the pleasant company, but not for long, because we had to get up early. With a birth of a new day should arrive the second pilot.   Everything was ready but he was not in sight. The remaining two boats are had long since sailed. We were left alone as the orchestra without a conductor. The atmosphere and mood were on the level while waiting time has seemed endlessly. At the right time and the right place, just like a priest, with the scent of oregano, which was spread with the first baked pizza for lunch, our dear pilot appeared, who stayed with us until the end of the transit. Just after eleven o’clock in a hurry we were left buoy. It took as soon as possible to pass Pedro Miguel, get to Miraflores Lock up to four hours in the afternoon and prepare for the descent into the Pacific. Diversity of this part of the canal, made our transition even more exciting. Lake Gatun was once the largest artificial lake in the world. The rainy tropical forests surround it while in its central part there is exotic Barro Colorado Island that we passed with cries of monkeys, which have been coming from the surrounding jungle. To our satisfaction, certainly were contributed and crocodiles, who have swam along the Chagres River, the largest tributary of the lake. For some of them the only head was visible. Looking at them, I felt something as shudder, while in Dino and Pipo was awoke Crocodile Dundee. They were that much entered the spirit of everything what they saw, that they were nearly landed over the ship. I can imagine to feathers and sponges would flew on all sides to them is one of them picked up. With their mischief and playfulness, are completely conquered our crew. Passing through the narrowest part of the channel Culebra Cut at Gamboa, we got the new vistas to the terraced hills and Freedom Bridge, under which we passed. The beauty of its line and attractive structure amazed us. Recalled the San Francisco. We approached the Pedro Miguel Lock, and tied for the same sailing boats with which we passed through Gatun. Entering the room, as with water elevator, we descended down to the level of Miraflores Lake, in wich we sailed with great expectations. Behind us, with a snail’s pace, was moving gigantic ship. With curiosity and disbelief we watched his entry into the Miraflores Chamber. An impressive six centimetres, on each side, were separate him from the walls. It was a fascinating scene, in front of which Peter felt like a cockroach that could be crushed at any moment. The liveliness of the lock, gave many passengers with tourist ship, from which have arrived amazing comments directed to the Meermowe as a sailing boat and questions of curious about our adventurous venture. Originally, we were tied to their ship and then untied and merged with another boat in a block of two. Sailing into the final chamber, we find ourselves face to face with the last door. Two baskets full of cold beer, wine and champagne, we brought out on deck and they were ready to celebrate. Pacific, the only thought which occupied all our senses. We stared at the heavy doors as in the celestial miracle. Level of water on both sides finally equalized. Sound signal, on which the door began to open slowly, believe me, was quieter than the heartbeat in our chest. The door finally opened. We moved forward and while the foam of beer spilled over the cans, we were bravely face with the new challenges of the Pacific. Night has already fallen when we’re at Balboa passed under the beautiful Americas Bridge towards the Isle of Flamenco. The road link such as breakwater which connects it to the mainland, is made of rocks extracted by digging the Panama canal and therefore is called Amador Causeway. We dropped anchor near the marina and thus joined our group. Our crew, that same evening, dispersed and again we were alone. Next three days anchorage and this city were our new home, so we decided to visit the most attractive places in the city and learn about its culture.

With the new morning, dawned the new excitement. Ship ropes and buoys, which we used in transit, we had to bring to the reception of the marina.  The chances do it on the choppy sea and under the wind with our small dinghy, were very small. Friends have diverged and we are, like Lolek and Bolek, started unwise to think how to perform it. Ropes we were threw in and throw out of the dinghy, tried with different combinations, but there was no help. Whatever that we tried the boat was small. Suddenly, my husband yelled, “come on, that’s enough fooling”. I knew that his blood pressure had risen to red so immediately I sat into the dinghy, how he could throw me out, on the coast and then returned to the ship. After about half an hour, while I was sitting and waiting for him in a small cafe, there was a clamor, noise and laughter. I looked in the direction of a group of people, our yachtsman, who gathered in ever-greater numbers, pushing each other is to be closer to the fence. I decided to see what it was. The scene was brilliant. With a big smile on the face, like Speedy Gonzales, my husband was chasing in the dinghy over the waves, surrounded by ropes and buoys like a fugitive from a swarm of bumblebee’s females. It was missing the only Mexican shout “Yarriva, Yarriva”.   “He who can gets two”, is an old adage. Through a very short time, Peter has gained great popularity. Steve Barrett, who was part of our crews through the Panama Canal, made the picture you see. If would that lasted a little longer, who knows probably this picture could be on the pages of Panamanian Newspapers or on TV. In the end, we were quite happy and with the idea to compete for the best image, “Around the World” ARC 2015/2016. That afternoon we drove by taxi to Panama City, Ciudad de Panama or as it is popularly called “Little Miami”. Pleasant and friendly people, a weird mix of new and old, richness and extreme poverty one beside other, piles of garbage and beautiful nature, certainly describe this city. The modern metropolis and old town are two totally separate mid designed for themselves. It was for us a unique experience beyond expectations.  Upon the recommendation of taxi-driver, we disembarked in the center of the old town of Casco Antigo. His, red brick paved streets lead us to the Square of Plaza Cathedral. Everywhere, renovated buildings in pastel colors with decorated balconies and beautiful courtyards surrounded us. Mixtures of Spanish and French architecture disclose their authenticity and give them a special charm. The main square is surrounded by historical buildings in the shadow of beautiful Tabebuia trees with pink flowers. Plaza Catedral from time to time, is used for musical performances, fairs of food and clothing, on which also expose Kuna Yalla handicrafts from the island of San Blass Archipelago. Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria la Antigua de Panama, known as the Metropolitan Cathedral, was immediately captured our attention. This old Roman Catholic Church is one of the largest in Central America. On each side of the main entrance, there is white tower decorated with mother of pearl from islands of Las Perlas Archipelago. Dark brown stonewall and wooden door give her the appearance of very interesting building. We planned to take a peek inside it but unfortunately it was not open to visitors.

Walking through the city in the unbearable heat, it should proclaim as sports’discipline. Thirst that we were feeling was turned into a mirage, which was captivated us like a virus. While we cried to for large mugs of cold drink with lots of ice, Jugo Juices shop, appeared before us as commissioned. Without thinking we stepped inside as wilted tulips. Fortunately there were no crowds and the two big cold fruity happinesses, based on beetroot and banana, soon they became a pleasant reality.

Casco Viejo is full of very interesting stories related to his past and a time when Panama was, in search of gold, the main attraction of pirate attacks. Whether crude robbers or not, all of us in some way, we love to listen about the pirate’ adventures and feats, of which have lived and all what one pirate makes different from the common man. One such story is located in the Cathedral Iglesia San Jose that was very intrigued us, so we walked toward of San Filipe suburb, how we would investigate her. The church is known for it massive golden altar called “Altar de Oro” what means “Golden Altar”, which survived a pirate attack and remained preserved. This impressive structure is not really made of pure gold, already carved mahogany covered with gold leafs and flakes. At that time the altar was located in one of the churches in the first city of Panama, “Panama Viejo”. During the attack on the town of English pirate of Henry Morgan, the Jesuits are, in fear that they could lose it, painted the altar in black, to hide gold. Not suspecting that they are outsmarted, pirates have left intact the altar in the conviction that it is worthless. After the Morgan looted and burnt “Old Panama”, the altar is relocated in the new church at its present location.

After the successful rescue of the altar, we decided to sit down somewhere and save ourselves from starvation. We opened the glass door of a beautiful, modern and very elegant restaurant that we got in the way.  Its name we did not registered because we were too occupied with lunch and intoxicating scents. It was a real refreshing oasis on the saharan temperature that ruled outside on the street, in a very pleasant and relaxing environment. Panama has no traditional cuisine but dishes are very tasty and made with fresh ingredients, while the service is more than quality. Bottle of cold red wine we ordered, appetizer and salad of calamari, soon were served at our table. After lunch we were back in function, ready to confront with the sun, as Don Quixote with the windmills, and move forward.  Between Casco Viejo and the Canal is located a very rusty and the unsightly part of the city. The streets are full of garbage, stench and drunks, which are lying in the sidewalks. It is characterized with poverty and misery, shops full of nothing and tables that offer rotten fruit. The district is prone to protests and manifestations of discontent, what did not surprised us. Although we felt very embarrassed, we passed these streets, where under open sky, takes place everyday life. Barbers doing shave and haircut in the street while people wait for their turn, dentists extracting teeth in the partially destroyed house for $ 5 while consultations are free of charge. As our son Pedja said, “more misery and poverty means better experience the city”. True, there is something in it, even though it seems that we do not have being here to look for. We left this idyll and were headed toward the French Park, which was built as a memorial on the extremely large number of French workers who have lost their lives in the construction of the Panama Canal. Geometric is designed and has a unique panoramic view of the Amador Causeway and modern metropolis. In the evening we returned by taxi to the marina. Sea and wind were calmed down so we absolutly dry have managed to arrive on the ship.

Panama City is known for its shopping. Although we had planned just restore food supplies, which are in Shalter Bay in Colon, mostly ended up in the trash, we decided the next day to go to Allbrook Mall, one of the largest in the city. Shopping center is located about twenty minutes drive from the marina. We went out from taxi in front of the main entrance. In the mall was ruled sparkle. Next to large giraffes, entertainment park and little tourist train for a ride through the shopping center, I melted like chocolate in the sun. We noticed that the prices are affordable and everyone can find something for themselves. Peter had immediately, like a burdock, been glued for the sports shop “Hunting and Fishing” and bought a 2mm thick cable stainless steel, that it is fish would not bite through. He was that much happy so is two hours after that just talked of her, as about an ingenious solution. Accidentally that I had not recalled him to buy plastic container for diesel, he would even forget that we need it. Finally we come to the supermarket where we bought food and drink for further journey on Galapagos. The rest of the days, we used for rebuild fishing equipment in marina shop. Believe me, Panama is an ideal place for it. Everything was so cheap that we could not believe it. We have used a chance and bought ten new seductive baits in front of which, our pets like in front of a registrar, are could just say “YES”. Before returning to the ship, we picked up our passports and the necessary papers to leave the country. The next morning was marked by preparation for departure. One after the other the anchors were lifted from the sea. We were left the Flamenco in the direction of Las Perlas Archipelago, the last destination in Panama.

The trip was short and very pleasant for sailing. Contadora Island is one of over two hundred islands in the group, located in the Bay of Panama. The name of archipelago comes from the time of the Spanish conquerors that discovered the islands and large quantities of pearls on them. It used to be a “place to go” just for the rich and famous. Except members of Panamanian government, here were staying Christian Dior, the former Iranian Shah, John Wayne, Sophia Loren and many others. Las Perlas it also was the place where were filmed three seasons of TV series “Survivor”. For us this was a tropical paradise full of enjoyment, excitement and nominations, beautiful white sand beaches and friendly people always ready to meet when needed. When I think like a sailor then this is the ideal place to stay before sailing to the Galapagos Islands. In the afternoon we anchored in the Bay of Playa Cacique. By radio-link we reported Rally Control about arrival and we decided to the end of the day to stay on the board. With this beautiful specimen, Peter was once again proved its fishing virtuality. After dinner I ended up some more jobs how would we had as much as possible of fun and exploration next day.

Beautiful morning with the sounds of waves, promised a day of enjoyment. Beach bathed in sunshine, which stretched in front of us, simply called us from the boat. After a good breakfast, we took the dinghy and drove on ashore. The boat we were well secured from the tidal waves and headed for the trail to Villa Romantica, located on a hill just above the beach. The restaurant is first league with a large panoramic terrace, where from a beautiful view of the anchorage. In the parking lot next to the entrance, there were a couple of parked electric cars to golf courses. Immediately we rented one of them and as kids looking for adventure got into it. The winding road we raced downhill and uphill, what was this enjoyment. Laughter to tears especially when was, near the airport ended up asphalt. Surrounded by dust, with cobblestone we arrived to the largest beach on the island, Playa Larga. We stopped in a deserted and totally ruined hotel complex Contador. Although in the ruins, you can still sense the beauty of the former appearance. “The owner of the complex was killed in a plane crash, leaving the business to the large debts,” was the only information that we got. Let’s say so, but all together it looked like the narco calculation. We walked a bit along the beach, where there is also a stranded cruise ship. For sure, he is also covered with a veil of secrecy that we have not had time to discover. We have rather stayed in our happy and playful reality, so we moved on. Going through the woods, with beautiful houses and estates, we stopped in a few other bays, between which one is attracted us the most, Playa Dimaggio. The island has a few mini markets with a very small offer and shocking prices. In the immediate vicinity, we sat in a cute cafe, refresh with a beer, coffee and cakes then we returned to the Villa Romantica. We enjoyed this ride, as well in the wind, which was cooling us. We had plenty of time, to do another circle around the island and discover some new places that we missed.

With dinner on the beach, we said goodbye to our hosts. During the awards ceremony crews with the best time for sailing on this leg, the crew Meermowea was appointed to the best team with the most enjoyment in sailing. We could not believe our ears until we realized that it was about us. On this occasion we got a bottle of quality wine from Panama, which we immediately opened and shared with friends at our table.   The problem of returning to the ship is turned into a fun and laugh. Namely, frequent waves did not allow us boarding in the dinghy, by constantly returning it to the sand. We had to go into the sea to the waist, hit the right time between two waves and jump into the boat. My husband had succeeded at the second attempt, while I was still jumping and rolling around, struggling to get into the dinghy, before the waves pushed us back. In the last minute Peter grabbed me for pants, threw in like a sack of potatoes into the dinghy, turned on the Penta and ignited toward the ship. We were wet and full of sand. From laughter we could not close the mouth. It was genuine madness. The next morning we raised the anchor, set sail from the Isle of Contador and definitely left that marvellous country of Panama.  All that was left behind us is this sandy message. The course was leading us toward Islands  of Galapagos.

For many participants the group of cruisers, with which we crossed the Atlantic Ocean, Saint Lucia represented the end of the rally and had already long parted our separate ways, leaving a furrow memories of a wonderful friendship in which we all breathed together as one and had a common goal, to win the Atlantic. Party meeting with the new group of sailors, which we joined and marked the sixth anniversary of the ARC Round the World Rally 2016-2017, was spent in a beautiful and friendly atmosphere with hot salsa rhythms. We had two more days to start. Although we felt completely ready for the beginning of a new and apparently demanding adventure, we still could find the little things to fix.

We set sail with great impatience. Back to the sea, was the thought that ran through our veins, mental food that we gave life and bird in flight, when her wind hits the chest. It was a thought full of pride and happiness that we felt while stood on the deck and watched the forest of white sails with the other vessels, which surrounded us as we descended down the west coast of Saint Lucia, sailing toward open sea of the Caribbean Sea.

Never in our life we haven’t dreamed that we would ever visit Columbia and all of our knowledge about it, we were picked up with the TV or from the papers. A large number of active volcanoes and frequent earthquakes, make her as fiery land of Pacific, tropical rainforest region of the Amazon, the high Andes mountains and prairie plains, in many documentaries, describe it as a place that arouses interest and curiosity, while my favorite movie “Romancing The Stone”, displays her as adventurous country full of romance. The world-famous first-class coffee “Juan Valdez” certainly promises an irresistible pleasure in its taste and smell, while the name of the most notorious criminal in its history and the leader of the most powerful drug-cartel, Pablo Escobar, presents her as a country of crime and drugs. As I thought about Colombia, the compass led us right to the Cape Gallinas and Peninsula De Guajira.

The day was beautiful with the wind perfect for sailing. It was one of the most comfortable trips by then. Completely calm sea and ideal wind 15-18 knots, woke the sailing passion. Meermowe was simply sliding surface of the sea as with the skates on the ice. Even the world famous skater’s names on skating, such as the Russians’ couple Protupopov, were not our level. Their virtuosity on the ice we replaced with triple fishing twists and fishermen’s complains. Suddenly and unexpectedly, the well-known biting sound of nylon Zzzzzzzzzzzz …, which turns into the most beautiful note, once again sounded and passed through our ears. That we after several months of navigation have seen the land, we would not be such happy, but we would probably even missed it, when it comes fish. All the senses we have given to these pleasures of duel. Twitches and the way in which our beauty moved through the water they said that it was a new species. Indeed, it was a long, flat fish dark gray and white color with vertical stripes heavy 8.5 kg. After some time, a mysterious dandy there was in safe hands and quickly became the star of the day, but not for long. Its resemblance to a barracuda, which differs only their short vertical lines and the realization that she might be infected with various viruses that picked up by eating small animals of coral reefs, they created dilemma at Peter. In a conversation over radio station with a crew of other ships, even more so, it was confirmed that in the case of barracuda longer than a meter that does not we reserve for possible infection. Assuredness ruled. “Roger” has exceeded a length of 125 cm, so we were happy to get him back into the sea while he was still alive. But this glorious and dangerous fishing story full of viruses experienced its peak and ended a few days later after arriving in Santa Marta, when we saw the fishermen carrying three completely identical “infected fish” in first-class restaurants. At that moment, we found out that this is a first class and very tasty fish of Wahoo. I just closed my eyes and stayed with no words. Returning back the movie I felt “Roger’s” closeness.

Looking Wahoo how happy loses in depth, we decided to have a coffee and enjoy the rest of the day. While Pipo was resting in the sun, Dino enjoyed the view of the sea observing fishing rod. The water just started to boil when Dino began yelling “Fishhhhhh…, Fishhhh… Hurry up”. So much was screaming that we have not heard the buzzing of nylon. Removing water from the fire, hastily I went out and really nylon was difficult hauling. “There will again be an epidemic,” teased the Dino. But this time twitches were recognized, it was a “blue tail” tuna. Soon we found ourselves face to face with Peter’s favorite fish that was real excitement and happiness, and Dino was not indifferent while it’s beauty has won its look and charm.

Further journey we spent enjoying in the sun, play, everyday obligations as well as romantic sunsets and sunrises. Fifteen miles before Punta Aguja it looked as if we were mistakenly sailed into another story. Weather conditions have drastically changed. A cold wind and the sea simply went on a rampage and watered us from all sides. It seemed that we are in the vortex that we do not move from the place. As it were, for us, Santa Marta simultaneously has been so close and so far. In that swirling, gusts of the wind have ranked the volume up to 35 knots while the sea foamed and pounded on the nearby cliffs. We moved stormy shortened sail until we went into Punta when the wind and the sea have began to calm down. We crossed the finish lane early in the morning and sailed into the marina of the oldest city in Columbia and successfully bind to the pier “F”.

Santa Marta is the first established place in Columbia. It is situated in the Bay on the coast of the Caribbean Sea at the foot of the mountain massif of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The popular beach of Playa Blanca, extends along its coast. The city is not characterized by clean streets, but stands out a rich and ancient history, colonial architecture, beautiful beaches and national parks, which certainly reveals the beauty of this country. Promenade along the waterfront is not full of floral aromas, abundant with large sculptures of human figures that express the weight of life and the struggle for life as well as vividly and a lot of people in the evening.  That first night we arrived, effusive of the walker’s river, we enjoyed the atmosphere that surrounded us. Handicrafts, clothing and footwear were offered on mobile tables and trolleys at every step, while the smells cooked food and chorizo sausages with barbecue spread all around us. It looked expensive and unattractive and so we were not too disturbed after a very tasty tuna with spinach and lettuce as I prepared for dinner. In Santa Marta, we stayed pretty short, only four days, so we tried to maximally use the time to get to know the city and its surroundings.

My husband and I, frankly, have never been big fans of visiting a museum, and especially not in the heat and sultriness in the broad daylight. Never say “never” because the Museum Del Oro Tairona, with whom we met as part of an organized visit the next day, we were very interested. It is located in a beautiful colonial villa known as Casa de la Aduana, which means the customs office. The museum is not only living story of the history of the development of the people and city of the time, but a treasure of interesting collections of objects Tairona. These are mostly ceramics and gold, which were decorated men and women, describing their life, death, ceremonies and rituals. The most interesting part of the museum was about Simon Bolivar, the great unifier of Columbia, whose chronology of life, triumphs and his affairs, are the memory of the time in which he lived.  We were impressed by beautiful specimens of cactuses and iguanas in the Botanical Garden that is located as a part of his residence where he was living. The authentic look of buildings and things that he used, return it to life, while the museum and theater under the open sky are used for organizing various events. Bolivar clearly not lived “evergreen life”. His life was very tumultuous and spectacular. As a great womanizer and supporter of drinks, has famously died of syphilis, liver cirrhosis and tuberculosis. What can a real Don Juan ask for more? That evening, after returning to the ship, we decided to go out with friends for dinner. A wonderful restaurant in the city center provided us, with soft music, the intimate atmosphere and an intoxicating scent of grill, promising an enjoyable bite It was ten o’clock at night when we got happily back to the ship and went to sleep.

Discovering new spaces of Caribbean coast, companionship, entertainment and dinner on the beach, have described tomorrow’s day trip to Tayrona National Park. Bus full of sailors, our friends, left the marina at eight o’clock in the morning. The park is located about 34 km away from Santa Marta, and extends from Bahia de Taganke to the mouth of the Rio Pedras. Fortunately, the ride lasted a relatively short and finally forced our guide to turned off. He drowned us with his, from Kulin Ban memorized Tayrona prehistoric story, which has recited as a poem for Mother’s Day. The narrow and winding road led through a dry wooded area to one of the most beautiful beaches on attractive coast of South America, Bahia Concha. When we arrived, the white tents and a large round tables covered with white tablecloths were already prepared. Romantic atmosphere, white sand and crystal clear waters offered the unique charm and relaxation. Peter soon found his self in the shade with a good male company, relaxing with a cool beer and quality rum, while I could not wait to throw myself into the sea. This lovely and the surrounding hills protected beach, situated in a deep bay so I carelessly enjoyed all the benefits of the sea. Regardless of the heat, that natural beauty with no time has awakened the spirit of sport, without regard for age.  While some played volleyball in the water and instead of over the network hit on the ball over the rope of motor yacht tied for the coast, others were enjoying on the sand playing cricket. Clamor, noise, winding, sacrifice and celebration of every winning point, were spreads all over the place attracting curious people who gathered in ever greater numbers. Even a few of the owners of motor boats soon found itself in the sea, throwing himself on the ball, defending the colors of the team. Princes and princesses received new modern sand castles of 21. Century, with the Internet and satellites, fortresses and tunnels, and the youngest members of our group got happy moments in the world of imagination. The day was fictional. Time passed slowly and the smell of meat and sausages from the grill began to spread through the air. Before dinner I walked along the beach. I enjoyed watching people, their relaxed and smiling faces and children how safely and happily they jump and play with the waves.   So, carried away with, I did not even notice that I have reached the end of the beach.   Returning back, my attention was attracted by a group of people gathered around a local boy who was holding something in his hand while the group excitedly watched and commented. I walked up to them to see what it was. On his palm calmly stood blue crab. That was a fantastic and beautiful example, of how he said, poisoned crab. It is obvious that he knew how to hold it in his hand without being bitten. It was carefully lowered to the sand. The moment of his confusion I used to take a picture. Tayrona beaches are very rich by underwater world, so that, walking along them, there is big opportunity to see such a large crab. I had a very pleasant chat with Dave and saying goodbye to him, I went on. The smell of barbecue lured me all over, while an empty stomach had accelerated pace. Dinner and society at the table were great. There’s a saying “where you eat, be as closer to the kitchen,” so our table had managed to win a waiter who is his benevolence, instead of one allowed, showed by serving a double portion of the cake. The mood was on the level. The main theme for teasing of male composition was about the beach that was located near us, Playa Nudist, to which it can bring only a
sombrero, mask and fins. With laughter and like Mexican salsa hot comments, pretty soon we were greeted with the whole team of the host and left the Tayrona. Driving into the bus, in the late afternoon, happy, tired and full of impressions, we returned to the marina. It was a beautiful day and socializing that we will long remember.

Days went by like hours, and brought bad weather. Because of the stormy wind and rough sea, the Office closed the marina and banned any sailing out so our stay in Santa Marta extended for one day. It serves us well to take advantage of the time to go to the center to repair Peter’s bracelet wristwatch. A
series of minor and relatively empty block streets led us to the main street in the city where we were suddenly in bustle and merged with the river of people and traffic jams that ruled on the road. Buses like pomegranate full of people, cars, trucks, motorbikes, bicycles, trolleys with one or two wheels and everything that had a chance to roll, it was part of the urban chaos. On the streets there is nothing you cannot find. While are jugglers with oranges advertised orange juice on the mobile carts, on market stalls were offered, from street food and jewelry to small sewing machines, home appliances and tools. Santa Marta is not only the city of fiery colors expressed through the way they dress and making handicraft of fabric or knitted from the thread, but also a city of contrasts. In contrast to bright windows are unsightly holes and sheds crammed with a bunch of stuff garbage on the street. The atmosphere around us was very interesting and impressive. For hours we both could stand and record this city bustle. Columbia’s cuisine is rich in a wide range of foods, flavors and fragrances, depending on the area where it is served. From simple everyday tortilla with meat, seafood and vegetables, pizzas prepared in the fire, in which we ourselves enjoyed for lunch in the afternoon, to extravagant succulent crispy fried ants, Hormiga Culone, which are prepared south of Santa Marta, in Santander Department for those daring with a stomach hard as a peasant shoe. Services for the repair of watches was on the street. Trolleys, in which stood a young Colombian, were full of watches, hands, the springs, small screws, bracelets, as well as necessary tools. While Peter waited at his watch, I walked to a nearby shoe store and bought a very favorable sandal. As the day draws to a close, we are slowly walks back to the ship. In one moment, my attention was attracted by this dustbin, which I picked up with camera, as a great idea, how to take advantage of plastic bottles and decorate the city streets.

The morning was still quite windy. The weather began to calm down only about eleven o’clock when we got permission to sailing out. Meermowe has once again successfully crossed the start line, carrying us towards the dreamy islands of Panama, San Blass. Standing on the stern, I looked at Santa Marta as in a place that gave us a fantastic and memorable experience until we passed islet El Morro.

Saint Lucia was the crossroads of major events. Here there is, on the one hand ended the second stage Meermowe Great Adventure, our first trans-atlantic crossing across the Atlantic, while on the other hand, it is the door opened for new challenges of another marine wastelands called Pacific. All our senses are poured into the pride that gave us the strength to continue and indescribable happiness eagerly anticipated encounter with our son Pedja and his beautiful partner, our dear Marika.

Journey to the Rodney Bay Marina was a mix of sailing passion, defiance and love of the sea, as well as the struggle for survival. Using stern winds, most of times we sailed part sails in a butterfly with the help of tangun. With enhanced wind and waves the first half of the travel was with no problems. The greatest thrill of why our heart almost jumped out of the chest, prepared us a huge fish that are caught on the hook, but unfortunately, with all the effort that the drag closer to the boat, we had no chance to draw it out. By all accounts, it was not a goldfish with three wishes, what it would she fulfilled if we would take her off from the menu. Rather than compromise, the monster began with all his strength haul nylon so fast until it was unrolled to the end and disappeared into the sea. In Peter’s hand is steyed only an empty reel. While we are confused and in disbelief looked at each other, we were able to say just WOW!! Can you believe it! We still very often talk about that fish as about the great secret without answer, which only the sea knows.

As the days passed, slowly we approached Saint Lucia. Weather conditions were rapidly changed. While the waves, like a monster, rised to the height of solar panels on the stern, hiding us from the horizon of other ships, the wind was blowing in some places up to 46 Beaufort. So descending down the waves in the evening, along with the sunsets, it seemed to perish in the fiery chasm of hell. It was a complicated part of the trip accompanied by problems that were popping in front of us like rabbits out of a hat. Many enjoyments have been replaced with duties and increased activities on the board. Six days prior to entering into Rodney Bay broke us the pin that connects the hydraulic cylinder automatic pilot with helm. We had to react quickly, take the helm and steer manually, which can not have been easy. Struggling with the enormous power of the waves and the wind, which caused muscle pain in the arms and back, we took turns every two hours. Original spare part we did not have, so we quickly thought about what to do. We still had two hours until dusk. I was not doubted Peter’s ingenuity and resourcefulness. While he is in the lower deck turned over the things, the lamp was turned on. With great hope and smile on his face he climbed into the cockpit carrying two new debt replacement screws. Wasting no time, regardless of the rolling and the risk of injury, my husband crawled into the back bunker. During this time I managed the boat and played the apprentice of Hlapich, adding a tool that he is sought. The operation was successful, the green light came on and the automatic pilot was again brought back to life. Now, it was only a matter of time and the uncertainty of whether and how long this screw will withstand the pressure. Everything that we had that moment was the belief in the soul and happiness in our hearts while we are together with Meermowe sunk into the dark not knowing what awaits us during the night.

Even as a little girl, the December long winter evenings in Split, I enjoyed get wet my feet in a basin with warm water, eat hot fritters, which is only mother knew to do and watch a good movie. I did not think that I’would have this image in my mind during the night when I got up to check whether everything is okay. Stepping into the salon legs were found in the water just like in the basin. The shock that I experienced bounced off the cold water and like a boomerang has alerted my brain systems I turned on the lights, immediately called my husband and by testing the water we found out that it was a drinking water, wich was somewhere widely seeped. Sink in the kitchen was the first of our investigation. When I opened the closet door, I had what I see. Through the cracked pipe was gushing water. Excluding water pump to supply water from the reservoir, we were able to stop the further influx of water. Great luck was the fact that the water had not poured in the rooms. Knocking out carpets onto the cockpit, we immediately began to pump water and dry space. In the meantime, we controlled the work of the automatic pilot and endurance of the screw. As the wind and sea mercilessly toyed with us, with minimal intervention all worked flawlessly. Morning has long arrived when we, along with the smell of coffee, sat in the cockpit to relax and rest. Just at that moment through my senses came the wonderful smell of warm fritters and who knows what would still remembered that I did not flinch at the seriousness of Peter’s voice.

That life resembles a mexican and spanish soap operas, serials without end, Rosa Salvahe, Emperatriz or Slave of Love ……., was demonstrated by the new mysterious episode whose solution we did not know where to look. Bow left cabin was completely wet as if we had a shower in it. With all this madness, I remembered the song “Shipwrecked”, which I began to hum while we browsed through all the potential sites that would eventually penetrated water. The song is very funny, and most importantly, has brought a lot of laughter and teasing among us. Since we did not find anything, we were left with only one solution, take off our decorative tapicirung from the wall, which was a real hit. Behind upholstery were hid the clutch to drain water out using bilch pump. Hose through which we were pumping water out of the salon and “thrown out into the sea”, it was separated from the coupling and hung in the air, so that the pumped water poured into the room, BINGO.  We looked through the hole right into the sea as out the window on the island of Solta, through which the waves were also penetrated into the space. We immediately attached the hose to the coupler and secure it well. Everything happened as if in a bad dream, accepting the fact that there is always worse from worse.   Once again, firmness and perseverance in achieving our dream life, have helped us to overcome everything that got in the way before us. Seeing the land of Saint Lucia, full of pride and happiness, our great success decent we celebrated with a glass of champagne.

In Rodney Bay Marina, which was the ultimate goal of our trip, we sailed in the early hours of the morning, where we were, after 2150 nm welcomed by the sound of ship sirens, cold rum punch and a large number of crew members, our friends, with other boats. Wonderful ARC staff handed us a large representative basket of tropical fruit with a bottle of the original rum. The comforts of meeting was also contributed to this guy of bright colors, who also welcomed us and wished comfortable stay on the island.

Saint Lucia is a beautiful and peaceful island surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the crystal blue Caribbean Sea on the other. Life on the island is a relaxing at a slow pace while the locals very hospitable. Volcanic in origin while the climate and the natural beauty of wooded mountains, which stretch its entire length, described as a tropical paradise. The first inhabitants were the Arawak Indians, and was named after Saint Lucy of Syracuse by the French, first inhabited by Europeans.

Due to the Christmas and New Year holidays, which were getting closer as well as Pedja’s and Marika’s arrival, time to waste really is not any, the more so we have to, to their arrival, along with repair the rudder and welding the fence, clean and washed the boat then inspect and prepare all for further journey. A list task by priority has already been made. Because of the bad experience with hydraulic automatic steering mechanism, we also decided to install automatic pilot to wind ordered from England, which it has, during further trip, proved to be the best and most valuable toy on board.

Rodney Bay is a small town with very organized shopping centers away from the marina for about fifteen minutes. On the way to the grocery store is Medical School and Aquatic Center. Chain of restaurants and cafes stretches along the marina, while every Saturday there is the market of fruit and vegetable as well as souvenirs and clothing. Everything is very expensive but the bargain purchase can be done at half the price. In those days was celebrated the National Day. The evening before it was held the National Festival of Lights in honor of Saint Lucia. That night, with quiet music and undertone singing, ceremonial procession slowly moved from ships passing through the docks of the marina, carrying on his head decorative lights and illuminated boxes of seafood, followed by fireworks. Sitting in the cockpit we enjoyed this unusual and very interesting scene.

The international airport is located in the south of Saint Lucia, Vieux Fort. It is an hour and a half away by car. Rodney Bay we left by taxi for four hours before landing, with the intention that, by the way, we visit some of the popular attractions of this part of the island. The road that we drove, led by the shore and even a little bit is not resembled motorway. It was very bumpy, winding and full of holes. We drove up and down through the mountain range and enjoy the view on small quiet villages, fertile fields of mango and avocado and everything that makes this world so different.  Many houses were built of wood and corrugated metal sheets.

The first lookout point, at which we stopped, offered a view on Marigot Bay, the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean, where was filmed the original “Dr. Dolittle” movie with Rex Harrison in the lead role. This pristine beauty is certainly far more than the holidays for eyes. Most of the population of Saint Lucia is from Africa or is of mixed African origin with deeply etched history of slavery. Their hairstyles, way of dressing and noble qualities that adorn them, largely seem them interesting and different, therefore I was photographed them with particular interest to bring them closer to all of you who sail with us through Meermowe’s Great Adventure. How the way led us all to the south, the road was becoming busier. Soufriere, at the time of French rule, the capital city of Saint Lucia, now a small fishing village, is situated in the beautiful bay at the foot of two volcanic massifs. Twins Pitons, as they are popularly called, are volcanic ranges that rise directly from the sea and are a World Heritage of Island. Covered with trees and lush vegetation while its base is rich with coral gardens. Of course, we did not miss the opportunity to visit the Diamond Waterfalls and Botanical Garden. Our time passed quickly in the pleasant company of our friend the taxi-driver. Approaching the airport excitement was increasingly growing. Flights from Atlanta landed on time. Meeting with Pedja and Marika was more than cordial and happiness knew no bounds. In Rodney Bay we returned by new road that led us to the eastern coast of the island. It was nearly eight o’clock in the evening when we arrived at the boat and with the tray full of creme-pie we welcomed the new crew of the ship Meermowe.

Wasting no time, I helped Marika to accommodate the cab and after dinner we went to bed. A visit to Castrie, the capital of St Lucia, was a treasure trove of events. The bus stop was located near the marina. Old, rusty and musty vans, with no timetable, full of people, were driving every five minute. Some of them appeared to be ramshackled and seemed as though they would fall apart before arrivel to our destination. In less than an hour we stood near the main market, between Peynier and Jeremie streets that make up the heart of the city. Due to poverty and poor living conditions that characterize it, Castries is an energetic city beautiful colonial architecture which is dominated by vivid colors and smells of food. Finding in one of such environments together with Pedja and Marika is realy great experience and enjoyment. Great Market Hall was the first place that we have peeked into. From the abundance of handicrafts, garments and paintings that surrounded us, our crew is most enjoyed in its main attraction, the food. Luckily, they were not interested in buying eggs, otherwise we should, guarantee, and a peek into the chicken coop. From a large selection of Caribbean exotic spices, opted for medium spicy yellow sauce with peppers, from which my mouth and tongue were hot that I could play the roll of dinosaur Dino. It was unthinkable to leave this place and do not buy very tasty plunger coffee and Cuban cigars. Castries has a number of restaurants. With popular dishes made from fresh fish and lobster can be found and chicken dishes, pot stew and callaloo. The street food as well as and dirty and unsanitary holes filled with aluminum cookware, in which food are prepared, can be delicious and also served as in restaurants, although it does not look like that. We passed these narrow streets full of scents and tables, as Pedja says “if it’s more black and miserable that would be better because it is only way to experience the city.”  At the end of the street we sat at the table of a small “restaurant” to kill thirst. While we waited for the order drinks, we ordered, Pedja went to the toilet. After a long time, we saw him in a hurry toward the fence and laughing to tears, carrying an enormous bucket to grabbed seawater over the fence and washed after using the toilet. “Do it yourself” system has always provided great satisfaction. The toilet was so unsightly and small that everything what could fit in, was the toilet bowl and that bucket. We choked with laughter looking at him, while the owner of the restaurant deeply thanked him. If we had a little bit more rest, “enjoying the city’s soul,” he might offer him the job, you never know. Wherever he goes, Pedja has alwalys something funny to happen, it was only a matter of time. The hours passed quickly in a pleasant chat and laughter.

The old town is full of interesting things. Picturesque streets are full of people, while Derek Walcott Square is decorated with colorful buildings and borders the largest church in the Caribbean, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Interior of the cathedral is dominated by paintings by local artists. Life city also gives cheerful rhythm of the songs performed by street singers.  Late afternoon, happy, tired and cooked from the heat, squeeze we drove into the van to Rodney Bay. On the way to the place we passed local airport whose runway extends close to the cemetery.   What enjoyment!! We got off the bus in the center of Rodney Bay with the intention to buy a few things for the boat. Before the entrance to the supermarket, black guy who was bearing the shirt of the Croatian national football team, attracted us. No, we were not dreaming, the
national shirt with red and white cubes in the Caribbean, it was a surprise miracle. The guy was cool. Jersey got from his friend from Croatian and was delighted to take a picture with us. The world indeed seems to be less than we can imagine. With several bags in hands we returned to the ship.

The next morning, we set sail for Martinique, French paradise in the Caribbean. The weather was hot and windy. Marika was outstanding sailor. She quickly learned all the jobs on the boat. While Pedja enjoyed the role of skipper, she was our little from deck. With great pleasure I watched how she worked with ropes, preparing the fenders, lowered and lifted anchor and with the same passion and a smile on the face was scrubbing the deck, which is, certainly not strode past. Palm trees, volcanoes, french bread baguette and a croissant filled with chocolate, about which Marika was dreaming since arrival, certainly is definition of this modern and elegant island. It abounds in beautiful beaches, turquoise sea, distinctive vegetation and friendly residents. The island was discovered by Christofor Columbo, while Saint-Pierre, first established a settlement on the island, birthplace of Napoleon’s wife Josephine. In the distant past here lived cannibals called “Wicked Caribbean”. Using crosswind, Meermowe carried us with wind full sails on the course to the capital Fort-de-France and the corresponding Marina Poudrier, about 40 miles away from Rodney Bay. Rough sea and strong wind were disturbed our sailor and spoil her biorhythm and after a slight vomit, she looked like a canary Leopold in the run from the cat Tom, so the salvation was found in the bed where she’d rather dream about croissants. In the marina we sailed in the afternoon. Scrubbing the deck and landscaping ship was more effective than rum and our navigator came back to life.

Fort-de-France is a commercial center and largest city in Martinique. It is located at the end of a huge bay. Colonial narrow “gallery” streets characterize it. Wrought iron balconies, attractive fortress, Cathedral of Saint-Louis and Schoelcher Library, reveal the historical, while flowers decorated Savannah Park, romantic atmosphere. Already the next morning, we drove a taxi to the city center and followed up on the morning of seductive scents that spread from the bakery. Our infallible compass led us right to the original french croissants, mmmmmm … filled with chocolate. By the way, we bought two baquettes, which we planned to bring to the boat what was remained just a theory. Like gingerbread, they were simply melted in the mouth. We bought a few items in the shopping center, and headed back with the intention to sail to the bay on the other side, where we anchored. The beach that had stretched some distance from the ship, was simply attracted us, so Marika and I were decided to swim that part while Pedja has followed us by dinghy. We felt like on Hawaii. The warm sea and white sand are completely conquered us. While Pedja and Marika enjoyed in their own little world I watched the turtles at the bottom of the sea and emerged a beautiful starfish. Enjoyment and happiness knew no bounds as well as comedy and laugh as much as you like when was Pedja taught Marika drive dinghy. She was hurtling rapidly as Nicki Lauder in Formula 1, leaving a large furrow. Where they went no more turtle was gone. It is wonderful to have them on board, Peter and I were thought happily. Christmas was celebrated with a gala dinner, drinks and cake, enjoying the romantic sounds of the saxophone. With lunch in the restaurant the next day, we planned our further journey to the far south of the island, in Le Marin. At anchorage of Marine Le Marin, we sailed late in the afternoon where we decided to spend the night. Left to fishing pleasures, my husband is, that night was speed caught 12 fish the size of 250 grams. Serial were coming out one after another, as if they are competing which will take the bait before. We are all looked forward to tomorrow’s lunch, which was finger licking.  New Year, we welcome on board in a happy and singable atmosphere. Loud music, which echoed from Meermowea, attracted the neighboring sailors who were passing by, peering at us ship in curiosity to see what was happening. Marika and I danced until two hours after midnight, after which we went to sleep.

A seductive charm of the surrounding hills have inspired us, the next morning, rented a car and take a peek into their interior. A winding road led us through small picturesque villages, Gros-Morne, Saint-Joseph and Ducos, suitable for the cultivation of pineapple plantations, whose fields stretch as far as the sea, sugar cane and bananas. While the mountains are covered with tropical forests, the coast is decorated with beautiful bays. City of La Trinite extends to Caravelle peninsula and is the most beautiful part of the island of Martinique. On the way back we stopped in the small town of Sainte-Anne, which simply exudes french charm, to enjoy his most famous and one of, arguably, the most beautiful beaches in the Western Indis, Les Salines. We simply were melted like ice cream in the sun in this divine and romantic scene.

A visit to the Island of Martinique we ended up going to the diving, which was the crown of our tour. At that moment, I wished that time stops. It was the experience and excitement that will be long remembered. The next morning we set sail from the marina and a short time, we stayed close to one of the nearby beaches for a bit more swimming and enjoyment in the sea, after which
we left the island and sailed to Saint Lucia. In Rodney Bay we sailed in the afternoon. It was dawned the day of parting of our crew. It was difficult for us to look at their backs, while the taxi drove to the airport and increasingly more disappeared from our sight. Time spent with Pedja and Marika was, believe me, far more than this post. Upon returning to the ship, we continued with preparations for our next destination. Still we were only four days separated from start to Santa Marta in Columbia.